My heat control valve is froze up. My manual says that I need solvent (part #1879318) to loosen it up and to keep it working freely. Is there something down at Schucks/NAPA that I can buy that will do the same thing? Probably just WD-40?

Also, what is the differenct between the heat control valve and the heat riser? I can't find a "heat riser" in my tech manual... does mine have one? Most of the threads that I ran across during a search mention the riser.

Sorry about the newbie questions.

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Billy Wilson
1965 Valiant 225

The heat riser is at the base of the exhaust manifold. It directs hot exhaust against the bottom of the intake manifold right below the carburetor when the engine is cold to improve warm-up.

The heat control valve opens and closes the water to the heater core, which provides heat for the passenger compartment. It's inline with one of the heater hoses that lead to the firewall.

Hope this helps!

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vm

The very best stuff to spray on the heat riser valve shaft to free it up is indeed the Mopar solvent, part number 4318-039AB. Liquid Wrench and other conventional penetrants won't do as good or as long-lasting a job of freeing up the valve, so go to the dealer parts counter and buy this stuff.

WD40 is useless for this or any other task...one of the longest-running scams ever perpetrated on the buying public!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

you're trying to take down ALL the occidental values and way of life, man! WD 40 is a very good cleanser for some tasks, it really frees up SOME rust (I've been working with horns for more than 20 years and that "useless" WD40 has saved my white behinf so many times I can't even begin to recall each) and is excellent when you have sunk your distributer under water for displacing it and make everything work again. I think yu should start trying'n say "I don't like it" instead of "xxx brand is garbage"... or "clifford has done ________ (fill in the blanks) to me" otherwise a board like this where the point is learning from exchanging information with other individuals with other experiences will start to go south. I take that you never used WD40 for, instead, drying up a wet clutch disk that's slipping, or drum brake pads noise and cristalization reduction... huh?

EVERY brand and product you particulary hate ain't plain garbage, so for other persons sake I vote for you to start referring to personal experiences instead of lay it down like "the cold facts of life"

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Weird. My plymouth tech manual calls this the manifold heat control valve.

Either way, that's what I'm working on. I got the counterweight and coil spring off, and did my best with a high temp silicon to loosen the valve shaft, but it was a no go. I will go down tomorrow... wait... that's thanksgiving... make that Friday, and pick up the mopar stuff.

If that doesn't work, am I screwed? It looks like the only way to access it would be to take off the carb/intake manifold. Not something that I feel too comfy doing right now.

She runs fine now, once she's warmed up... it's just the warming up part that's buggin me. Should I rub her shoulders?

Thanks for the help.

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Billy Wilson
1965 Valiant 225

Given how many times they've changed the formula up here mostly to comply with environmental regulations, it wouldn't surprise me to learn you've got a significantly different recipe available down there.
The stuff up here doesn't even work well for that.
Naw, that wouldn't be any fun. Remember, even garbage has its uses!
Either you're havin' fun with me here, or your WD-40 is even more different from ours than I thought!
I think the people who read this board are generally smart enough to understand content vs. tone in context.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's not a penetrant and wasn't intended to be one. It works well for cleaning some kinds of sticky, gummy residue and I use it as a honing oil with a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of plate glass.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That is its official name. "Heat riser valve" is a colloquial/popular term.
Silicon/silicone formulations are not a good choice for working with parts that get this hot -- they will cook back into grit/sand/crust and stick the parts even worse. See if you can use brake or carburetor cleaner to flush away the silicone stuff you've sprayed on. As a note, it's usually not necessary to disassemble the valve in order to apply solvent to it. You can usually reach both shaft/bushing interfaces with the straw extension on your spray can with the valve left intact, and leaving the valve intact gives you a handle to grab onto and turn when you're working the seized shaft loose
Well, you've got a lot of time/work in front of you between "now" and "screwed". Apply the Mopar solvent (part № 4318039AC, do not substitute), tap both ends of the shaft along the shaft's axis with as heavy a hammer as you can swing in the confined space (watch out on the backswing so you don't accidentally hit any of the electrical terminals on the firewall or starter with your hammer!), apply some more solvent, tap some more, let it sit, apply some more, tap some more, try and rotate the shaft, etc. Once you get it rotating even just a little bit, you're effectively home free; all you have to do is keep applying solvent, tapping and turning until it frees the rest of the way up and flushes the carbon deposits out of the shaft/bushing junction.
Correct.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

True. But they're hawking it as a penetrant...right on the can:


Now both of these uses, I'll buy. But the closest it's ever come for me (OK, Juan? ) to being a serious auto-service tool is when I used it to soften and remove some masking tape residue from the inside of a windshield years ago.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

WD-40 works great as an under-hood detailer for rubber hoses, spark plug wires, ect. It keeps the rubber black, and doesn't make a sticky mess. It also works good as a back-up drill press oil!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Ooops , didn't stop and think that we could have indeed diffrent formulas... hehehehe....

the stuff we got here is good, OK, was good 20 years ago. I purchased one small barrel (20 liters) of the thing to soak up saxes (in 1980... hehehehe that's why I don't have any hair! hehehehe ) and I've been using that stuff over all this years.

good for cleaning chrome parts too... like valve covers, etc as bigblockbanjo says, plus bumpers, chrome wheels,

and the one that we get down here in spray cans is superb for drying out clutches... But I do tend to stock cans of "vintage" car products that I use as long as they have propellent

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Silicone spray's much better for this task, 'cause it does all that without degrading the rubber as WD40 and other petroleum-based products do.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ditto on that Dan. I meant(and should have said) that it works in a pinch.
If your cruise-in is at Sonic in 5 min. and a can of WD-40 is in the back,
it works great!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

I use WD-40 for finding intake manifold leaks..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

After a few days of fidgeting, I have finally got the heat riser to budge.

It is not moving freely at the moment, but I'm not done fussin with it yet.

I am curious as to whether I should leave the counterweight against the stop pin for the time being or not. Would this leave it open or closed?

I imagine that until it is totally freed up, I should keep it closed so that I don't cause a vapor lock(?) once everything is warmed up?

Thanks.

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Billy Wilson
1965 Valiant 225