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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 4:36 pm 
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Doing a buildup as involved as yours and not having all the measurements and knowing the compression ratio is a big mistake. It's a beginners mistake and the outcome speaks for itself. It can be fixed. Putting in big valves without proper unshrouding can be a total waste of time. You can't even count on most shops to do things right. Those were two points I tried to nicely make. Pull that head off, measure things and hopefully correct the compression ratio while unshrouding the valves more. It could make a night and day difference. Horsepower is all about airflow and the fuel burn that it supports, no matter how you do it. This engine is not terminal, just not quite right. It's your engine. If it were mine, I'd fix it. I would not be blaming anyone but myself.
The unfortunate thing is that there is no real consensus on this board on how to accurately measure compression ratio. My setup alone has at least 4 different thoughts on this board as to what the compression ratio should come out to. I know what I think it is, and that's the only one that matters to me.

Bottom line is that he trusted and paid good money to a machine shop that had no clue what they were doing. He has admitted they hosed him on the stroke of the crank, the head porting is seedy at best, and the dyno work is suspect. I am truly amazed that it hasn't puked the crank on the ground yet. Unfortunately, many on this board tried to help him to a more stable course of action and we were told we did not know as much as his engine guy.

Trust me, in the last 2 motors that I did I found a bunch of things not done properly by "the best Mopar shop" in this area. :roll:

I still think this motor can be made to run very well without any major surgery. :shock:

You are right though, it needs way more converter. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 4:56 pm 
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I agree with Dennis and Anothersix here. ( I think the convertor guy actually reduced stall).

The thing that was missed is the magical CR/stall/cam event combination. More stall/less CR might get things closer.

The biggest problems here are unrealistic expectations and over the top methods to try and meet them. A target of 250hp and a plan to achieve it would prolly have made more power.

Solutions offered up seem to revolve around more convertor, unshroud/downsize valves to reduce CR and a ton of tune.....all of which are likely to result in more tractible power.

Frankly, I never could see how this motor could be sprayed safely.

I like the intake and exhaust setup. Im ok with the rotating assembly. If it were mine, the head would go straight to Mike.....along with a piston/deck measure ( I know, I know, its 7 down)

I really think there is a ton to learn here for everybody.....just glad Im not paying for it......or paying to replace it .

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:12 pm 
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In regards to the CR. My builder measured them and I measured them. This engine was built over a 9 month span. So I don't remember some of the measurement off the top of my head, but I posted what they are. The math says its a 10.1:1 motor. It doesn't act like one. My point about not pulling apart the motor to remeasure was that I measured carefully the first and second time and pulling it apart to come up with same measurements again won't help. Openning up the combustion cambers more to lower the CR maybe be a solution, but if the math don't lie, why. Can we agree that a 10:1 motor should run on pump gas? From what I've learned, no. Something is not right with this combination. 10:1 should support pump gas and if I want to spend more time and money, yes I can fix it and be running in the high 14's, no hose.
Moving on:
You keep talking about beeting me (and my new found friend, lennintowerofpower) on hose. What I am claiming is that no slant will be faster than a mild 440 in the same weight cars with no power adders. That all. I no longer feel that the slant is for me. I am choosing to go in a different direction. Well the same direction, just faster. :D

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 Post subject: brens car
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:32 pm 
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i followed this trend with interest, a stroker slantsix something i have never done, to see someone not acheive there goal and then get defensive when he doesnt hear what he wants to hear,anybody on this site that has built a performance sided slantsix has run in to engine shop who dont have the experience with performance rebuilds on any type of engine. i have 30yrs on the street and competion racing with slantsixs, and when something goes wrong you find the problem and fix it.bren these people that are helping you are not thinking long stroke small bore, your engine will make far more tork than hp so you should tune for it.with the static compression #s you have your compression is over 11/1 and 27degs timing is to much and playing with to much octane is slowing the burn rate in the cylinders. your cam is a little smaller than the street /strip car i ran a few years ago the best it ran was 14.20et/ 94mph at 3200lbs , i only say that because i now you can to, if i can leave you with one thing stop thinking hp# and thing tork because every car that i have raced on the street and at the track cant believe how hard a little slantsix pulls away on them so dont give up.good luck


