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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:57 pm 
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Supercharged

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Doc, If your figures are right, then it looks to me like the cam is the only thing giving him trouble here. And, it seems as if the smaller centerline number would reduce the cranking pressure, as well as timing it either slightly retarded, or straight up. But your figures would indicate no need to retard the cam, if he wants to run it on the street. Do you know how the 64 CC's combustion chamber was calculated? Was it calculated, or just guessed at? Is there a chance it is smaller than that? I'm just trying to figure if there is a chance his compression ratio is hgiher than 10:1.

Bren, once you get this worked out, you still need a higher stall converter, but that is another issue. That should eliminate your low end bog.

Sam

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:05 pm 
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I have driven Lous car.

Find out what grind he has and dont wander far.

Lous car will leave at an idle (5 speed) and pulls hard to prolly 6000+.

The compression is similar and the performance is prolly exactly where you thought you shoulds be .

Just for the record I think everyone is telling you the same thing about what cam to order. Its just we all have different sized marbles in our mouths.

If you wont take out compression: then you must add cam to match.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:08 pm 
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I have the old cam out and still waiting for the new one which should be here today or tomorrow.
Opon inspecting the old cam I noticed even ware around the lobe except at the tip whare it widens a bit. Black on both sides of the lobe and a shiney path in the center. The shiney path at the tip is twice as wide as the path on the rest of the lobe. It looks correct to me but just checking with the pros.
I'd post a picture but I can't seem to find my camera. :cry:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:24 pm 
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That ware pattarn is pretty normal. The forward edge of the lifter really rides on the lobe at a angle, touching heavy on one side. This is what spins the lifter to help it live. But when the lobe lifts the lifter, it picks the forward edge up off the lobe. So then the lobe end (crown/top) almost has full contact with the bottom center of the lifter.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:20 pm 
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Bren,

Stick with it, buddy.

That cam wear pattern sounds fine to me.

If I already had the old cam out and new cam coming, I would probably just throw it in there and try it. 250 @ 0.050" is quite a bit more than 240, and 110 LSA will not totally change how the motor runs compared to 106. You should gain some performance and drivability, and can try a different cam later.

Sandy, I did a little more EFI tuning last week, and the 64 leaves a stop even easier than before - pretty nice.

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:40 am 
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Lou, start a thread about that in the EFI section. I am very interested in the changes you made, and how it effected performance and drivability.
Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:50 pm 
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I am concidering adding 2 additional quarts of oil during cam breakin. It is my understanding that the cam gets most of its lubrication from flying oil from the crank and rods, hence the reason for an RPM of at least 2000. It would seem to me that adding a couple extra quarts would add to the windage and flying oil and help. Is there a down side or it won't make much difference?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 7:22 pm 
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I am not sure about the oil, but how are you going to degree in your cam? Do you have a dgree wheel, and the bushing set needed to adjust the offset?

The problem I see with the extra oil is that this can cause the oil to foam, and not pick up as well. That slant cam is in a galley that is pretty much sealed off from the splash in the pan. JUst make sure to use the break in oil suggested. I've installed several cams over the years, and never had a problem. I have heard of guys forgetting to refill the engine after draining the break in oil. That would be a real heartbreak. Pour plenty of the break in oil on the cam itself before start up.

Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:17 pm 
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The SL6 cam gets a bunch of "splash oil" from the crank and rods. The cam is located right next to the rotating crankshaft assembly and the direction of rotation throws lots of oil at it.

Use the correct assembly lube when you install the cam and use good oil at the proper level during break-in and you should not have a problem.

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Do mark all your push rods with a dot or a line and look at each one of them upon start-up, if they are spinning, everything is good. If you have a push rod (& lifter) that does not spin, you need to fix it fast or it will flatten the cam lobe.
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 4:30 am 
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Quote:
Picked up some cam bushings today and installed the correct one to move the advanced timing back to straight up which according to the cam card, its 14* @50. (used a degree wheel)
Cam is in but still needs to be degreed. I am going to run a compression test before I put it all back together. Was at a stopping point because I couldn't find the new oil pump gasket. Didn't really want to crank the engine without some oil pressure. By the way I am replacing the oil pump with a high volume one at this time. Seemed like the right time to do it. :) I also ground in a very lite grove in the rear most cam journal (on the cam itself as earlier discribed). I was getting some oil to the rockers before but it sure didn't seem like much. I also compaired the drilled oil holes in the new cam to the old cam and they look the same. I plan to set the oil pressure around 55-60psi.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:20 am 
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Quote:
I am concidering adding 2 additional quarts of oil during cam breakin. It is my understanding that the cam gets most of its lubrication from flying oil from the crank and rods, hence the reason for an RPM of at least 2000. It would seem to me that adding a couple extra quarts would add to the windage and flying oil and help. Is there a down side or it won't make much difference?
Without going back thru this thread. Didn't you groove the lifter bores, or was that someone else in a different thread? If you grooved the bores, that should give plenty of oil to the cam lobes. I would not over fill the pan.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:23 am 
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That was me. I am an over kill kind of guy. Sounds like normal oil level it will be.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:47 am 
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Also, wouldn't hurt to add some GM Engine Oil Supliment.

Bren, see if you can get it ready for this event.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24226

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:03 am 
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Quote:
Also, wouldn't hurt to add some GM Engine Oil Supliment.

Bren, see if you can get it ready for this event.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24226
I have some that I plan to add.
Most likely won't be able to make it. The wife will be leaving for a trip to Armenia for 3 weeks soon after that and thats when I'll get to play.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:08 pm 
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Thanks Doc. I knew that. I don' t know what I was thinking. :oops:
Bren it sounds like you are learning alot. Your going to be an old-timer -expert here before too long. :wink:

Sam

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