I have one, I got from Kevin. Haven't used it yet. It is for one of my "good" engines.

Remember, a crank scraper fits very close to the crank, and the slant six, haveing 3 different strokes (170-198-225) requires three different scrapers. You need the correct one for your engine.

Kevin, Can I just get the updated piece to use with my existing scraper?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

What about the oil pump? My oil gage (mechanical) reads 50 when I start it up and drops to 25 when at operating temp. I heard if you have an engine from 81 to 87 (hydraulic) that it's better to have a high volume pump because, the engine oils the valves from the top down. Should I do this? I have an 82 225.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

Yes, no problem. Sorry about the delay -- must have had the settings wrong on monitoring the thread.

Is this oil pressure at idle, or at RPM? is the oil a 10-30 or heavier? If a 10-30 oil at idle the oil pressure is just fine, and you need to do nothing. The original (oem) oil pump for the slant, only has a 5/8 rotor, the aftermarket stock replacement pumps have a 7/8 rotor, so this is already a "high volume" pump. The aftermarket pumps, advertised as "high volume" have a bigger rotor yet. Theses are not a good idea for the slant six. It puts a lot of extra strain on the oil pump drive gears, and they are not neccessary. If you feel you need a high volume pump, to get enough oil, something else is wrong.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Oil pressure is at idle. Its 50 at rpms.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

I think I'll pick up a crank scraper on my slant build up. I've been interested in seeing how it will do with one. Motor specs can be seen in the CAIN intake interest topic and any good input would be much appreciated.

You are good to go.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

New oils lack ZDDP which we need to keep flat tappet cams alive.

10-30 diesel oil is what I was running. Rotella. They have reduced the ZDDP in it. I got a buy on 15-40 Valvoline Premium Blue diesel oil. It has tons of ZDDP even meets miltary specs. I wish they had it in 10-30.

Thinner oil has less HP loss due to the HP it takes to turn the oil pump. 5HP added by using a scraper on a 5000RPM or less engine? Give me dyno proof.

Maybe adding STP oil treatment can replace the ZDDP that car oils lack?

Here you go http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... t=all&vc=1

Click on all the links and enjoy!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

You're behind the curve here. Nismo reported 7-8 hp windage loss (5% of output) simply by adding a girdle to the SR20 and KA24. Scrapers shift it the other way.

Ask Wilson for a copy of his dyno sheet; I'd think it easily got back more than 5hp at 5000:
I like the fact that it gave that back over and above a louvered windage tray. And that was a single scraper -- now there are duals.

And remember that these are engines sitting still while being dynoed.

I think that Rafe's comments about no more oil pump gear breakage is a reflection of the huge amount of windage in a SL6 with resulting air entrainment. Puts a lot of stress on the gears -- loading/unloading.

Guys, I pulled the sump off a Mercedes straight six and it has vertical scrapers coming off the sump floor ala Porsche and Ford.

Well, at least the argument has progressed from "they don't do anything" to "how much do they do at XXXXrpms?"

Pumping losses and the oil carried along with and struck by the rotating assembly are probably worse in a straight six than a straight four or V8, In the four bays 1-2 and 3-4 tranfer air; in the V8 it is normally across single bays.

In a straight six bays 1-3, 2-3, 1-2 and mirrored on the other end of the crank. As the windage attempts to cross from 1 to 3 it must pass over/through 2. The atmosphere and oil being struck by the rotating assembly causes friction -- parasitic losses from the power that could be generated.

If I had to guess, I would think that the windage patterns based on pumping shift back and forth from counter-rotating pairs of the first and last three bays to a major cyclical movement up and down the block opposite the central axis of the crank.

Look at the Toyota 2ZZ engine and you can see how the engineers have built in counter-rotating horizontal pumping paths/chambers for bays 1-2 and 3-4.

More on the ZZ series...

The emphasis on cost is missing but assuredly still present. Direct inspection of the parts involved show that the "baffle" is indeed missing from the pan but is now attached to the engine with four bolts (a baffle with scraper louvers too -- imagine that -- might that be how the oil is "really" returned more quickly ). Inspection of a newly made 1ZZ pan shows hand-made inspection strokes in white marking pen of all 10 spot welds -- time consuming.

There is more worth remarking upon but the idea is simple: Just because a component is no longer found in an engine or not found to begin with does not mean it would not help that engine. This same analysis would apply to the engineering done at Dodge with respect to the OE scraper and windage tray designed for the Neon 2.0.

You have to read between the lines quite often and analyze what's going on. It's real work to do this analysis -- I don't just pull wishful thinking from the stars and put it online.

I am just going to send you a new set cut in 16 gauge. Charrlie lent us engines to make the original patterns.

Pics:

Buy the generic store brand name synthetic like Auto Value's or Car Quest, it is usually around $3.00 / quart and ask who makes it for them it is often a well known brand name. Beats paying 5+ for Mobile One.

I'm thinking of getting trop artic 10w30 synthetic blend @$1.85 and STP oil treartment @$1.89 at my local farm/ranch store. But, I will have to go somewhere else for the oil filter. They only have Fram and a counter part Pensoil oil filters.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

I think the Pennzoil might be a decent filter. Walmart sells Mopar filters now. Their Tech filters are suppossed to be decent too.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

You might want to look at this site. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
It says that Pennzoil filters are made by Fram. And check the Mopars!

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846