Hello im rebuilding a 7.25 rear and i need to know if i need any special tools or anything like that or can i do it with simple hand tools and a foot/lbs. ratchet

thanks

You'll need a big wrench and a big hammer to get the pinion out. Those things are the worst part. It's nice to break loose the pinion nut before taking the wheels and brake off.

You'll also want the special wrench for removing the ring gear carrier. Follow me on this, the tool has a long handle (several feet long) that you stick in once the axle is removed. The head of the tool allows you to remove the bearing adjusters for the carrier by screwing them out into the axle tubes.

This wasn't at all what I was expecting when I started rebuilding my 7 1/4 rear a few months ago. I think I saw the tool for this on ebay not very long ago. It would be very helpful, or you might try to find a place to rent the tool from.

I was able to use a screwdriver to back out the adjusters, but I would not do it again since it was very difficult to keep from mangling the threaded portion of the adjuster this way.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

ebay item #8040878733

This isn't my auction and I don't know the seller, but it sure looks like the tool.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

You can make the tool. The hex on the end is 1 3/8 inches. I think a "B" or "C" body torsion bar has that size hex. What I have is an "A" body torsion bar, with a 1 3/8 hex nut welded to one end. Just stick that end in the axle tube and turn the hex on the other end with a wrench. You should also have a dial indicator to set the backlash. A pinion setting gauge is nice, but you can set the pinion depth by doing a tooth pattern check (trial and error).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charlie, what's the nominal size of that nut?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Pretty sure, it is a 1" course thread. But the size is not important. Just go to a "nut & Bolt" store an get any size nut with a 1 3/8 hex.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

This is another question about rebuilding the 7.25 rear. I have a 74 I am looking at doing a gear change and bearing job on. I do not have a manual for it. I used to have a 65 dart and I remember the factory manual saying something about spreading the opening in the housing with a jig and using a dial indicator to make sure it is not stretched too far. This was to get the carrier out. Is this still the case with the 70's 7.25" rears? If it really turns into a hassle and expense I will start looking for a 8.25 and avoid any issues. Thanks for any insight.

No, the later 7 1/4 units have the backlash adjusters that use the 1 3/8 (C-Body) torsion bar tool as noted above.
Early 7 1/4 assemblies used shims to set the backlash and carrier bearing preload. These were the units that needed the "spreader" so you can get the shims in with ease...me, I just tap the shims in with a hammer!
DD

Thanks for the reply. It sounds like a easy rear to setup. I don't have a torsion bar laying around but I can weld up a nut and old socket to a shaft. Now I just need to hunt up some street gears in the 3.23 range.