Installed the Pertronix Ignitor II kit to change from points to electronic ignition last night. Fairly easy swap. I hooked the + to the coil and shunted out the ballast resistor. When I started the car it was popping and spitting and when the timing checked out at 35 degrees BTDC at idle, I knew why. Had to move the distributor one tooth to get it back to 5 degrees BTDC. I think the mounting configuration changes the distributor cam relationship as compared to the points. It runs smooth and now I have one less thing to worry about. I put the points, condenser, and rotor in the box and then in the trunk, just in case.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

Hello Pat did the same thing love it . Had to back timing way down also went to larger gap on plugs to.talk to tou later. Don

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'72 Duster /6 with turbo build up
'03 Ram 2500 4x4 w/HEMI 5sp 4:10 posi
My Twister Page

Yep, the timing is slightly different with the pertronix installed (I have the regular version) I don't think it was a 30 degrees difference though as I fixed it with just rotating the distributor.


(and my points and condensor are in the trunk too (plus the old points style voltage regulator (and some oil (and tools)))) ...... and a spare tire

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I had one too, I was great tell my car keep dying. The mounting plate came loss and would lose ground. So make sure you use the lock washers and tighten the heck out of it. One other thing Don't leave the car in the run position without the engine on It will burn the thing out. I learned that the hard way... other then that I loved it I also have the high volt coil works great too

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

Funny you should mention that, Stolen83. I was working on some carb/choke issues and had the engine at idle and it died out. Started it, ran for a few seconds, died out. So I retraced my steps and ended up at the distributor where I found the exact situation you had. The plate screw came loose. Good thing I was in the driveway and not somewhere down the road. Put some red lok-tite on this time and cranked it down good. Three steps forward and two steps back, ya know. They ought to suggest thread locker in their literature.

I'm going to try a little more gap on the plugs too. I bought a new coil a while back but its not a HP job. I'm thinking .040, up from .035.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

glad you caught it before you it the road. It took me like to three week to figure out what the hell was going on when it happened to me. One other thing I would look in to is have you distributor reworked. I had mine reweighed and blue printed and was able reach 4800 rpm on the stock distributor with about 18 Degrees of advance of vacuum Glad I got help this sight has sure helped me a lot it feel good to give back

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

Question, I put in an ignitor II and set the initial timing to 8 degrees exactly the same as starting timing for points. Now I have lost 700 rpm at the top end. I put the points back in and i can get my rpm's back. I installed the ignitor as the directions stated by bypassing the ballast resistor. You guys have any idea? whats going on?

thanks

I had the same problem. I switched to a high voltage coil and it seemed to fix the problem.

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

I just installed my Pertronix Ignitor II. Now it won't start at all, and sounds like timing. But I took off the valve cover, when my timing mark was right at the end of the timing marks. I opened the distributor, and the rotor was in between the number 1 cylinder, and the next one. So I am thinking the timing might be okay. But by reading what you guys are saying, maybe I should back it down some? I have a 42.000 volt Accel coil.

Check power wire 12 volts is ok, mine likes little over 10 for some reason. Runs good up to 5000K hope this helps Don

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'72 Duster /6 with turbo build up
'03 Ram 2500 4x4 w/HEMI 5sp 4:10 posi
My Twister Page

I got my new multi-meter out. But it is my first time using a multimeter. What should I be touching to test that wire out. I am thinking the red cable to the screw on the positive side of the coil cable. And the black to ground. Can I just have the key in the On position, or does someone have to turn the key to get the 12V reading? I know for sure I have juice to the coil. I just don't know what level.

(Pertronics) Hook up + and - to coil it should be fine. Hope this helps Don. Your meter set to read 12 volts ground to coil bracket screw or something like that. Red to + side of coil.

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'72 Duster /6 with turbo build up
'03 Ram 2500 4x4 w/HEMI 5sp 4:10 posi
My Twister Page

Since it was my first time using a multi-meter, I did the battery first, just to see what 12V looked like on that meter. Once I saw that, then I knew from there what to do. I do have 12V at the coil. I think where I am having problems is with the feeler gauge. When I put it in there, the magnet sleeve moves back and forth. So it could be too big or too small. I don't know what happens when it moves. I have it as far as it can go to get small, but can still see the magnet might hit it, or might not be close enough.

Another question, there is a part in that box that I don't see in a picture. But it fits perfect under the rotor. What is that for, and do I have to put it in there, or keep it out?

You should be able to get a brass feeler gauge which will not disturb the magnetic components.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I am using the plastic gauge provided. It isn't magnetic fields causing the movement. The magnet just has some play.