EOS = Engine Oil Supplement. GM dealer parts counters are a fairly easy source of it. It contains high levels of Zinc extreme-pressure additives that ease cam break-in.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yep A racing friend put in a new comp cam and wiped a lobe right off of it. Called Comp Cams and they asked did he break in with Rottla oil nope. They said that was the cause they recomnded rotell oil. I would go with the EOS or what the Cam maker says. Thanks Ron Parker. PS I have that same new cam profile for another engine.








It Aint Over Until I Win

Here is a great product for flat tappet cams

http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail ... rtID=12697

And read this
http://www.hughesengines.com/general/te ... ID=1000039


If you want to go even further with it get the Joe Gibbs racing oil, but it aint cheap. But it is extremly good.

Watch the Rottella oil, its good but the oil is going to change, I dont when or if it has already but look to see the specs on the oil when you buy it. The Hughs artical in the link above will explain so you will know what to look for. If its still the old formula the Rottella is very good to.


Jess

Rotella is good oil....I wasn't aware that they were changing the formula.
That's what we use as "secondary" oil. We use Schaeffer as the top-notch stuff. Check it out: http://www.schaefferoil.com
They do alot of super-heavy duty applications, It's what we use in Drag/Pulling Tractors, Farm and Transportation applications. Pulling tractor has a 462 ci.diesel, solid cam with 320-ish seat pressure, run all summer on same oil(50 wt): it's slick as it was when we put it in. Still has it's green color. If you live around West Tenn. I can get it if you want, my grandfather is a dealer. 55, 30 gal. drum, or 12-1 qt. case. Slick stuff...It's what I'll be running in my Slant. Quaker State and Havoline are crap, trust me. Just pull the top-end off any motor that has run it for an extended period of time.
Mobile 1 is pretty good, but I don't think it's as flat-tappet "friendly" as others.

BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

OK,NOW IM WORRIED,I broke in my comp cams264s cam with standard 10w-30 and changed after the initial break in,after reading this post I went back and read the instructions and there was no mention of Rotella to be used for break in.I installed this cam two years ago but the car hasnt been put on the road yet and has about 5 hours of tuning time including a few short blasts up and down the road about an 1/8 mile at a time.I used Doc's procedure on breaking in the cam and it seems to be running fine.I will be changing the oil to Castrol Tection 15w-40,should I add the GM EOS TO IT AT THIS OIL CHANGE,it says on the bottle that it is for assembly only but the Car Craft article on breaking cams seems to suggest adding it the the oil. Suggestions and help AS ALWAYS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Add the EOS at every oil change, or you can just run the Rottella. The Rottella is what you should run any, all the time. Break in is important but the flat tappet cams will still wear out if they dont have the Zink in the oil you run even after the break in.


What we need is someone to come up with a good Hydrolic Rollor cam for the Slant Six & all this oil problems woud be a thing of the past. But I dont see that happening so we will have to keep running special oils if we are going to run flat tappet cams. I guess its a pain in a way to have to deal with the oil problem but the Solid cams do give more power so its worth the head ache.


Jess

LUCKY 13,the Castrol Tection is high zinc diesel oil,I run it in my original 63 Dart 170 engine and it does quite well.
Question is,can there be too much zinc in the oil?
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

In my 60+ years I've seen all kinds of claims about this or that miracle additive. The latest seem to be PTFE and zinc. I've always believed that an engine properly maintained according to the manufacturers specs using quality products would give long and satidfactory service. PTFE ( Slick 50 ) is unquestionably snake oil and in fact the FTC has said that their advertising is misleading, if not fraudlent. The fact is that Teflon ( PTFE ) in suspension not only provides no long term benefit in wear reduction, it can actually clog the engine and increase the formation of sludge.

Zinc additives are less clear. Some amount of zinc is beneficial in preventing wear in extreme cases of metal to metal contact ( a rare occurence in normal operation ) but too much can cause valve deposits and may contribute to premature failure of catalytic converters. Virtually all motor oils have significant zinc content with extreme duty oils such as those intended for racing or deisel use having the most. Mobil 1 contains just over 1000 ppm of zinc which is about the average for standard duty lubricants. Amsoil has about 1600 ppm and some racing oils as much as 2000 ppm.

I looked at GM's EOS and it looks to me that it is intended to be and assembly prelube, unless there's another product I didn't find. I may well get that and use it as such and I may even run it in the oil for the first 2 or 3 change cycles but unless someone can give me convincing evidence that I really need something different I will probably just use a high quality convention or synthetic motor oil with regular change intervals.

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/snake-oil.htm#four

I found several other sources of similar information but this was the clearest and most comprehensive. I want to do what is best for the engine but I don't want to dump excess $$$ into Auto Zone's recycle tank unnecessarily.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.