i've had my 73 dart swinger for a while now and some times when i turn it off it "diesels" but it doesn't always do it. and does any one know what the factory redline on a 225 was? also has any one heard of there being a reason for 9" droms on front and 10" on back?

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it just keeps running.

redline on a slantsix with stock spring is 4500rpms if there in good shape ,as for the drums its probable the cheaps and minimun size needed.on the dieseling give her a good tuneup a change all filters its probable just carbon on the plugs or a sticky throtle, good luck.

Greetings, welcome to the board.

You will want to buy the three books described in this thread. They will help get you up to speed on understanding your car's systems and symptoms and how to work on them.

Dieseling is caused by excessive combustion chamber temperature. Improper ignition timing, carboned-up combustion chambers, engine running too hot (for any reason from an improper thermostat or gunked-up cooling system to a restricted exhaust system or vacuum leaks), improper or dirty or incorrectly-installed spark plugs...go through this list and find the problem, and the dieseling will go away. Until it does, switch off the engine before shifting out of "Drive" or "Reverse", so that there's some load on the engine when you turn off the key, and the engine will stop right away.

BG 44K or Chevron Techron Concentrate are the only two bottled gookums worth messing with to clean up the combustion chambers without removing the head. The technique is to add one or the other (my preference is for 44k) to a tank of fuel. If serious cleanup is needed, add two bottles/cans. Drive around normally until the tank's almost empty, then go out on the highway, get up to 65 or 70 mph, find an uphill section, shift into 2nd gear and floor the accelerator. You'll see a great cloud of brown crud fly out the tailpipe. When it stops, shift back to Drive and cruise for awhile. Repeat a few times. Then head home and replace the spark plugs. This "Italian Tuneup" sounds crude and silly, but you can get rid of a lot of combustion chamber carbon that way.

Spark plugs: best results with NGK number ZFR5N (stock number 3459), gapped to 0.035", with the metal ring washers removed!. You'll need a 5/8" spark plug socket to install these, and you'll also want to put in a set of spark plug tube seals (the rubber O-rings that seal the aluminum spark plug tubes to the cylinder head), because these get "cooked" and cause oil leaks. B45384 will get you a spark plug tube seal at NAPA (you'll need to order six). Or, you can get a set of six from Fel-Pro under P/N ES12794.

10" drums on the rear and 9" on the front means the car was originally equipped iwth 9" drums all around, and somebody swapped the rear axle assembly without paying attention to brake size. Be careful, this setup can cause premature rear-wheel lockup on hard braking. Do you have that problem at all? Find some empty pavement and check it out before an emergency happens!

Redline: Depends on what you mean by "redline". There is no published figure, though various numbers are thrown around as common knowledge. You're probably not going to break the engine, but what exactly do you want to know here?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I use stock springs and valves in a non-stock application it has wound up to 6200 rpm without loss of keepers or springs...but you have to have the right combination to make that work(low gears, 4 barrel), the stock 1 barrel carb and stock gearing won't get you up to that level...

-D.Idiot

the engine won't diesel at all right after i change the carb (1 bbl) it starts it after a few weeks of use, i've had to replace the remanded holly a few times, about once a year, the throttle shaft starts to leak vacuum. It's a 75' motor i pulled from a junk yard so any info on that would be nice. I also wanted to know the red line because i put a tach in it and want to know what it's safe to push the motor to, it fells like it's out of breath at at 3000 rpm.

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it just keeps running.

It's not your fault, "remanufactured" carburetors are trash—you will likely never get the car to run right until you put a good carburetor on it. That is either a brand-new one (I have a few left) or an unmolested, never-"remanufactured" original unit that has been fully refurbished by a craftsman skilled at the art.

The same goes for pretty much all other parts you can buy in "remanufactured" form at the parts store. Junk, junk, junk.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

were could i get a new one barrel carb or a two barrel manifold.

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it just keeps running.

Send me a PM.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.