Ok just to know we are on the same page Number one wire off the distribtuor should be the first post going counterclockwise from the holddown clip toward the front of the engine. The next wire counterclockwise goes to number 5. then 3,6 2,4. Thanks Ron Parker

Yeah that I'm sure of (made that mistake before and remembered it today). I'm pretty sure the resistor is connected right, since it's got a hold drilled in it and a groove cut on one side for plastic "pins" on the connectors to line up with.

I have a feeling you're right with the timing thing. That'll be the first thing I check tomorrow when I get off work.

Uuuuhhh, hey Ron, don't you mean clockwise (when looking down at the dizzy from the passenger side)?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Mmm...nope. The distributor rotates clockwise, so the post at around 4 o'clock position is indeed number 1, but then the next post clockwise is 5, the next one clockwise after that is 3, then 6, then 2, then 4.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Maybe he was under his car looking up at the dizzy

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Just a reminder, if you're cranking it to get spark, you are still bypassing the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor comes into play when you're off the starting circuit.

So what you're observing so far does not eliminate the ballast resistor as a problem. Every once in a while a new part can be bad.

Let us know how things turn out,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

Yep Yall are right clockwise the four o clock kind of confused me as I was looking at a engine manual. But sometimes that happens with me an Bud. Thanks Ron Parker










Bagels Juiced Im Bamboozled

Generally, when the ballast resistor fails, the engine will crank and fire, but die as soon as the key is released from "start" to "run". But yeah, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a continuity meter across both sides of the resistor to make sure it's not open.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll be sure to give that a check tomorrow too. Any way I can check the ignition box itself? Heh, I should just take a couple hours and throw in the HEI stuff and call it good (once I get the bugger running).

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Just for grins I thought I'd tell you the way I always try to use to get an engine in rough time and to ensure that the rotor is pointing at number one on a compression stroke. I take the plugs out of it so it will turn over easily. Then, have someone grab a fan blade with one hand and push against the fanbelt to tighten it up with the other and rock the fan to get the motor to roll over. Then with someone holding their finger over #1 plug hole, turn the engine in the direction it runs until compression starts to build under the thumb of the person covering #1 plug hole. This means the piston is coming up on a compression stroke. Then turn the motor in the run direction until the timing mark on the crank pulley comes around and matches up with the pointer on the timing cover. The #1 piston is then at TDC. Look under the dizzy cap to see which terminal the rotor is point at. If it isn't pointing directly at a terminal, repoint it by reposiioning the dizzy until it does. That terminal is then number one. Wire the rest of the dizy terminals according to firing order (remember, the rotor turns clockwise) and you're done. Good luck! Davey

Looks like you guys were right. First thing I did today was pull off the valve cover (ooooh that was NASTAY!) and ensure that #1 was at TDC compression. I then reassembled everything, ensuring that #1 was connected to the appropriate post on the distributor cap, and following the correct firing order from there. Fired right up and ran AWESOME with all the new stuff in place. Took it for a spin on the highway just off base and I was even able to chirp the tires when I romped on the gas after leaving the base.

Unfortunately at that same time I heard a faint *ting* and saw that my speedo took a dump

But hey, at least it runs now, WAY better than it did before the tune up. While I was underneath, I also noticed that the exhaust leak from the downpipe flange was because of it barely hanging on by only one stud, and not having a gasket. So I pulled the stud out, got a new gasket and a couple grade 5 bolts, and secured it in place (with antisieze of course!), and now the engine was far, FAR quieter than it was before. I can't wait to get the gasket set out of Oz and get those installed. It'll be the first slant I've ever heard without an exhaust leak

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Hoorah! Onward and upward.

Did you get that distributor vacuum line rerouted?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Indeed I did. That probably helped contribute to the far better throttle response and acceleration.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Off We go in to the wild blue yonder. Thanks Jopapa . Ron Parker












Bagels Juiced Im Bamboozled