Well after tuning up my car yesterday it stopped running. The gas is almost black,and it has gummed up the new reman. holley 1 bbl. I was trying to do the fuel line mod to get it running,and the inlet to the carb snapped and now there is a crack in the carb(The previous owner bought the carb,before I bought the car.)

So I need a new fuel tank,fuel lines,sending unit,and carb.


Questions:

Am I able to use a tank and lines for a 1970 Duster? I want to do this because it is 18 gallons,and does not have any emissions crap. Will I need new tank straps?

Should I go with the 3/8's line or is it overkill for the slant? I plan to hot rod the car later on(hoping for 225-275 HP) but it will stay stock for a while.

Since I have to buy a new carb anyway,I was thinking I would just go ahead and upgrade now. Is there any 4 bbl. carb that I could detune to run on a stock slant,then retune it for when I build the engine?

Which intake should I use? I dont need carb heat,and plan on using headers. Like I said before I will be shooting for 225-275 hp or more,and I want the car to pull in the upper RPM's (6500 RPM MAX) So I was thinking a clifford intake would be a good choice(especially since I am thinking of Fuel injection later down the road.)

I have searched,and found that many of you reccomend Dutra Duals over headers.But I live in the desert and am not worried about rust,or carb heat. So which is the best header for a 76 Dart with Manual steering and Manual transmission?

Also what does everyone think of the MSD ignition? I thought the Multi Spark at low r.p.m's sounds like it would be good for a nice idle,and better fuel economy...also has a rev limiter....and would be a good ignition for the Fuel Injection down the road.

Oof! Big problems is right!
If the tank is fundamentally sound, not rusted or badly banged up, you could have it boiled out at a radiator shop. But yeah, you probably will need a new sending unit. Lines can also be flushed unless the stuff clogging them is truly tarlike.
In a '76 Dart you should use the tank that fits '72-'76 A-bodies. There is no "emissions crap", as you put it, to deal with.
No, you should use 5/16" line.
I do not believe in 4bbls for slant-6s used on the street; 2bbls are better. Someone else will have to tell you which too-big carb to get.
The main problem with Clifford intakes is Clifford. Their business practises are best described as deceptive, fraudulent, and illegal.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

MSD works well, but you can get equally good ignition for much less money by doing the HEI upgrade.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Unfortunately the tank is banged up and a little rusty. The main reason I wanted the 70 tank is because it has a 18 Gallon capacity,and That would be a nice feature for my car(lots of long trips) I kinda figured that 3/8's would be too big,so 5/16 should support up to 275 h.p?


On the Clifford intake,I have searched and found them to be just the company you described,so I was thinking of just buying a used intake off of ebay,or in the for sale section. What kind of 2 bbl. do you reccomend?

the factory super six set up is a nice, easy to tune and readily available upgrade. i'm not sure if will support the 275HP figure you are after, though.

they pop up on ebag for way too much $$$ all the time.

go to

www.car-part.com

and do a search for 1978 Plymouth Volare intake. i'd stay away from the Aluminum ones from the factory.

sending units are readily available from a number of sources, again they (and fuel tanks as well) can be had on ebag for your application. those, at least, seem to be more appropriately priced than the super six manifolds. repro- fuel lines are also available, but i would probably bend my own.

best header for your dart is the Dutra Dual exhaust manifold set up. no leaks, no 'dimpling pipes' to get them to fit, no collector flange issues like headers....and for the price you get a set up that will outlast the car. the bonus is, the engine compartment won't be as loud as it would with tube headers, you won't have ground clearance issues and you keep that pesky carb heat, OR you could go with dual dutras and have all that and still get rid of the carb heat. (but why?)

sb

This is the piece that broke.What is it? Am I able to buy a new one?

Yes that is a threaded piece. It should screw right out and a new one purchased. Just make sure that the carb itself isn't cracked.

Russ

_________________
1968 Valiant 100 4 door 225/6

it's called a FUEL INLET and comes in several thread pitch and sizes. Yes, yu should be able to get it.

Big carbs you say? holley 4 bbl 600 cfm (@1.5) vacuum secondaries manual choke. If you don't need (or can't use with tour mill) the secondaries you can install a stiff spring and use it like a good holley big 2 barrels. Those would flow on the 400 cfm side (@3) and are just right for a street slant with the stock cam. If you get it new from summit say, get a secondaries spring quick change kit and some assortment of pump cams and springs.

