I did not realize you were getting detonation at light throttle. You are right, water injection would not fix that problem with the style of kits that are now on the market. The correct cam is important here, as you have already figured out. I can tell you, Lou's 64 runs like a bat out of hell. I would respect his opinions on this. Jess's link is also worth exploring, simply because of the strong endorsement he gives. If he will not tell you numbers up front however, I would ask for a few references you can chek with. That is just too trusting at this point. You already put your faith in a guy who said your engine would be stronger than a 440, and his word was not supported by the results. So do some checking around before you decide. If he is too arrogant to give you numbers or references, "No thank you" is in order.

Sam

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Arrogants has nothing to do with it. The fact that there is many of his cams holding records all over speaks for itself. But there are many people that can give first hand before and after results of his work. But he does not intend to put in hours of work to design a cam for you to let some other cam grinder make. And that is exactly what will be put into the cam design, many hours of design. Not just someone saying that this lobe works for them or that. It will be designed for each and every inch of your setup, and that is where the results come form in each & every cam he makes for all. And this is with expeirance all across the board, not just drag car or N/A setups. Turbos, blowers, NOS car,street, street strip, ect,ect. People that are above & beyound dont just go around handing out info that is what could be called trade secrets.


Just so you know, I have no connection what so ever. I am just suggesting what & who I know of that is the best from expeirance. I am sure others have people that they feel the same way about. One thing you will do if he grinds you a cam, and that is give him more info about your car than any other cam grinder. Info that you may have to find out yourself before you can give it.


Is he the only one that can grind a good cam for your combo? ofcourse not. But I do feel he will cut the best cam for what you need, and what you want out of a car.

Anyway, I gave enough info that he can be contacted dirrectly & contact can be made with others that have used his work. You can deside.


Good Luck Jess

I just looked at the Schneider site. They do have more exh than intake duration. I would ask them to swap the lobes, then it would work better.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

If you are getting detonation at part throttle. Make sure you have the correct powervalve in. Also, you can always open up the PVCR holes too, to improve part throttle fueling. I'd try that befor a cam change.

bren, have you considered playing a little bit with dyno 2003 or other simulators? you have invested quite a bit of money into checking and rechecking things (dyno hours, I bet you had your head flowed, etc) maybe you can provide the best solution if you read a little about camshafts, lobe profiles, LSA's, etc... not to suggest you'er LAZY, but maybe, since you have already watched other people set your money on fire... you can get a kick out of stepping up and do good or wrong by yourself... after all, it's a camshaft...

you seem to be just around turning your 260 into a low 14's mid 13's car... c´mon and stop being so conservative... I have done so with my camshaft and while it's true that I'm not 100% satisfied, the previous cam that was in my motor was "secretly" desinged by an autoproclamed guru and was crappier than a stocker one. The only regret that I have with my cam is that I choosed to go low lift for reving up faster and easier on the valvetrain... and I got cold feet when doing the headwork... $#!+ happens, well, let it be yours!

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

In regards to doing my own homework on camshafts. It this point I really know very little and if I learned 20x's what I already know about them it would still be wise to ask people that know more. Surely you can agree with this.
Talked with Howard Cams (they ground my cam) and after telling them what I have going on, they believe that my problems will go way if the cam is installed straight up. They also said I should be able to push the ignition timing back up around 30*. As some of you know this cam was not degreed properly and ended up 5.5* advanced.
The reason that I haven't corrected that "problem" is that so many of "you" dismissed it and had me believe that it would help but not enough and I really just needed a different cam. I figured I would be best to take apart the engine one time.
If I hadn't taken the CR measurements myself, I would doubt that this would fix it. But I did and its still a 10.1:1 motor and it just might be an advanced cam after all.
I plan to change the cam timing back 5.5*s.
Can someone point me to the correct bushing or method for doing this? After the timing change I'll do another compression check before I bolt it back together and hope its below 190psi.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I agree totally with them on bringing the advance back. To be honest I thought you have already done it.

Look back on your builds threads for your engine, 9th page, 6th post down.

Still yet, I think a new cam can do wanders for you. But you can anwser alot of question by retarding the cam back. Then if it runs to your wants, your good to go. If it helps, but not enough, you know what you need to do.


Good Luck Jess

Yeah, Ain't that something? I knew I had the numbers right...
I still went back to the site; and thought the same thing: Swap the lobes! The lift is great, but that cam would explode if they swaped the lobes around.

I thought Bren had already put the cam straight up too.....Maybe that'll fix it for you, and save you time/money/headache.
Mopar to ya'!
BBB

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

me too

If I were you I'd take a stab in the dark and try to loosen that timing cover, access to the cam sprocked and do my math to see if moving one teeth retarding that cam does the trick... if not... well, you were about to swap it. If it does the trick you ain't got nothing to loose.

I agree with your thoughts about the cam learning thing. and I agree with Jess

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Does anyone know how many teeth are on a roller cam gear? Is my math right 360/5.5* = 65.45 teeth. Moving cam gear on the chain 1 tooth will move about 5.5* if their is 65-66 teeth on the cam gear. I don't think theres that many teeth.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

http://tinyurl.com/2pretp

Looks like 50-52 teeth from this picture.
Does anyone know what brand cam gear this is? I think it has a hole only big enough for the cam peg to fit into. I don't think a cam bushing will work with this type of gear. I believe that some have used a die grinder to slot the hole and filled the unused area with filler metal.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I think there's 56. That math would result in around 6.4 degrees of retard per jumped teeth. I'll take the stab, honestly... I'm not sending you on goose chasing. I think there's nothing to loose... even better given the fact that you will compensate the "weaker" low end with the higher stall converter... ballpark you can end up with what, 20, 30 pounds less torque? the HP gain will compensate and the cranking pressure would be greatly reduced... for your static compression readings I'd say I think that 5.5° advanced is on the optimistic side... (meaning: I think it's MORE advanced than 5.5°)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I am not sure this is right. The cam is 5.5* advanced in relation to crank shaft rotation. I think the cam needs to be moved 2.25*.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

well I'm sure some gearhead is going to rescue me, a bonehead who thinks he's smartpants enough to give advice!

But...

it this is reversed? if it's 5.5° crank degrees and the cam needs to be moved 11° to be @ zero? that can sure work! if you have 50 teeth you just jump ONE tooth and keep a little bit advanced...

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

You should just be able to drill the gear. The offset bushing kit comes with instructions & tells the size drill bit to use. This way all that has to be done to change advance/retard is change the bushing. Each bushing will allow you to go both directions for the amount of degree it is labled (depending on which way you turn it). Its no biggy, and you can try several differnt degree's to see what it likes.


Jess