O.K. guys, I've been reading around, and have a few questions for the "Slant Smart" folks!

I've been looking at headers, and Hookers look nice, but.....
Can I do the Dutra Duals myself? Or do I send them somewhere?
What do they cost? I have more time than money, so I'm looking for another option.
Secondly, I'm worried about my oil pump. The kit I ordered comes with a Melling "stock" pump. I'm aware of the issues with so-called stockers.
My question is, should I do the block mod that shoots oil straight at the pump? Or can I just run 10W-30 and be fine? Can I change the spring in the pump? put my old spring in it?
Any help would be appreciated!!
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Doug will sell you a front half and show you how to make a rear half I'm sure.

What issues are you afraid of with a stock pump? I run stock pumps on most of my junk without problems.

I did have Doug blueprint the one on my good motor now though.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks, 'Zilla!
Do you know how much $ for the duals? Is it worth the trouble, or would you just put some Hookers on it and run? I don't need manifold heat, I need torque.
I heard that the aftermarket stock oil pumps are harder on the gear than Mopar stock pumps, maybe I read wrong.
Happy Thanksgiving!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

My take on what I read about the issue is that it is a combination of inadequately hardened gears on the newer pump combined with higher gear loads due to increased volume and pressure in the newer designs. Aftermarket replacement pumps, even those sold as "stock" replacements have a deeper pocket and thicker gear set which increases the pressure on the gear interface. There is an article about the issue in the articles section and the above is my take on what it says. Doc is the guy with more definitive knowledge though.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

The only definitve answer I have ever found on the gear failure was that whoever was producing certain cam cores was hobbing the gears on incorrectly, and even that was sketchy at best. Most failures occurred with Mopar cams.

Doug will probably pop in here before the weekend is over and enlighten us.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

As far as Dutra Duals vs. headers: Definitely Dutra Duals!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As for a the oil pump isue im with Bagel on this one I run a stock pump and 5w30 Mobil 1 50 lbs at idle. But idle on my car is about 1500 rpm. And it goes to about 55 at 6200 rpm. No oil issues. Most if not all gear failure happened with the MOPAR cam. Thanks Ron Parker










It Aint Over Until I Win

"mopar"? Do you mean the stock cams, or aftermarket mopar cams?

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Cams that came from Mopar Performance. The .528 was the worst offender, but there were failures with cams from other companies too.

I am still using the same oil pump that failed in my first motor on a .528 Mopar cam. I had Doug blue-print it and install the hardened gear. I have had it on a new Comp Cam and a used Clifford. After 3 seasons it still looks like new. It started life as a $32.95 Autozone 5 bolt pump. It lasted 4 seasons on the original Racer Brown cam, and 800 miles (3 weeks) on the .528.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

You mention cams supplied by Mopar Performance, and also one from Comp in your motor.... A few years back, I heard that Mopar Perf cams actually WERE made by Comp!

So I can run a Melling pump on my engine, and not worry about it?
I'm regrinding my stock cam, so that end is O.K.
Should I just put my old pump back on? It's in decent shape, but it has some loose clearances in the rotor. The Melling rotor is 1/4in thicker.
Could I put the spring from the old pump in the new one?
I'll probably pull the pump at every oil change for a little while.

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Mopar cams come from the lowest bidder. Blanks for the cams come from only one or two places, the cam grinders do not build their own.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Is this a race car with out fenderwells. Thanks Ron Parker













It Aint Over Until I Win

Nope...Full bodied. O.K., now that I think about it, maybe I won't take a peek at every oil change. I guess I'll pull the distributor?

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb