Sorry I haven't been able to post much lately!

I've been trying to install a Pioneer cassette player #KEH-2929 in my 'ol Ram. I bought the radio new about 10 years ago, and installed it in another car. When I sold that car, I put the factory radio back in and put Pioneer on the shelf in the garage for later (and, of course, mislaid the manual for it).

When the factory radio (well actually a Chrysler radio from the late 80s) in my '82 Ram died recently, I got out that Pioneer and installed it in my truck.

Problem is, it plays fine for a while, then starts making humming and/or staticy sounds, then gets real quiet or makes a "pop" sound and quits completely. It stays lit up, just no sound. If I turn it off for awhile and then turn it back on, it plays for a minuite or two and then does the same thing.

I think I may have the speakers hooked up wrong, but not sure. The non-speaker part of the wiring is pretty obvious:

Red- main power, B+ with ignition switch on.
Orange- clock/station memory, B+ at all times.
Black- ground
Blue- power out with radio on, for amplifier or power antenna (not used)

It's the speaker wiring that has me befuddled. here's what's there and how I think it's supposed to be hooked up; but I may have it wrong:

Green- left rear speaker
Green w/Red stripe- right rear speaker
Green w/Black stripe- ground for both rear speakers
Gray- left front speaker
Gray w/Red stripe- right front speaker
Gray w/Black stripe- ground for front speakers

I've only got two speakers, so I don't have any gray wires hooked up.

Anyone see what I did wrong? should I have the two speakers hooked up to seperate grounds instead of the same one? Is the radio just shot? (it played fine in the other car) Any body have a manual for a same or similar Pioneerradio laying around?

Help!

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Brian (Valianator)

'65 Valiant V100 170/T-flite
'82 D150 225/4-speed
'65 Dart 225 4 door
'68 Dart 225 4-door with Valiant front clip (future project)

I have never seen a radio use a common negative wire for two speakers, but I have never installed an aftermarket radio that was made earlier than ~1990 either.

I checked Pioneer's website, and did not see an online manual.

If you are only running two speakers, you might try running one speaker off two wires from the front output, and the other on two wires from the rear output.

-S/6

Well, I'm not an audio expert but I do have some experience with electronics. It sounds to me like you have an intermittent connection that is either opening or shorting as it warms up. It could be something as simple as a cold solder joint or it could be a flaky component such as an electrolytic capacitor that has deteriorated in storage. Some compnents, electrolytics in particular, like to be exercised and when stored are more likely to stay in good condition if stored with a charge. Of course, that isn't always possible.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I have seen a common wire for 2 stereo speakers.

Just don't remember if it was a positive or negative.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It shoudln't matter whether the ground is common or positive is common, so long as both sides are wired the same. (i.e. the common wire goes to the same termianl on both sides, and the other two wires go to their respective sides) All the polarity determines is phasing, and even if they're both 180* out of phase, you'll never notice a difference until you put a properly phased speaker in the system. It sounds to me like you have a short somewhere in your harness. Other than that, I'd say your head unit has gone south.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

The fact it works OK for awhile means the wiring is probably right; most likely you've an electrolytic capacitor going bad inside from age, or an internal connection that's flaky and heating up.

Often that connection may actually be inside a chip.

I've not found it cost effective to fix aftermarket radio, but if you want to take a stab at it, open it up and run it on a bench at look at the voltage at the main amplifier chip or transistor - if it drops, look for a bad electrolytic cap; if it remains constant, check the chip or transistor.

A drying electrolytic will usually get "better" as it warms up, not worse.
I believe you have an audio output chip that is dying as it warms up.

A can of freeze spray (from Radio Shack or electronics parts house) will troubleshoot the problem nicely, but other comments are correct when they say that this is all disposable now. That's why I left consumer electronics repair a decade ago, after 20+ years in the industry. Cheaper to toss it out and buy new than to fix it.




-Mac

Well, thanks for all the tips everyone.

I tried reversing the polarity on one speaker (in case I'd mistakenly hooked them up opposite in the first place) and tried one on a front channel, one on a rear channel.

No difference either way.

Bummer .

Mabey I'll see what's fresh at the salvage yard this weekend

Thanks again for the help.

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Brian (Valianator)

'65 Valiant V100 170/T-flite
'82 D150 225/4-speed
'65 Dart 225 4 door
'68 Dart 225 4-door with Valiant front clip (future project)

it sounds like you have a ground loop problem. Try moving the ground. ALso you can hook up both the front and rear channel together. YOu are then in parrel. what this does it drops the ohms. we do it all the time with subs because it doubles the amp out put

Possible, but I doubt it. You do it with subs because the amp is designed to do it (and you're only running one set of inputs). Most head units don't give you this option; all four inputs are hardwired into the internal amp and connecting your front and rear channels will be a quick recipe for some nasty sounds and an overloaded amp.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I completely agree. Even subwoofer amplifiers are easy to blow up by connecting speakers in parallel if the amplifier is not rated to handle the lower ohm rating. Stock and no aftermarket head units that I am aware of are capable of handling the resulting 2 ohm impedance from running door/dash speakers in parallel.

-S/6

all after market speacker a 8ohm you will only drop it down to 4 this is ok

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

No. With all due respect, you don't seem to understand what you're saying in the slightest. If people listen to you, they /will/ break things. (And yes, I took time to think of the most delicate way to put that.)

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion