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 Post subject: 65 A Body Cooling issues
PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 7:53 am 
I'm having trouble with overheating on my SL6 - now I already know how to stop the problem (retard the timing) - but instead of doing that I'd like to install a larger radiator. Now I know that this is the slant six group - but I figured I'd come here for help. I have a 65 Dart - with the OEM radiator - it doesn't cool enough (thinking about having it recored). I also have a later year A body radiator that would fit with some heavy modifications to the body of the Dart. Are any radiators manufactured for the 65 A body that don't have the one huge bracket and one skinny one - but instead two skinny brackets and a larger core?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Chris

cbrunner@nexant.com


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 9:49 am 
Try getting the one you have recored. I recored the one in my 63 valiant with a 3 row core. I also changed out my heater core. This was where the real problem was.

I have a stock SL6. It is now doing OK, Florida sun/heat and all.

Good luck,

John Killin
Quote:
:I'm having trouble with overheating on my SL6 -
: now I already know how to stop the problem
: (retard the timing) - but instead of doing
: that I'd like to install a larger radiator.
: Now I know that this is the slant six group
: - but I figured I'd come here for help. I
: have a 65 Dart - with the OEM radiator - it
: doesn't cool enough (thinking about having
: it recored). I also have a later year A body
: radiator that would fit with some heavy
: modifications to the body of the Dart. Are
: any radiators manufactured for the 65 A body
: that don't have the one huge bracket and one
: skinny one - but instead two skinny brackets
: and a larger core?
:
: Thanks for any help you can provide.
:
: Chris



Killin5@yahoo.com


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 10:53 am 
I'm having a similar problem with my '64 Valiant. I'm installing an aftermarket air conditioner and need to improve cooling.

I had originally planned to install a 6-blade clutch fan, but it would hit the radiator.

The second thought was to install an electric fan, but none of them are thin enough. They have to be less than 2" to clear the water pump shaft, but the thinnest I found was 2.05, and it only moves 1300 cfm in the size I would need. I doubt it's much better than the stock 4-blade.

In front of the radiator, there is not enough room to install both the A/C condenser and a pusher-type electric fan, so I'm running out of options.

A re-cored radiator would help, but when the temp hits 105 in North Texas, I'm betting it would overheat.

That brings me down to a 6-blade non-clutch fan, which should help air flow a lot, but I'll lose 20-30hp and it'll roar like a lion!

Has anyone else resolved this problem?

lancer_41@excite.com


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 4:32 pm 
Quote:
: I'm having a similar problem with my '64
: Valiant. I'm installing an aftermarket air
: conditioner and need to improve cooling.
:
: I had originally planned to install a 6-blade
: clutch fan, but it would hit the radiator.
:
: The second thought was to install an electric
: fan, but none of them are thin enough. They
: have to be less than 2" to clear the
: water pump shaft, but the thinnest I found
: was 2.05, and it only moves 1300 cfm in the
: size I would need. I doubt it's much better
: than the stock 4-blade.
:
: In front of the radiator, there is not enough
: room to install both the A/C condenser and a
: pusher-type electric fan, so I'm running out
: of options.
:
: A re-cored radiator would help, but when the
: temp hits 105 in North Texas, I'm betting it
: would overheat.
:
: That brings me down to a 6-blade non-clutch
: fan, which should help air flow a lot, but
: I'll lose 20-30hp and it'll roar like a
: lion!
: Has anyone else resolved this problem?


Getting the larger 22 inch radiator into the 65 is easy, it is already set-up with the larger opening. The 64 and older A-Body cars are not as lucky, you are stuck with the 19 inch "footprint" unless you want to do some cutting & drilling.

The first option is to have your current unit recored. The latest cores are pretty good, many have lots of surface area via dense fins and ripple tubes. The trouble with using the older "round tank" cores is the tank seams are hard to keep sealed.

The other option is to put a later "square tank" or cross flow radiator into the car. This takes cutting and drilling work but in the long run would get you a better quality radiator at a cheper price.
DD


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 4:53 pm 
John,
What was wrong with the heater core that affected the cooling? The heater shouldn't have any effect when it is not on, should it? I have a stock 68 Dart 225 that runs hot and can't figure out why. Replaced the water pump and put in a new 160 degree thermostat, and radiator seems to checkout okay, but still runs hot. Are /6's prone to running hot?
James
Quote:
:
: Try getting the one you have recored. I recored
: the one in my 63 valiant with a 3 row core.
: I also changed out my heater core. This was
: where the real problem was.
:
: I have a stock SL6. It is now doing OK, Florida
: sun/heat and all.
:
: Good luck,
:
: John Killin



usclstaffingnet@sprintmail.com


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2002 6:35 pm 
I'm willing to go for a custom-built radiator and have it done right. Do you have any suggestions for an on-line source?
Quote:
:
: Getting the larger 22 inch radiator into the 65
: is easy, it is already set-up with the
: larger opening. The 64 and older A-Body cars
: are not as lucky, you are stuck with the 19
: inch "footprint" unless you want
: to do some cutting & drilling.
:
: The first option is to have your current unit
: recored. The latest cores are pretty good,
: many have lots of surface area via dense
: fins and ripple tubes. The trouble with
: using the older "round tank" cores
: is the tank seams are hard to keep sealed.
:
: The other option is to put a later "square
: tank" or cross flow radiator into the
: car. This takes cutting and drilling work
: but in the long run would get you a better
: quality radiator at a cheper price.
: DD



lancer_41@excite.com


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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2002 5:27 am 
The heater core was clogged. I think it was restricting the flow of coolant. I have been told that the coolant flows through the heater core at all times as part of the coolant system. When you turn your heater on, you are just removing the engine heat inside the car. This is why if you turn the heater on when your car is over heating, your engine temp will drop. I may be wrong here.

The previous owner had had the radiator recored. I had it repaired and then recored. Changed the thermostat. Then, the heater core blew. Coolant drained into the passenger side of the car. I replaced it and have not had any overheating problems since.

John
Quote:
:
: John,
: What was wrong with the heater core that
: affected the cooling? The heater shouldn't
: have any effect when it is not on, should
: it? I have a stock 68 Dart 225 that runs hot
: and can't figure out why. Replaced the water
: pump and put in a new 160 degree thermostat,
: and radiator seems to checkout okay, but
: still runs hot. Are /6's prone to running
: hot?
: James



Killin5@yahoo.com


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