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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:42 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
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Location: Redding, CA
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The long bolts that hold the manifolds together always snap. I am trying to find new bolts to put my manifolds together. As far as I can tell, the 5/16" bolts need to be 3.5" long to stick out the bottom so you can bolt on your linkage bracket and carb warmer.

Problem is, the bolts are only threaded on the bottom 1", so you can't thread them all the way through. Where do you find a bolt (grade 8?) that is 3.5" long and has at least 1.5 - 2" of thread?

I called three auto parts stores and two fastener places, none have one. The fastener places said they could order bolts that long with threads all the way, but I would have to order 50.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:46 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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By the way, if I have to order these online somewhere, what is the proper name/specs of the threads?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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H'mmm. I've never had any problem getting my manifold bolts at an ordinary, well-stocked hardware store, me.

You may want to see if what you want can be had at Small Parts Inc..

I like to use stainless steel in this location.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
http://www.mcmaster.com/

http://www.boltdepot.com/

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:55 pm 
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RDJ - When I was running stock manifolds I just used hardware store grade 8 bolts and tapped then the rest of the way myself. It will take a while though, use plenty of oil and back it out every turn or so.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:08 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
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Location: Redding, CA
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Thanks for the replies. I ordered some stainless steel tapping (all threads) bolts from bolt depot. I swear, I tried every auto parts store, fastener supply store, and harware, they all had the same story, all their bolts were only threaded the first inch, and none carried the tapping bolts. The machine shop at the auto parts said it would be hard to continue the thread without messing it up and didn't want to do it.

After I ordered the bolts from bolt depot, I found a good machine shop in town, and they did a great job of continuing the threads, and did it for free. I then ordered some custom brackets from them I need to mount my modern retractable 3-point seat belts into my car.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:21 am 
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Interesting, will you document the seatbelt project and show us how you've done it, maybe with photos?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:57 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
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Location: Redding, CA
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Interesting, will you document the seatbelt project and show us how you've done it, maybe with photos?
No problem. One thing though, the 73 I am working on already had the top anchor point above the door, so I didn't have to fab one in. The original shoulder portion of the belt was the type you had to clip into the belt, hence, not retractable. I wouldn't have worn it if I had to unclip it everytime I needed to bend forward.

One funny thing about the car I have. It looked like the shoulder harness had been cut, so they SAFETY PINNED IT BACK TOGETHER. I wonder if those safety pins were rated to 60 mph collisions.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Those bolts were broken on my SuperSix manifold, so I just drilled them out and used longer stainless bolts and nuts.


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