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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:32 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Now I am running at part throttle to moderate throttle. 15:1 +- .5
Under full throttle 13.5:1 +-.5
I must first say that this engine dos'nt burn a drop of oil.
Coming home from a show last night I nailed it as I do often. This time it was dark with headlights behind me and there is a black cloud all thw way up the on ramp. I don't get it. The Air Fuel ratio meter says it 13.5:1 Is that still to rich?
White cars behind beware :evil:

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Dos anybody know if that 13.5:1 is enough fuel? My AF/ratio is now going down to 12:1 under boost, and detonation is gone. It seems you might be a little lean, but then I don;t know carbs anymore. The guy who does my welding has a big, new Chevy Pickup with a 350 he has tricked out with nitrous, and all kinds of lookgood stuff, and he is not out of the 16's yet. High 14's is getting pretty respectable. Keep going. You will find one thing after the other that will get it better and better. And, it will be cooler than a BB.

Sam

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
...and there is a black cloud all thw way up the on ramp.
Where there is combustion, there is smoke. It is not uncommon to see a big puff of smoke when you "nail-it" after cruzing the engine before hand, basically, you are shaking loose carbon and soot and sending it out the tailpipe. Headlights behind the exhaust stream helps you see how much "stuff" an engine actually puts-out.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 10:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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It also could be that you have a small exhaust leak somewhere upstream of, or close to, the O2 sensor. This is VERY common with headers. If there is a leak, it will make it look like it's more lean than it really is. I don't think you should see a big cloud, but some small amt of soot is OK.

If you are actually rich, that can sap a lot of power!

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:52 pm 
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It takes very little exhaust leak to take the A/F ratio right out of any EFI setup. I cant even open the headers on my work truck and drive around the yard without clobbering the tune.

Placement of the O2 sensor is important.

in terms of wiring , sensing , longevity

I have had brand new O2 sensors come borked right out of the box.

Dont you have DDs Bren?....and a Y ? wheres yer bung lad?

Turns out you are a scientist after all. Cool to see man.

I may have to rethink my pinks challenge.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:37 pm 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
Congrats on sticking with it Bren! 14's in that car is really good. :D :D :D

Now get it to the track and get some hard data. :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:19 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I do have exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor. One on the stock manifold flange. Its not centered and therefor the gasket won't seal. I have to also say I did not make this head pipe. A new cleaner one is in the making. At the car car shows it the one thing that gets the rolling eyes. :roll: I should have never paid the man for this crap.
A picture if you'd like to see the pile of Sh*t.
http://tinyurl.com/29gjby
http://tinyurl.com/yp8k5v

He didn't even stepup in pipe size. :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:19 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:32 pm
Posts: 380
Location: California
Car Model: 1964 Dart GT
You can get some of that just due to the fact that you have a newly rebuilt engine. Things are still getting situated with the rings. Are you still running 25% racing fuel? This might contribute to the build up of carbon.

AZ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Quote:
Dos anybody know if that 13.5:1 is enough fuel? My AF/ratio is now going down to 12:1 under boost, and detonation is gone. It seems you might be a little lean, but then I don;t know carbs anymore. The guy who does my welding has a big, new Chevy Pickup with a 350 he has tricked out with nitrous, and all kinds of lookgood stuff, and he is not out of the 16's yet. High 14's is getting pretty respectable. Keep going. You will find one thing after the other that will get it better and better. And, it will be cooler than a BB.

Sam
It's a bit on the lean side, but not crazy lean, for a naturally aspirated motor. It may be safer to run around 12.8:1 on an NA motor. Turbo motors often need to be a bit richer to stave off detonation.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:24 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I order to try to keep this thread more readable I've decided to link to sub catagories.
Eileens plug reading thread.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 788#146788

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 Post subject: wow my eyes hurt
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 2:00 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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I just read all 20 pages of this thread and i have to say it's 5 in the morning and my eyes hurts but man I love slant sixes can't wait to start my rebuild i'm gonna try to keep it simple since i'm a beginner dont wanna mess anything up.
1974duster 198ci slant six stock internals with
clifford 3 into 1 headers
clifford intake
4bbl390cfm holley
11.85 in the 1/8 mile stock gears with 15's rims and 255's in back so i guess worse than stock gear ratio :(
4.10'S COMING SOON POSI

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:19 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
If you already have a 198, you should get yourself a 225 crankshaft and some 2.2 pistons and build yourself a "long rod" 225 SL6.
DD


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 Post subject: Camshaft change
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 1:32 pm 
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Planning a camshaft change. Follow along at...
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 775#147775

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:51 am 
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Moving back from cam selecting.
Quote:
I am going to pull the motor and send it back to the builder. He said he could add cc's to the head for a total of 83cc's (should be 9.5:1CR) and put my old cam back in. Cost- one 30lb can of R-22 refrigerant and one gallon and coil cleaner. :D
Seeing as the motor will be out and at the builder making some corrections. Is there anything I should do differently? I will follow blindly. Should the cam be installed back at its orignal 5.5*advanced or straight up.
One thing that has bothered me is that it won't burn the tires. I know for best 1/4 times thats not good but its fun. (235-60-15) Maybe with the lower CR I'll be able to bump the timing and be able to do so?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:15 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
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Quote:

One thing that has bothered me is that it won't burn the tires?
Are you serious? :shock:
Just a short note....I rebuilt my slant with .040 over flatop pistons, and shaved .100 off the block. I figure compression to be around 9.25-1.
I did pocket port the head, but other than that all the iron is stock. It has a Schneider 264/.480 solid cam, advanced by about 15*.(yep) I run tight lash, it always fires right up, and has a sound that I love. People think it's a small-block. It will smoke both the 205-70-R14's with 2.76 gears. And it has a Holley 1-bbl.
Now, I'm not trying to rub salt in a wound....but your motor should be twice what mine is! When you get that thing right...it will run like a champ. And you will be proud of it! I was close to putting a 318 in my Swinger, but I'm so glad I kept the Slant. I get more questions and dropped jaws about that engine than anything I've ever had.
Keep at it, and you'll enjoy it later. Good Luck!

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225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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