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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:12 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: California
Car Model: 1964 Dart GT
Ok, I am done. Good luck with whatever you do with the Baracuda.

AZ


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 4:39 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
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You can continue tuning, but things will change when you put the converter in. Might be best to wait unitl it's in. Good to hear you're back in the game. Make sure the 3000 is rated for a Slant and not just a V8. Should be a pretty quick car when that goes in. I gained about 1 sec in the 1/4 when I installed my 3000 converter in the Valiant!

Lou
True dat. It will become a completely different animal.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:48 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I have been told that trying to tune the carburator that I have, which is the Truck Advenger 470cfm, for use on a car is a waste of time because it was designed for use on a truck. I say so what. I'll never use some of the added features like rock climbing at a 45 degree angle, but I think that this carb wouldn't be lacking any performance. I picked this carb because of the CFM. I have a few more cubic inches than most slants and thought the 390 might be on the small size.
Link of my carb.
http://www.holley.com/0-90470.asp

Link to a possiable Holley carb if you think the truck carb is a poor choice.
http://www.holley.com/0-1848-1.asp

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:18 am 
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Your post has been very helpful. I'll remain clueless if you don't mind.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:56 am 
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That looks like an excellent carb, since it is relatively immune to cornering/accel/braking forces. A very nice size too. The fact it is "for a truck" has nothing to do with it's performance. You can tune it. Secondary opening, jets, and accelerator pump shot (put in a pump shot cam with longer/heavier squirt) are where I would start.

If secondaries are easy to adjust, back them all the way off in one direction (fast opening), make a couple of runs to see response, go to the middle of the range and make more runs, and go all the way to the other end of the range (slow opening) and see how you do.

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:22 am 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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I dont think carbs know if they are on a truck or car......and if they did they can be easily tricked.

I think your carb choice is a very good place to start.

Your tuning steps are in the right direction and will yield results in time.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:14 pm 
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Talked to the Holley tech support about this and I was surprized to hear what they had to say. Basicly this Truck carb has lots of compermizes built in to it. Very confusing but something about extra porting around the metering block to help stop flood over in extreme angles. Some thing also to do with the air bleeds. They said "This carb will provide poor throttle responce and poor fuel mileage." They recommended the 570 Street Advenger. This carb is a 510 CFM 4 barrel. The 570 or 70 is some sort of marketing theam.

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Last edited by Bren67Cuda904 on Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:49 pm 
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Carb tuning is where it's at for this stage of the build.

I can spend hours tuning one until I get it right or until I have exhausted all possibilites and try another one.

I run a 500 Cfm Carb on my 232 CI motor and I have tried 4 different carberuetors over the years - they were all very similar carter 4 BBl's and It did take me a while (6 years) to learn what to do to get the desired results.

Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Peachtree Corners, GA
Car Model: 1963 Plymouth Valiant
heh, I wish I'd read this thread before I wrote the response in the "Other" forum. Keep tuning, and be meticulous.

As for the truck carb not doing well, I'd keep at it before I gave up. The air bleeds tend to have a pretty small effect (ie - everything else needs to be damn close before you notice that they're wrong). I'm going to guess that the air bleeds are set rich on the truck carb... not easily remedied, unless it's got replace-able air bleeds.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:23 pm 
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Install the 570 Street Advenger. At this point I am very happy. :D :D Ran prettey good out of the box with Orange cam, 54 primary jet, 65 secondary, silver spring, 85 power valve, 31 nozzle.
I was running a bit lean under part throtlle and rich wide open.
There are a few steps to this point but I ended up with:
Orange cam
56 primary
57 secondary
45 power valve
31 nozzle
Silver spring. (still need to play with the spring yet)

Now I am running at part throttle to moderate throttle. 15:1 +- .5
Under full throttle 13.5:1 +-.5
No bog off the line.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:16 pm 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
Cool! Progress is being made. :D

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 Post subject: bren car
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:27 pm 
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Posts: 1237
Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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keep with it you will be more satisfied with the results. slantsixs are the best :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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This converter is or was designed/built to run behind a slant. Its also suppost to be a 3000 stall. Do converters loosen up with use? This one seems to be stalling around 2400 rpm.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:09 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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does it feel stronger with the new carb?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:52 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
As far as I know, converters do not "break in". They are supposed to stall their rated stall right out of the box. :shock:

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