hey, would we do any damage to the car by running a hotwire from the battery to the left side of the ballast resistor? when we ran it to the left side the coil got hot to the touch, very hot thanks

The ballast resistor doesn't know its left from its right or its up from its down. "Left side of the ballast resistor" doesn't mean anything. You probably mean either "upstream" or "downstream" (or "input" or "output"), but there's no way for us to know which one you mean until you tell us.

Generally when things like coils get hot (very hot), that means that damage is about to occur.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

sorry, i mentioned it in my previous post and forgot to here, the side that goes to the + terminal on the coil is the side we hooked it up to when it started and ran but the coil got hot, so this question concerns the other side, downstream/output i guess...also, would an hei conversion fix this maybe?

Connecting to either side of the ballast resistor with the engine stopped & points closed will heat up the coil. When you connected to the side of the resistor that goes to coil +, you connected to the output/downstream side of the resistor, and the coil got hot 'cause it was seeing too high of a voltage.

HEI works, but I think I would probably start out by finding and fixing your car's wiring and switching problems before introducing new variables.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

have you looked at my other post from today? i would really appreciate your expert input on this, im lost and dont know what to do, i fought this thing last summer for a while and ive fought it most of today, thanks

If you bypass the ballast resister, you will burn out your coil, or your ignition module. It is bypassed during the crank mode, as the cranking postition on the switch send 12v to the "downstream" side as Dan says, or the side that goes to the coil. As soon as you release the key, the 12V then gets sent to the 'upstream side", opposite from the connection that goes to the coil. Then the ballast resistor "uses up", through it resistance and subsequent heat loss, about 4 volts to keep your coil cool.

The MSD ignition does not use the ballast resister, because the MSD module is what energizes and fires the coil. Is there not an HEI article here on the forum somewhere? Do a search and see how this all goes together. See if the ballast resister is included in it's circuit. It certainly is needed with the Mopar electronic ignition.
Sam

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the hei doesnt use the ballast resistor, ive been looking at stuff on here on and off all day, but the ballast resistor isnt the problem i think, its just that if we jump either side of the ballast resistor it will start, but when we did it on one side the coil got too hot, so dad wanted to know if we could run it the other side without damaging anything, thanks though! ill definitely be looking into the hei conversion more once i have money, we had to buy gas today in change
edit: and no need to worry about the module or anything as i still have points...

ok, here we go, i have an ammeter(i think) that i got at an auction, it has negative and positive directions, and says amperes, it has two studs, one has a - sign and one has a + sign, also another little wire for the light behind it, i put the red wire from the ammeter (finally got the *&^%&$& gauge cluster out, it was caught on the power wires for (i think) the radio) on the +terminal and the black wire on the - sign, now my car will start! the ammeter goes down a bit when i turned on the fuel pump(elec) and lights and went back up when i turned them off, i think it never got past negative numbers because i broke a connector for the alternator where it goes through the firewall, when i shut it off it went back to '0', so is this a workable fix that wont burn my car up? if so i plan on running longer wires from the original ammeter position to a three gauge holder i got with the new ammeter and oil pressure and engine temp, and a separate tach, if this works, the first three gauges and the housing may be the best $1 ive spent on this car!

If that hot wire to your ameter touches any part of the frame, it will burn up the fusible link. If some yo-yo has replaced the fusible link with wire, it will burn up your car. Be carefull!
Sam

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thanks for the heads up, some yoyo already messed with it, me! i have a whole roll of fusible link, ill be sure to shield it somehow, thanks!

couple more questions is the power to the gauge cluster coming from the wires that go to the ammeter? also, im wiring up my tachometer soon, its the kind that sits on the steering column, i was looking through old posts and doc mentioned to someone to hook into the radio for their tach, is that just for the light? which wire goes where? does it matter(for the light)? also it has a green wire and a red wire, ive heard one goes to the coil, but where? any ideas? its a stewart warner, i emailed them to try to get a installation sheet but not too hopeful on that, i cannot say how excited i am to get this thing going again after driving exclusively riceburners (mine which were junking tomorrow and the gf's while at school) since this last july or august...the only thing ill miss is their 4cyl fuel economy, once i get my super six tuned it shouldnt be awful...
thanks guys!

forgot, what do you use on the gauge cluster? its flaking off, for the chrome spots i mean, also, it had tape on the back over one of the holes behind the turn signals, and residue from tape over the other turn signal, but they worked, whats up with that? do i need to recover those holes?

i installed my tach yesterday. green wire to negative coil ( distributor side)

red to a switched positive


only matters for the light wire if you want to control the light with the dimmer switch.

my tach isnt a stewart warner thou so i hope the wires are the same

also states in my instructions that if your gauge bounces that the ground is noisy and best to ground it away from the dash and instruments

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