Sounds like progress. Keep at it and you'll be in the mid-lower 15s before you know it.

It sounds like your stall converter was spec'ed for a V8. If it is a 2500 stall unit for a Slant, then you should be able to stomp the brakes (at a dead stop) and push the gas down to get 2200-2400 "static stall." Or, bring revs up to about 1200 in gear, release the brakes and stomp the gas and you should get close to your stall spec. If you only have 1500, that is lower than a stock converter (1600-1800). Running a V8 converter in a Slant will only give you about 60-70% the stall you would see on a V8. That is, if it says 2500 for a V8, you will get around 1700 on a slant.

Talk to a knowledgable converter place regarding Slants - Midwest Converter in IL, Continental Converter in Inglewood, CA, PTC in Georgia, Edge Racing Converters in LA,CA are all good choices. Midwest is quite economical and they KNOW what they're doing.

A conventional method of measuring stall is to coast along at 5-10mph and put the trans in 2nd or 3rd gear, then stomp the gas and you should get the max (flash) stall. You may have to adjust your kickdown linkage so the trans will not kickdown to 1st gear.

Looking at your computer timeslip, I'd say a good converter of 2800 stall will get you at least 3 tenths, probably more like 5-6 tenths of improvement.

I advise you to NOT be shy about stall speed. A 2800-3000 converter will not be a hassle on the street at all. I have run up to 3800 on the street on a motor similar to yours. With that cam and build, I would not bother with anything less than 2800 stall.

Cheers,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I agree 110% with Lou. Do not be afraid of stall speed on the street. I used to daily drive cars with 3800 stall.

More stall will make your tuning chores easier too, becuase you are not trying to cover up a deficiency.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

All this information you are gathering will allow you to make some informed decisions and head in a solid direction.

About now that modest carb is paying out well for you on the drivability end.

I can see why you are concered about converter stall speed.....that could kill your bottom end and initiate detonation.

Are you still on race gas?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Fuel is about a 50-50 mix of 110 and 93. No detonation that I can hear and the tuner, who says he has a very good ear, says that he hadn't heard any. I am slowly returning to 93 to see it the ping comes back. I supect that I am going to have to run at least 25% race fuel. At that rate the 55 gal drum I bought should last about a year with me.
Torque convertors:
Should I be able to rev up an engine to 2000rpm with a 3000 stall convertor and the car not move forward holding the brake very lightly?
The torque convertor the I have is suppost to be a stock one that has been modified to raise the stall. It seems that it has less stall than my old convertor. At idle (900rpm) the lop of the engine will pull the car forward a bit with lite to med. brake pressure. With the manual brakes at a stop light it a bit anoying and tiresome after the 10th red light.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Is hooking the PCV valve up to the wrong carburator port really bad? My carburator (after reading instructions) has a place for the PCV hookup and a vacuum brake booster. Right now I am hooked to the brake booster port and the PCV port is pluged. I plan to change it but my question is, is it causing a problem the way I have it? If I change it will my tune change?
A picture of the bottom of the carb is provided.
http://tinyurl.com/2hjmwm

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

It looks to me like both hook ups have essentialy the same relationship to manifold vacuum, and hence should effect the mixture the same way. But, what is keeping you from hooking it up the way they recommend?
Sam

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This is such a good thread I hate to see it fall to the bottom of the pile.

Hows the progress coming?

As far as the PCV hookup, yes I think it could effect the tuneup slightly. They bring it in with the front of the carb, so they are mixing the air that the PCV would flow with the idle curcuit. This would only effect it just a little. And maybe it could cause one or two cylinders to go a little bit lean when at idle or slight cruise because it would be drawing in freash air away from the mix coming in. Probably nothing to worry about, but maybe just enough to cause a little uneven fuel distribution at idle & light throttle cruise. But thats just my thoughts on it, may not effect it any, I am just looking at what I think it may cause.

Anyway, I hope progress is goign your way. Would love to see you getting this thing worked out & doing right. As always, take small steps, and look at all the info when making changes.


Good Luck
Jess

He chickenshitted out.


http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23590

C'mon Bren, switching to a pig block already? You have barely gotten in to tuning this thing and have not even had it at the track yet.

You do realize that a pig block will need tuned too.

You set yourself up with some unreasonable expectations to start with, but the motor is starting to make good horsepower. Stick with it and I am dead sure you will make it into the 14's. Therer are a lot of pig block cars that will not do that. Go to any racetrack on a Mopar day and you will see what I mean.

What's next when the pig block doesn't meet your lofty goals? Blown Hemi?

Give the Slant another chance.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I agree.