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:54 pm 
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Lets break down what your saying. Are you saying that a low compression motor with proper octane and timing is stronger than a high compression motor with proper octane and timing?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:22 pm 
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I agree that the converter is not right. I just don't want to drop another $500 on a new converter and still not be happy even after a bunch of tuning. Sometimes you half to draw a line somewhere. I am going to continue with the tuning I am just not going to drop any large dollars on it anymore. I am collecting parts over the next year for a 440 replacement. I know whats involved, I put one in a 76 dart when I was 18. I also remember how it made me feel. I don't know how fast it was but with the front shocks removed, you could come to a stop and while the nose rebounded, hit the gas and it would pull and hold the left front tire for about 15-20 feet as witnessed by friends looking on. Do you think a slant 6 can do this with no power adders and still drive it on the street? If so tell me how. When I started this I thought It could be done. I started with the 14second goal for now, but always thought in the future with more money and time, I'd be able to get that feeling back out of a slant. I truely don't think is possiable.
I also feel that I've let you guys down. I ventured into unchartered teritory with the 3.59 over bore. I think alot of you were very intrested to see what the results would be. I don't have unlimited money to spend. I am sorry we couldn't learn more from this project. :cry:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:22 pm 
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Wow..some of these posts are kinda harsh....Ive been lurking here for some time and following this build for info and insight on how to make a slant
Hi there. If you're trying to gain insight on how to build a slant that works, you've been following the wrong build, and I'm not sure why the numerous posts in each and every one of Bren's threads saying "No, wrong, stop, wait, don't, that won't work well, this isn't cost-effective, that's not how this works," etc., didn't tip you off to that fact. You are out of line suddenly appearing on here and preaching a sermon about how we're being too harsh and should lighten up. You haven't got the facts, you weren't involved, and you have no standing to denounce anyone on here this late in this game.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:23 pm 
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You seem to be implying that I can't tune this engine.
All available evidence says you can't.
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I am taking the easy way out, but for me this is the best way to enjoy this hobby. I can bolt stuff on and spend the rest of the time and money with my family.
You're right, big block stuff comes pre-tuned right outta the box, so...kthxbye!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:42 pm 
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Im sorry...but ive got just as much right to post on here as you or anyone else, be it late in the game or not If you dont like my opinion TS......man what a bunch of jerks. :roll: Ill tell you the same thing that the moderator of the board told me....PISS OFF and ill add YA BLOODY WANKER :roll:

I will no longer lurk...i will leave...maybe you pompus asses (you know who you are) will treat the next new guy with a little more class!!!!!!!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:54 pm 
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Im sorry...but ive got just as much right to post on here as you or anyone else
Certainly, and when you post ignorant blather, you can expect to get smacked down for it.
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I will no longer lurk.
Mmkay.
Quote:
i will leave.
Mmkay.
Quote:
maybe you pompus asses (you know who you are) will treat the next new guy with a little more class!!!!!!!!!!
If the next guy isn't one of Bren's sockpuppets like you, perhaps.

C-ya!

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 Post subject: brens car
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
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your missing the point here, comments on how a bb with no front shocks can hold the left in the air doesnt add to you abliality to solve your tuning problem, every engine combination ( cam/ compression/ carbs) have a minumim octane rating. i will give you mine, the engine 10.7/1 comp, 600cfm carb, 286 dur/.528lift 76deg over lap, this engine ran 32deg total timing with 91 octane& 104 additive, then i went to 11.4/1 comp, 750cfm,290dur/.540lift, with 60/40 mix off 91octaneand 102octane av gas this engine ran 25deg timing. both engines ran there best at this tuning level, the last engine runs 12.37ets in a 2500lbs car. even if you put a bb in you car,unless its bone stock, it will require tuning,i am on a tight budget also but there are ways around it for a converter i used a friends for just a few passes to see if it was what i need then i order to those spec.one thing i have to say is that if you are looking for simple hp a small block crate is probably more suited for you but the satisfation of a slantsix you will never beat thats just my opinion. thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:43 pm 
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You seem to be implying that I can't tune this engine.
All available evidence says you can't.
Quote:
Well the motor is in and just brought it back from the exhaust shop.
This happened on May 31 07. So the engines been in the car for about 2 weeks. My busy A/C season is in full swing (means I working overtime) and I have managed to drop almost 2.5 seconds on my ET. What are you looking for Dan?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:52 pm 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
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I don't know how fast it was but with the front shocks removed, you could come to a stop and while the nose rebounded, hit the gas and it would pull and hold the left front tire for about 15-20 feet as witnessed by friends looking on.
Bren, I was honestly refraining from saying this for months, but that quote right there proves beyond the shadow of a doubt that you are indeed an idiot. :roll: :roll: :roll:

People have been trying to help you for months and you only want to hear what you want to hear. I really don't care who measured it, one thing I know for sure is that a big bore motor with the pistons only 7 down the hole will be waaaaayyyyyy over 10-1. You spend big bucks on the build, put in too small a cam, too tight a converter, not enough gear, and then hang A/C on top of it and now you give up.
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:54 pm 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
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I will no longer lurk...i will leave...maybe you pompus asses (you know who you are) will treat the next new guy with a little more class!!!!!!!!!!
Don't let the door knob hit ya where the good Lord split ya. :lol: :lol:

Oh yeah, Piss of wanker. :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: brens car
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:17 pm 
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your missing the point here
I feel that everybody is missing my point. Its not that I can't tune this thing, it that I don't want to. I thought a pony with proper nutrition and shelter could plow the field. I feel that its going to require an ox to make it happen.

On a side note:
Have you ever watched Who Wants to be an Millionaire? I have never seen the oddience poll be wrong? If we were to poll them and a bunch of guys at the track what do you think theyd say? A. The Slant6 is a crapy engine. B. The Slant6 has the most power potental of any Mopar on the planet and I fear it. C. The Slant6 is a great little long lasting can't kill it engine. D.We see Slant6s every week at the track just killing the big blocks. I got to get one.

We all know its not A,B or D

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