Other good carb for a slant would be the edelbrock 500. I believe my friend rock had a set for sale (offy 4 bbl mani and edelbrock 500 carb) you PM him before I get the christmas cravings and get that self for me! (I already got a offy mani from Charlie_S and I bought a 600 cfm holley used on ebay)

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

My recomendations for a stock engine that is going to be hot rodded in the future are:
1. go ahead and get the headers. Doug will even tell you that they are better (marginally) than the Dutra Duals for all out performance. I am running Clifford shorties that came off of a Volare that came withe a Y-pipe down to a single 2 1/2" pipe to a Cherry Bomb Turbo muffler and then 2 1/4" pipe out the back. I picked them up at Carlisle for $75. Ask the guys I have raced with, it sounds mean with out being annoyingly loud.
2. If you are going to go all out race engine sooner than later get the 4bbl intake and 390cfm Holley. On a stock engine it is like having a 2 bbl because with the right secondary spring you will rarely if ever get into the secondaries until your engine is built to create the needed vacuum signal required to open them. I am running a Clifford 4bbl intake ($125 again found at Carlisle)and a 465cfm Holley(gift from my brother in law). If you go with a 2bbl get yourself a super six setup. The super six offers better power, mileage, and drivability than the stock one barrel carb. Go with a Carter BBD (they are everywhere in the yards) and if you happen to find an aluminum intake just check out the area under the carb for cracks. If it is intact paint it the color of your engine and go. The aluminum intake is about 1/3 the weight of the cast iron unit which is helpful for you racing endevors. My car lost 40 pounds when I went from the stock one barrel carb with cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds to an aluminum super six and headers.

_________________

THanks argentina-slantsixer,the name was on the tip of my tongue. ITs looks like the carb has a small crack,but is not leaking fuel. I want to just get the car running so I can move it into the garage!


The car is not going to be a racer(I do plan some auto-x,and a few 1/4 mile passes!) Its my daily driver. Is there any advantage to running a clifford intake over the offy?

The needle and seat that "cracked" is found in any carb rebuild kit (getting a quality one is 75% of the battle to fixing it).

If going fuel injection later, I have found that the 1974-1976 Gas Tanks are perfect for the job since they already have a nice 5/16" return tube tapped into the top of the gas tank (for your EFI fuel return line)...
All the tanks 1967-1976 are the same size, if you want a couple more gallons, swap the filler neck from an earlier model as the "filler vent" is different between the 1976 models years and the other years (aka...for 2 more gallons 14 to 16, go find a 1973-1974 Duster and swap it's filler tube for yours...)

You can "dial in" the 390 Holley pretty well, when street driving, I "lock down" my secondaries by putting in a stiffer spring to retain gas mileage (like right now the Hpak Duster has a "plain spring in the pod" and it's getting a nice 21 mpg highway...for "drag" purposes I swap back to the lighter "yellow" spring which seems to flop the secondaries open right about 2500 rpm under load....). If you really want an expensive "2" barrel, just lock the secondaries out with the "black" spring and it becomes a 2 barrel Holley...

Ok,thanks DusterIdiot. So if all tanks were the same size,how did the 70 have a 18 gallon capacity? Could I just use a tube from a 70 Duster?


So I want to keep the tank with the return line,but how do I get rid of the charcoal canister? Just remove it and all necessary lines,and plug up some of the vents/lines on the tank?


I dont really want an expensive 2 bbl. I just only want to buy parts once.I figured that if I am going to build a hot slant with a carb(while I work out EFI) I should get a 4 bbl.

Any thoughts on the offy VS. clifford manifold?

I posted some pics and there was a topic a few months back as I compared the 1967 18 gallon tank out of my '67 with a 1974 Duster tank and a 1976 Feather Duster Tank I have in the storage shed...all have the same dimensions, the '67 used a single "belly" band and the later versions used the dual "suspender" type straps. The difference in capacity is related to the tank filler neck as it has a "tongue" welded into the tube to vent air out of the tank quickly as you pour gallons into the tank quickly... the level at which the tongue is placed causes the fuel backpressure sensor in the pump to "kick off" earlier. The 2 gallons isn't easy to get either as the '67 I use sometimes kicks off the pump about a 16 gallon fill up.
Yep, but you may experience some "puking" at the gas cap like the early 70's A-bodies when using a poorly made aftermarket gas cap.


I think if using dutra duals I would opt for the offy, clifford is better under other circumstances, but their customer service really sucks (need some local guy to be our "shipping clerk" and be able to walk over there and get our stuff over the counter and ship it to us without the lip service).

The most desires 4 barrel for the purpose is the Holley 0-8007, if spending the money, get a quick change secondary spring pod, and make sure you get a book on Holley Carbs so you are "in the know" on how to tune them.

good luck,

-D.Idiot

Where could I find a quality gas cap? And what do you mean by "puking"? That gas will come out of the filler tube? Why is this?