I picked up 1/2 a second, and 4 mph, by tuning, between the first day at the track and the following weekend. Went from a 15.66 at 81.58 to a 15.007 at 85.36 on motor only. Still needs more tuning.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I absolutely agree with those that say don;t pull the plug too soon. Get some fun out of it at first. It took me a year to get my slant running right, and I am glad I took the challenge and stuck with it. I sold a Corvette, and a 360 Dart which were both pretty fast, and pretty sexy, when this slant was still not working right, with the conviction that I would eventually be happier with the slant. I sold the other two cars so I could put all my resources and enthusiasm into one car, instead of spreading myself thin over lots of projects. I don;t regret at all where I am for right now. There were more than a few moments when I had doubts, but this group helped me get things staightened out.

AFter I sold the 360 Dart, and had the Corvette and the slant still, one Corvette enthusiast suggested selling the Corvette and keeping the slant because of it uniqueness. "You can always go buy another Corvette if you want", he said, "But where are you going to get another car like that?".

The essence of what Slantzilla was saying is that no matter what your project, there will always seem to be greener grass on the other side of the fence. The fun is in the challenge of improving what you have, not in going the fastest on the track. There will always be someone who will be faster in a heads up race. If not now, then tomorrow. One last comment, the main reason I kept the slant is that I found this group of guys, on this forum to be the best car forum on the web, and I belonged to both a Corvette forum, and a mostly v-8 Mopar forum. There was too much chest pounding and ego driven BS on those for my taste. There are forums with faster cars, and those who spend more money, and those who have way more posts per hour, but not a better bunch of generous, bright, creative, thoughtfull, mature, well balanced guys exists on the web then on slantsix.org.

Sam

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I have a 400 low deck motor w/727 you can have for 1 (one) day with your slant.........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Are you planning on tuning your big block or will you be putting in a V10 next?
Too much money, not enough ambition IMHO

Hmm.

Well I kind of lost interest in this because of the direction I saw awhile ago. Then I thought you were really getting somewhere when I read the post about running race fuel / pump gas blend, colder plugs etc.. Before that I had the feeling that any good input I had (and others) was sort of being dismissed. Both of those points were ones I had made quite awhile back and while it's nice to be polite, I was not guessing.

I gave up when you stated that "taking the engine apart won't fix it". At that point it seemed the goal was still to run pump gas and various ways to deal with too high of a compression ratio were being discussed. Well, taking the engine apart would not fix it, but fixing it would involve taking at least part of the engine apart. It is not at all uncommon to have to work on a performance engine or make changes to get it right. It is only a waste if you let it become that. The expense of actually fixing this is not that great compared to what has been spent already.

I also feel that low 14s or even high 13s with the right suspension setup, converter and gears are not at all unrealistic, but you have to get it all set right and learn how to launch it. I have seen so many big block cars that cannot do this. Others run really fast with the same parts. The difference always comes down to getting it set up right.

If you are into handing at all and are getting away from the slant, I would go with a small block that has a higher rpm range and use good aftermarket aluminum heads. You can put one of these together "off the shelf" without any real development proccess. Probably right down to the carb and jetting. Not perfectly, but real close. Almost like a smallblock Chevy. Stay away from non stock strokes.

I suspect you will not get anything like what you are asking for your engine. I believe most of the guys with the faster cars would rather build their own and can do it for right for less. Keep in mind it is a first effort and even the compression ratio is not confirmed. Do you have flow Data on the head?

Well good luck. Make solid plans, follow them and leave some time and money for changes, issues, mistakes. Don't listen to people who tell you what you want to hear. And if you want to hear what you want to hear in spite of knowing better, don't ask.

The question in the end always is "did it work"?

You seem to be implying that I can't tune this engine. Are you saying that if I where to install say, a 5HP Briggs&Straton, that with proper tuning, no header, no nitrous, that it should be able to push the car in to the low 14's? Ofcourse not. Can this slant get me to the low 14's? Yes, but I am not willing to live with what needs to be done to do it. I will not run headers. I want a certain level of comfort when driving. I believe I need a bigger cam to get there and I not willing to spend more for less driveable comfort. Dropping in a stock 440 will give the best of both worlds, driveability and more power. Yes handling will drop abit but I not a roadracer type. I don't have any intention of sell the car, but If I were it sure would sell faster and for alot more with the big block than a slant. If you disagree your delusional.
I would like to agree with who ever said that this is a forum filled with great guys. I commend you. You have better minds and creativity the be able to make these slant really go. I also agree that I am taking the easy way out, but for me this is the best way to enjoy this hobby. I can bolt stuff on and spend the rest of the time and money with my family.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Bren, having owned a big block A-body and a bunch of fast Slant stuff I feel fairly qualified to say what I am about to say.

You don't have a fooking clue do you?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.