The 170 in my 63 Dart is getting weaker and I have a 80 225 solid lifter engine with 44,000 miles on it that I would like to install.I have a correct flywheel and still need to get a 63-66 pan and pickup.
I would like to shave the head to get 9-9.25 to 1 compression.
From what I have read here ,the 80 mechanical cam is a decent grind but could I or should I advance the cam a few degrees to help performance a bit. I will be using at least a Super Six intake and 2 1/4 exaust and at most a OFFY intake ,390 Holley and Dutra duals.
This is an interim engine until I get my other engine built which may take awhile thats why I dont want to start changing cams or get too radical just trying to get a little more oomph out of it.
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.Thanks.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

I dont think I asked my question right,Would it be worth my effort to advance the stock cam in an 80 model Slant for a slight performance boost and has any body done this,the engine will have 9-9.25 to one comp ratio.
Thanks
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

The best thing to do would be to do a degreeing procedure to find out exactly where the cam is installed. This varies a lot in the production engines, and once you know where you are, you can figure out where you want to be. Good opportunity to replace the stock nylon-toothed timing sprocket with a good all-metal timing chain and sprocket set. The Rollmaster people make really nice ones, easily adjustable to put the cam just where you'd like it; this guy runs US-based eBay sales of 'em.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan,I was planning on degreeing as a part of this process ,just wondering if it was worthwhile,Im assuming yes.I was definataly going to replace the the timing set also.
Thanks
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

As they say, "you are there so do it"...
Degree the cam and adjust to have 2-4 degrees of advance.
This should always be done whenever the timing chain and gears are replaced.
DD

I degree'd the cam in my 1980 Aspen and found a lobe separation of 113, so if my measurements were correct, this is different from the standard 244 duration cam used over the years. With over 100K, I found the cam at ~ -3 degrees. I installed a JP adjustable timing set at +4 and measured an actual +3 degrees. I had the head off at the same time and bumped the compression to ~ 9.5:1. If you look you will find a large excess of material in the casting just above the valve seats. I had the heads pocket ported to remove this. The car ran well afterwards. Would it be worthwhile to advance your cam? I agree with Doc: you're there, so you might as well do it.

Mitch

Yes, do it, but mainly to see that your chain is marked accurately. There isn't a whole gang of power to be gained degreeing a stock cam, but there is if your chain is stamped retarded like the ones I got from MP a few years ago.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Dang Dan, I wish I'd seen those trick multi-keyway timing sets before I went to all the trouble to drill out and bush the cam gear on my /6, lol. I'd used the multi-keyway set on my last small block build (and the offset cam snout key). Didn't know it coulda been that easy on my slant, too!

I like the offset bushing in the cam gear better then the multi keyed crank sprocket. You have to remove the cam gear and chain, then use a puller to remove the crank gear, to change which keyway is used. If you use the offset bushing, all you need to do is remove the cam gear change the bushing, and reinstall. Duck soup. I have a multi keyed crank gear, and it is very tight on the crank, and a pain in the butt to remove and install. So I left it at "0", and use a offset bushing in the cam gear.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225