What are the choices in fuel do you have there???
If you run 10:1 and better, you'll need 95RON at least, and 98RON is better.
Here, the lowest RON fuel available is 91, and the highest 98, and theres talk of them ( fuel comp'ys) coming out with 100RON.
My slant 6 has 240PSI compression and needs 98RON to run good, and 108RON Avgas is real good.

thanks for all the input fellas. would i still need to recurve the distributor with the pertronix ignition package?

Thanks,

Russell

Yep. The pertronix changes how the spark is triggered, but not when (to any significant extent). It's not that bad though, and there are several good threads here on recurving.

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

hey thanks for all the help guys. your making this a helluva lot easier on me. about the valve guides in the head, how would i know if these need to be replace/reconditioned? is this something that i should let the machinist decide for me?
thanks
russ

Yes

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

yet another question. if i have the head shaved, and the block milled down a bit, am i going to need a custom length set of pushrods, or with the stock length still work for me? i dont know how much im gonna get it machined yet. im looking for 9:1 or a bit more i think.

russ

I shaved .100" off the block, and my stockers were fine. BUT I had a reground cam, which offset the length a little. I think 100 would be max with a stock base circle cam.

_________________
225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

thanks for the reply. Im not using a stock cam though, im using an Erson 270 cam. Will my stock pushers still be ok?

Russ

your stock rod length should be fine ,when the engine is together and lash is done make sure there is at least 1to2 thread showing below rocker then give them a drop of green loctite, i found the the lash lasted longer between adjustments

ok, i dropped everything off at the machine shop last week. now it comes time to make a few decisions. assuming that the block has only been decked once to make a level surface (beacuse i know the engine has been rebuilt once, but im not sure what all was done), how much should i have taken off the block/head to get +9:1 compression? the machinist told me that the pistons were .030 over, and he thinks that im gonna have to be bored again, but he didnt know how much untill it the engine was vatted.

russ

You need to CC the heads and find out how far down the hole the pistons are to determine your current compression ratio, the you can figure out how much you need to shave...........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

every 225 block i have dissmantled with stock pistons were .187in down the bore(7to1 comp) .with no more than .060in off head(1cc=.0066in off head)that will give you about 48cc chamber volume,that is if the chamber hasnt been cleanup or polished, i would not take no more than 0.090in off the deck of block, this should be close to 9.5/1comp, but remember the bigger the bore the more compression you will make, if i had the choice and the head has not been planned i would take it all off the deck surface and keep the combustion chamber as large as possible.

thanks for all the help fellas. i dont know if when i was doing tear down i lost my oil slinger, or if there wasnt one installed in the first place. its a 65 a100, so it should have had one installed right? do i need one? and where is a good source for one? also, what is the proper way to prime the oil pump/oil system before initial startup?

russ

I don't believe the oil slinger is essential but if it were me I would put one in. I believe it is inteneded to shield the timing cover seal from excess oil to reduce leaks.

The oil pump cavity should be packed with vaseline or light grease when reassembing the engine. Other than that I have seen recommendations that you remove the spark plugs and spin the engine until oil begins to flow through the valve train. That's probably a good procedure to follow but it requires a strong, fully charged battery. I'm sure others will contribute thier insight and experience as well.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

david the pertroleum jelly is a good idea to make sure pump is primed,i always removed the plugs, poured oil down the pump before installing the oil filter then crank the engine untill pressure showed on the gauge.