I've had the answers to these before, but after searing around today I can't find them anymore. I seem to remember the correct valve lash settings to be .01" intake and .02" exhaust, and set with the engine hot, correct?

And with the timing, I can't remember at all what the recommended starting point is. Little help please?

I'm ordering all the literature I need in the next couple days, but since I have Monday and Tuesday off, I wanted to at least get started on tuning up my car.

Also, what's the total coolant capacity with a '75+ engine?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Assuming a stock cam, I'd set the intake to 0.010" and exhaust to 0.20", hot and running.
Basic timing, I'd look for 10 degrees BTDC and see how she does.
Your results may vary.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Yep, see here.
On your '75, the factory spec probably calls for 0° (TDC). You may want to try 2½° BTDC and see if it runs well without pinging. That's at curb idle, with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged. Hey, speaking of which, does your vacuum advance hose run directly from the carburetor to the distributor, or does it go from carburetor to a valve on the air cleaner housing, and from there to the distributor?
Ummmmm...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

H'mmm...given the '74-'75 advance curves I've seen, I think 10°BTDC is going to cause a lot of pinging. It definitely will if the EGR is disabled. But, yeah, see how much you can get away with. I'd be surprised if you can go beyond 5° BTDC (with no EGR) and run on regular gas with no pinging.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hence the " ... and see how she does. " part.

Our cars are old, they've lived varied lives, and parts have been swapped around over the years. 0, 10, somewhere in there will get you started. Then you can tune for your situation.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Coolant capacity is 13 quarts for non air conditioning and 14 quarts for Increased cooling(I.E. Air Conditioning)

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Even in moderation i am excessive!

I'm hoping to lose the EGR tomorrow if I can, so I'll go with your recommendation. I just need to take a close look at the system and get my hands on the necessary plugs/caps/whatnot.

Hopefully this basic stuff, plus tracking down and correcting any vacuum leaks will help cold driveability a great deal. I discovered a busted vacuum line (the brake booster line actually) yesterday during lunch and fixed it, and that helped a bit. Hopefully there will be more I can fix that'll add up to a much smoother idling and accelerating engine.

I never could get the knack of setting valve lash with the engine running. No problems holding the feeler gauge or screwdriver, but it just felt like I could never get it set right. Engine off, I'd have no problems. Is there a technique that I'm missing for doing it with the engine running?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Didjya read the post I linked?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I didn't even catch it when you posted it

That should help me out though. I just have trouble finding the "just right" setting when the thing's running.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The EGR is to cool the combustion chamber, and thus help keep pre-ignition under control. I would keep it.
Sam

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That is indeed theoretically true, and EGR can indeed be part of an effective engine management system, but for the most part that's not how it is on our cars. The EGR systems on slant-6s were "hang on and pray" emission controls designed to effectively strangle dirty-running engines so they'd squeak past unrealistic Federal emission control type approval tests so the cars could legally be first sold. That's when these clunky, primitive EGR systems were new. Now they're old.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It goes from the dizzy to the air cleaner to the carb. Any real reason or benefit to running it like that, or should I run it straight to a (now unused) vacuum port on the carb?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Take the valve on the air cleaner out of the line: Run the hose directly from the existing port on the carb directly to the distributor. You will be very pleased at the improvement in acceleration and around-town mileage.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sounds good to me. I'll be doing some more work on it tomorrow, so I'll do it then.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me