Surfing Craigslist, I found a guy in Spokane (Sprague to be specific) selling a '74 Duster with a 225 for $1500. Looks to be in fairly good shape from the pics, but it is showing its age. If he's still got it when I get home in April (deployed right now) I'll be going to take a look at it and if it really is in good shape, I'll be buying it! The issues the guy mentions in the ad are the same problems the ex's Dart had, so I know how to troubleshoot and fix those problems. Looking at the engine pics, it looks like it has A/C with all the extra stuff on it (74s didn't have Lean Burn, correct?). I'm not really sure I want to keep the A/C on there if I get the car, but OTOH, I guess it wouldn't hurt anything, eh? The ad also says it's not the original engine, so I'm hoping maybe the current cylinder head has the hardened valve seats needed to withstand burning regular unleaded fuel.

Anyhoo, if I'm able to get it, I plan to keep it maintained and tuned as an economy daily driver with a little bit of "oomph" to it. So what would be some recommendations from you guys (aside from the obvious of keeping the engine and carb tuned and properly maintained) for getting the most mileage out of it?

Here's a link to the ad. Any thoughts? Any issues in particular that I should look for in a car this age?
http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/289881169.html

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Just check for rust in the usual spots, 74 had some 'sealing' problems in the trunk area and rust throughs are common, also some A-bodies came without factory undercoating (my '74 Duster did and it was a Washington car too...), so check for rust underneath)...

Be warned the timing curve is 'lazy' for this year, the EGR is still primitive, and it really would help to add the 'Feather Duster' exhaust pipe mod if you are looking for economy. Also the Holley 1945 if still there is under jetted and may be problematic if it's old, un-rebuilt...or even a remanf...

Other than that 1974 is a good car (shares lots of common and easy to find parts with the late A-bodies, and already has a set of 318 torsion bars standard).

-D.Idiot

Yeah I figured rust would definately be something to look for. I didn't think of looking at the trunk, so I'll be sure to check that closely if I go look at it. I haven't heard of the "Feather Duster" mod before, so I'll definately look into that. I know for sure I'll want to get a set of Dutra Duals and recurve the ignition. I plan to go the HEI route for the ignition, just for the simplicity of it (and I've already got the parts too, so, bonus). I'd also like to go the Super 6 route if I can track down the necessary parts.
Would you recommend keeping the 318 torsion bars, or is there an even better way to go? I'd like to have the suspension and handling as solid and tight as possible (as close to the feel of a newer compact as possible would be outstanding). I'd definately put on sway bars if they're not there already, and replace all the bushings with poly. I did that on my truck and LOVE how much better it handles for a 2.5 ton vehicle.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The feather duster exhaust pipe is just replacing the "weeenie" pipe with one made from 2.25" pipe (or 2.5" if bent by a cheap exhaust shop...)... This will be plenty fine for a stock super six setup...but if going dutra duals, disregard the single pipe.

I just wanted to warn you about the bars, as some guys have the notion that the slant six used different bars, this was true in the pre-1972 era when the slant got noodle bars, the 318 got better bars, the 340/360/318 A/C cars got better than that, and the big block/ police etc...

After 1973 Mopar knew they had to trim the fat badly so there are only 3 stock torsion bars to get in a car the slant 6/318 bars, the 318 A/C / 360 bars, and the police/taxi cab bars...

If the bars are still in good shape the stock bars are fine, if looking for better the 340/360 bars are good too...



Other options you must weigh when looking at the vehicle and it's value... you'll have to check to see if she has disc brakes they were more common (actually the bolt pattern of the wheels will give you a hint of 9/10" SBP and disc = LBP)...also check the rear, there were quite a few 'economy' cars especially Dusters and Dart Sports that got an 8.25 rear too...

-D.Idiot

Thanks for all the tips. It's been so long since I've looked at A-body stuff that I feel like I'm starting from scratch. the Duster's still on Craigslist, so I'm going to email the guy tonight (it's nighttime where I'm at now; we're 13 hours ahead). I'm thinking I'll try to get me a set of 340 torsion bars and work on tweaking the suspension as much as I can after getting it tuned up and getting the electrical issues fixed (he says it has a few), then it'll be on to the interior and dynamatting the bejesus out of it to make it nice and quiet.

I'm starting to get excited to work on a car I can actually afford to work on

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

For what it's worth, I pulled a set of 340/360 bars out of a '73 Dart 4 dr with a /6 and AC. It also had the 6 leaf rear springs, which are now under my Valiant. The car might have had an upgraded suspension as it also had the swaybar (which I grabbed as well). Might be that the T-Bars, rear springs and swaybar had nothing to do with the motor/AC options in this case, but because the car was ordered with the HD suspension.

Just a side note.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I clicked the link to take a look and didn't see the car, I hope he took it down to save till you get back. I have a 74 Duster and had an electrical problem that drove me crazy for a while. 74 had/has a "seat belt interlock" a small plastic box under the dash that was bypassed by the factory almost as soon as the cars were released.....BUT power still goes into and out of this box. Caused me greif when I couldn't get my car to start !!! My windshield leaked and caused it to short out. You'll definiately want a 74 Chry/Ply wiring diagram. Other than that, it's pretty much standard A body stuff.

_________________
There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant Six Dusters !!!

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/slantasaurus/

take a look around

Check the front floors and the frame horn underneath the driver's feet. Notorious rust havens since the windshileds leak.

The vents also leak when the cowl drains are plugged up too.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

What's a good fix for the leaky windshield? I had the same problem with my Toyota and a new gasket mostly fixed it (still leaks from the A pillar), so is it a pretty good chance that a new gasket would fix the problem on the Duster too?

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me