Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Sat Dec 27, 2025 3:36 pm

All times are UTC-08:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 7:46 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:09 am
Posts: 132
Car Model:
With gas going up Ive been looking for ways to get some MPG out of my dart.

What is better for milage. Ported or manifold vacuum going to the vac-advace on the dist? It seems to run the same no matter where I put it. With manifold vac i get ~10deg more right off the bat.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 7:58 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
Manifold vacuum maxes out at idle and decreases when you open the throttle. Ported Vacuum increases as the throttle blade(s) open. Ported vacuum is better, with manifold vacuum you will lose your advance when you hit the gas.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 8:11 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:09 am
Posts: 132
Car Model:
Quote:
Manifold vacuum maxes out at idle and decreases when you open the throttle. Ported Vacuum increases as the throttle blade(s) open. Ported vacuum is better, with manifold vacuum you will lose your advance when you hit the gas.
I would think I would only loose it at WOT. At part throd I should still have some :|


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 11:00 am 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:22 pm
Posts: 580
Location: Austin Texas
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Manifold vacuum maxes out at idle and decreases when you open the throttle. Ported Vacuum increases as the throttle blade(s) open. Ported vacuum is better, with manifold vacuum you will lose your advance when you hit the gas.
I would think I would only loose it at WOT. At part throd I should still have some :|
You do, but the transition is strange. If you hook to ported vacuum, you get no vac. advance at idle and as you crack the throttle open the ported vacuum kicks in (drops out if you floor it). If you hook to manifold vacuum, its maximum at idle. Then when you step on the gas a little bit, it drops way off so the engine falls on its face, then recovers.

_________________
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 12:19 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor

Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:27 am
Posts: 824
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
Ported vacuum is the only way to get desired results from a vacuum advance feature. Ported is the way it was designed to work.

If you connect to manifold vacuum, you will have far too much advance at the bottom end of the rpm range. You may also have a hard time adjusting a vacuum pot that has reasonable response to the range of vacuum it would encounter since none where designed to work that way.

The manifold controlled advance curve would have maximum advance at idle thought part throttle and then fall off at mid to full throttle, that's just not the best setup.

It's ported for a reason, once you get it dialed in properly, you should get maximum results from this method.

_________________
1980 Aspen 225 super six
Image


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 12:53 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
as a matter of fact, manifold vacuum on the distributor would only render your mileage worse as your perfomance drops drastically too. You may achieve better power with no vac advance if your's a WOT car or a mid-modified car, but proted vac is the only way of actually getting mileage improvement out of vac advance feature.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 1:01 pm 
Offline
Guru
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
A better question is: "how much ported vacuum advance will my engine take?"

The vacuum advance "pods" come with different amounts of advance, if you are after more mpg, try a pod with more advance. (11x or a 12x)
I have modified the arm of the pod to get even more light throttle total advance but there come a point where you start to get a lot of pinging which hurts mpg and your engine.
DD


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:00 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
If you want more advance than what your current pot can give you, order a vacuum advance can for a Feather Duster, that is what I did.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:02 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:09 am
Posts: 132
Car Model:
ok im back on ported.

I never really tuned a car for milage so that thing was normaly never hooked up in my other cars :lol:


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:29 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
actually if you did that (unhooking or not hooking vac pod properly) on a mild to stock engine you've been missing both performance AND mileage. For really taking advantage of not using vac pod (from a performance point of view) you really have to maximize your initial timing and limit the total mech timing and study the advance curve map closely along with your carburation, rear end ratio, engine specs, ignition type, compression ratio, type of fuel used, exhaust, vehicle weight, transmission used and gear ratio spread, and most important: your way of drive. say if you were using a 1920, 1945 or BBD carbureted slant with stock distributor and stock points or stock EI, stock or less than 200@050 cam (well, you get the picture) you've been driving with less performance and less mileage than what you'd have gotten provide that you should have had everything connected right and tuned right.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:34 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:09 am
Posts: 132
Car Model:
Quote:
actually if you did that (unhooking or not hooking vac pod properly) on a mild to stock engine you've been missing both performance AND mileage. For really taking advantage of not using vac pod (from a performance point of view) you really have to maximize your initial timing and limit the total mech timing and study the advance curve map closely along with your carburation, rear end ratio, engine specs, ignition type, compression ratio, type of fuel used, exhaust, vehicle weight, transmission used and gear ratio spread, and most important: your way of drive. say if you were using a 1920, 1945 or BBD carbureted slant with stock distributor and stock points or stock EI, stock or less than 200@050 cam (well, you get the picture) you've been driving with less performance and less mileage than what you'd have gotten provide that you should have had everything connected right and tuned right.
It was always connnected to ported on this stocker. I was talking about my other cars which where non-stock.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:32 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
actually if you did that (unhooking or not hooking vac pod properly) on a mild to stock engine you've been missing both performance AND mileage. For really taking advantage of not using vac pod (from a performance point of view) you really have to maximize your initial timing and limit the total mech timing and study the advance curve map closely along with your carburation, rear end ratio, engine specs, ignition type, compression ratio, type of fuel used, exhaust, vehicle weight, transmission used and gear ratio spread, and most important: your way of drive. say if you were using a 1920, 1945 or BBD carbureted slant with stock distributor and stock points or stock EI, stock or less than 200@050 cam (well, you get the picture) you've been driving with less performance and less mileage than what you'd have gotten provide that you should have had everything connected right and tuned right.
It was always connnected to ported on this stocker. I was talking about my other cars which where non-stock.
OK I'll stop my rant! :lol: :wink:

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC-08:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited