I plugged the return line, and the pressure built quickly to 60lbs, and held it there indefinately after I cut off the ignition. That is good news, as it is a simple replacement. Plus, this part has probably been bad from the start. Can anyone here recommend a replacement part they have been happy with, and apoint me toweards a diagram of how diagram of how to plum it. These things usually come with no instructions, and I almost always wonder if I am doing it right.

Prices and applications seem to range wildly. I have seen them for as cheap as $100 and as much as $375. It needs to have a boost reference. Thanks a bunch.

Sam

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I'm happy with my accufab one. It was a bit pricy - $140 www.accufabracing.com It can be rebuilt. Has boost reference, is adjustable, anodized aluminum, removable fittings, pressure gauge port right on the regulator.

There are cheaper ones - summit shows msd-2222 - has hose barbs directly on it. Body is crimped (not rebuildable) - shows $75.

I have mine plumbed from pickup to pump, pump to input side of fuel rail, output side of fuel rail to input of regulator, output of regulator back to tank.

So you do not have a surge tank or lift pump at all?

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I have a surge tank fed by the stock mechanical pump. The electric pump is just below the surge tank on the driver's fender. I do not consider $140 too much to spend if it works. I spent that last time though. I guess there is always that possibility. Thanks for the link Pierre. I am hoping the faulty regulator has been at the root of all the wierd things. I suspect that pressure was falling seriously during boost. I am now in a position to know more with the fuel pressure gauge in the pass compartment.
Sam

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I hope that you are using a remote sender type guage, right? The thought of pressurized fuel in the passenger compartment scares me.

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People put mechanical oil pressure gauges in the passenger compartment. Less dangerous but still dangerous....

No, I don't run any sort of surge tank. I usually keep my tank over 1/4 full. I thought I've seen similar OEM setups like this with just one high pressure pump strapped to the rail but they probably use some sort of sump in the tank around the pickup. I know its not ideal but I don't want to go through the hassle of a surge tank and/or second pump unles I can find something that won't cause too much clutter.

The pressure gauge is electric with a sending unit. Pretty slick. It works even with ignition turned off as it is powered by batt.
Sam

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Doesn't that mean it can drain the battery if left sitting?

Once you replace the regulator I would remove the check valve you installed.

That is a good question Pierre. My guess is it uses very little juice, and only if pressure is present. Why would you remove the check valve?

Sam

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Pierre, I looked at the link you provided for the fuel pressure regulator. If I am reading their page correctly, the unit you are using is UREG-1 at $137. Is that right? Does it have connections compatible with AN fittings? Will I be able to adapt my stainless AN-6s to this. Thanks for helping,.
Sam

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If the gauge can sense, wether its at zero or not, its using some juice. Probably not much, but not worth the risk for me I put all my electric gauges on a key on feed.

As for the check valve - it doesn't need to be there, it is one more source of failure, and its a point of restriction too.

The regulator - yes it is the UREG model. Finding it on other sites, they label it as -4an in and out. I remember the fittings had o-rings on them. I know the fuel pressure port is 1/8" NPT for sure. If you have your gauge somewhere else, get a plug for that port. The small bracket is a separate piece and may or may not come with it so make sure to ask.

Adapting it to the hardlines directly - there should be some fittings to make it work but may make mounting more challenging. I used rubber hose of the r9 type to do the deed. I had to use 2 fittings per port, one I'm guessing from -4an male to -6an male thread then one -6an thread female to hose barb. Here is a pic of how mine is seated.

Its too bad the place I bought mine doesn't stock them any more, they had a full assortment of fittings. Here is a set of fittings for the regulator. They also have the regulator/bracket for 120. This place even has it for $75.

Edit: if you meant -6an stainless braided rubber hose then the fittings above I linked to should do the job.

Pierre, The switch for the gauges sounds like a good idea. Although, I am sure my radio/cd player has a drain on the memory for the tabs and settings. This battery recovers pretty readily with a battery tender. It is a deep cycle drycell type Optima. Thanks for the links. I will order the piece today, and should have everything ready to fire withinn a couple of days of it's arrival.
Sam

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I did install the new regulator, and all is cool now. I purchased a Magna Fuel from the local speed shop. The cheap Accu Fab listed on the web was not really available. They had only one, which was sold, and then their web site broke down, and they could not remove it from the copy.

I DID discover that pretty much all fuel fittings leaked when the pressure went up to 60 lbs, which I had never seen before, since the old regulator leaked down right away. I was able to tighten all of them to where it seems as if they are no longer leaking. The upper O rings on the injectors are still seeping at 60 LBS, but this is higher pressure than it will see, as the regulator raises the pressure 1 psi per pound of boost. It was running around 8 lbs of boost, so that would max it out at about 51 psi or so. HOpefully, once the O rings are wet, and all is hot, and the pressure is low, I won;t see (or smell) any fuel there.

I went back to the speed shop and asked about O rings, but surprisingly, they do not stock them, and say they are on back order. Anybody know a source of these? My brother is coming over on MOnday night to hold the fires extinguisher, and we will try to get her going. The base calibration is all new, so it may take some doing. I will post about the planned sequence of tuning events soon. I am pretty excited, but somewhat fearful I will get into the mess I did last year where it would not even read the distributor count, or some other wierd disfunctional thing. I have been so tempted to just turn the key, and see if it will start, but that was the mentality I had last year at this time. I have maintained the disipline to wait until I have fixed everyting that I at least KNEW were wrong, or could be improved.
Sam

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Good luck Sam. Hope you are finally getting all the gremlins worked out.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Injector O-rings? If you need those and you're running Accel injectors or other common aftermarket ones, you can just ask for an injector O-ring kit for a '88 Ford Mustang with a 5.0 and they should fit most Bosch style injectors. If, like me, you're running junkyard injectors, you'll probably have a more specific make and model in mind.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair