Has anyone heard of or used a product called Thermagasket for sealing head gaskets? It's a 2 part epoxy that you pour in the cooling system and costs about $100 from www.rxauto.com

I had trouble with my aluminum block 225 this summer when I noticed water in the oil. A retorquing of the cylinder head seems to have fixed the problem and resealed the copper gasket.

My brother-in-law wasn't so lucky with his turbocharged 5 cylinder Volvo. The dealer wanted $2600 to replaced the head gasket so instead he bought Thermogasket, followed the instructions, and it seems to be working for him. You must wash out all antifreeze before using and it takes 400 miles of driving to fully set before replacing the antifreeze.

I'm keeping the info in case I have trouble again, but I'm wondering what experiences people have had with this product.

I used it once in a Dodge Neon it worked for a few weeks and then the engine died completely. Dont know if it may work on some and not others. IMHO you should just repair the problem correctly the first time.
Hope this helps.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Sounds like a BandAid on cancer to me.

_________________
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Fords.

'64 Valiant 100 '66 Dodge A100

Using any kind of pour-in gookum in an attempt to "fix" a head gasket leak is guaranteed to buy you a great deal more trouble and expense than you started with. Don't!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Anything like that is just glueing the leak shut from the water jacket side, if it works at all. As soon as the engine gets hot and expands or the engine is under load and builds some pressure it is going to let go. The worst will be if it just leaks a little for a long time, the engine will run ok while the cylinder (cylinders) are getting the oil steam cleaned out of them. It will really screw up the rings and wear the bore and piston. My opinion, the only real fix is the least expensive and you will have to do it anyway, find a factory or correct aftermarket head gasket and fix it once. Make sure the surfaces are actually flat and the right finish. If your head bolts seem stretchy get new ones. By correct gasket I mean NOT copper. Ok for a drag only car, but not really suited for the street or any endurance engine. I believe (actually I'm real sure) they always leak a little. The one copper thing I have had great success with is copper coat spray sealer both on steel shim and uncoated composition head gaskets. Cut your losses by just fixing it. The copper gasket may very well have been the only problem.

Something strange going on with the multiple posting. I'm closing my browser and that should stop it.

If you can find any. And if you do, lemme know where you got them.

_________________
vm

Remember, the correct gasket for the aluminum engine is a laminated copper/composite (originally copper/asbestos) item.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Does the engine in question have the original type gasket or a solid copper one? I would stay away from solid copper if at all possible, if you do more than just race the car.

I don't know what kind of head gasket the Volvo has, but my aluminum block /6 uses a required composite/copper gasket as supplied by Mopar and noted in the FSM to properly seal the head to the block.