hey guys, getting back to work on my 67 dart gt before i get a job this summer, at the end of last summer it wouldnt start, after having issues the latter part of the summer, i put it away and now im trying to get it going again, last summer it got super six/2.25 pipe/cherry bomb, new ignition switch, new points/cap, some new wiring in the electrical underhood(to the coil and the ballast resistor), replaced the fusible link, and a new starter relay, and i just put on a newer coil that should be working, its the one that was on the current motor when we put in this car, its from a 74 valiant, i looked it up online and its the same part number, it was running until rust issues caused it to retire, but the 67 had an accel coil on it when we got it, so i put that on the 74 motor when it went in the 67, put the 74 coil in today, the ground wire broke from the ring connector when i undid the bolts for the coil bracket, so i spliced on the wire from the 73 parts dart making it longer and with a loop connector that is in better shape, i also put in a newer wire from the battery to the starter relay, and it does the same thing, it wont do a thing when i turn the key, if i have the ignition on(i forget if this matters) i can jump between the two terminals on the starter relay with a screwdriver or something and it will turn over but i dont think it was starting, today the battery is dead, its now on the charger while i wait for help, any ideas? what should i check next? thanks!

it will start and stay running when we run a jumper wire from the battery to the right hand side of the ballast resistor(wire that goes to the +on coil and the ign 2 on the switch(according to my haynes chart which hasnt been completely right so far today) when we pulled that off then it died immediately, and i noticed that the coil was very very hot to the touch, so what are we bypassing that is making it work? but not quite right since the coil is so hot...
thanks

Have you replaced the ballast resistor?

The engine should run with your jumper on either side of the ballast resistor. If it works on one side but not the other then you likely have an open resistor.

If it runs on both sides, but will not run without that jumper, then you may have an open in your ignition circuit (up to the key switch).

-Mac

we replaced the resistor not too long ago, it starts with it on the other side too, so we have an open somewhere, could it be the ammeter? where is located in a 67? thanks all

ive gathered that its back behind the gauge cluster somewhere, but i cant get that out, how do i do that? its caught on something, i know it dips down but cant get it out, dropped column and tons of other stuff

Andy, I would say that there's a good chance that it's the amp gauge. I had a problem with mine as well and it seems to be common for mopars. There's a good tech article about fixing the problem here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml

Sorry, I can't help with opening up your dash, mine is quite different.

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

As I have mentioned before, that article (written by a Chevy freak) is full of errors and poor-quality advice.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i have an aftermarket gauge i got with some others that displays amperes, could i replace the factory ammeter with this? what can i do? thanks

Sorry about that, Dan. Guess I must have missed that post. I certainly don't wan't to lead anyone in the wrong direction. All I can say is that after removing the amp gauge from the circuit, my intermittent electrical problem disappeared.

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

is the ammeter the same as the amp gauge? thanks