Alright. I'm a bit unknowledgeable on the subject. I know I should use a 318 or super six carb for my setup but that is about it. I have a 74 Dart Swinger. It still has the electronic ignition. The super 6 setup is from a 77 Aspen or Volare based on the # from the intake. What year range should I look for in a carb? I do not understand about the choke and stuff. I know to stick with a Carter. Could anyone suggest a carb # ? I do not know what is on it now but it needs rebuilt and I know I should not buy a rebuilt from a chain store. Anyone know a good rebuilder in the Dallas area? Thanks

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1974 Dodge Dart Swinger Auto Slant 6
1970 Plymouth Duster 340 4 Speed
1988 Toyota Corolla SR5

Wow. No responses? You'da thunk I said the B and P words....Breather and PCV

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1974 Dodge Dart Swinger Auto Slant 6
1970 Plymouth Duster 340 4 Speed
1988 Toyota Corolla SR5

If your carburetor you have now is original (and not a parts store reman) then your best way forward is probably to evaluate its condition and if it's basically sound, either put a kit in it yourself or (if it has worn throttle bores, etc) send it for a more thoroughgoing refurbishment. I can't think of any builders in TX; there must be some. I wonder if Steve ( 440_magnum on here) might know.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan

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1974 Dodge Dart Swinger Auto Slant 6
1970 Plymouth Duster 340 4 Speed
1988 Toyota Corolla SR5

While we're on the subject of which carb, what are pros and cons of the Holley 1920 vs the Holley 1945. I sort of prefer the 1920 because it is they seem more reliable as they age and "arguably" more rebuildable.

This gets batted around every so often both have their ups and downs, if you have a factory new carb on the shelf never been installed both would work OK if fitted with the proper main jet and adjusted correctly...when rebuilding many people have had to gamble and see if the carb would "come back"...the Holley 1945 has problems since it comes in 3 peices and at any one time they may not mate together so well, they have lots of emissions ports that need plugging on older applications, the 1920 is very simple to rebuild, but a few posts here have shown that the metering block can get plugged with crud and become unusable, or in one case the check balls weren't installed correctly at the factory 40 years back and mileage suffered horribly....

6 of one and half dozen of the other, if you have a couple of Holley 1920's available pick the best looking one after tearing it down and don't forget to replace the float....if you have no 1920's available but have a bucket of 1945's tht have been kept in a nice warm garage and not soaking in the rain for 20 years you might see about picking one that does not bear a remanufacturing sticker on the side...

-D.Idiot

"Carter BBS anyone?"

DI's got it right, nowtimes it frequently comes down to which carburetor can be had in best/newest condition. The first-year ('74) 1945s were full of unfinished designs; later ones got better. The driveability issues with these were mostly a result of extremely lean calibration rather than design. Recalibrate them to supply a realistic fuel/air mixture and they run well. That said, if we're comparing carburetors in like condition, I like the 1920 better, and the Carter BBS even better than that.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.