After reviewing all the post on this subject, I have tried ordering the Mr. Gasket Mopar spring kit which have two super light springs (for drag racing) and the Crane 99602-1 kit which has all the right springs, was discontinued Feb 2000.

What other options are available for Mopar Springs? All GM spring kits do not have the large loop on the one end.

Thanks

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I ended up making my own................

See:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13264

go down to about 10th post....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Are you buying the precision extension springs?
If so, can you post the wire diameter and length? for a base line.
Do you have spring cut lengths figured out that match the old crane kit springs Doc's article mentions? Example: how many coils does it take to equal a yellow Crane spring, etc.?
I can't believe that we have to make our own springs. No wonder folks find recurving distributors so hard.
Does the heavy spring have to be made with the large open loop on one end? or can I just buy GM springs or MSD springs and use them in their stock form. Everybody seems to carry them.

I just got three extra distributors and wanted to try doing some recurving so I can run 10 degrees initial and 20 degrees mechanical at 2000 rpm. Right now all I can get is 10 degrees mechanical so I have to run 20 degrees initial. My electronic distributor is a brand new rebuild. I have had it apart and everything looks good and moves freely and has a 10R govenor. I am guessing the main spring is too stiff.
Any thoughts on what spring to use and where to get them would be appreciated.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Maybe the Forbo ignition guy can sell the springs?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I have no idea what the spring rates are of any springs other than the ones that I measured or made............

Lighter springs can be made stiffer by cutting coils. (it's linear, half the coils, twice the stiffness)

The large loop is for a 2-stage effect. It doesn't come into play until the weights move out far enough to make contact with the spring, then that spring also retards the advance weights.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

The large spring with loop does not actually retard the advance, it does slow tha rate way down as that heavy spring "hits".

I like to use a dual spring rate mechainical advance for any street driven SL6.
The first step is to find where your car's freeway RPM is, set the loop so the heavy spring hits right at that RPM, then allows a few more degrees of mechanical as you go to "redline" RPM and the weights bottom-out on the govenor plate slots. The heavy spring will not allow much movement at the high RPMs and this helps to keep the weights from bouncing off the ends of the slots.

If you set the looped heavy spring at the right RPM, you will have lot's of mechinical timing at your typical freeway RPM and timing will come-out as RPMs drop for a long hill or for a lower speed passing situation where you are "in the throttle".
DD