On my '64 Valiant wagon the fuel door is located really low on the quarter, lower than the sedans I think. The geometry of the filler pipe is so slight that hard cornering will slosh fuel out through the cap. I've tried everything to seal it but I need some assistance that doesn't involve moving the filler hole up. Is there a kit that will refurbish my old gas cap? Or an aftermarket cap that will work.

All the '60-'66 A-bodies are prone to this issue, and have been since the very first time the very first '60 Valiant was filled up. It's a damnuisance! A good-sealing gas cap is a must. They're hard to find for these cars any more. Depending on which type of cap your car has, you may be able to restore its seals. Can you describe the cap you've got?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My cap is the standard large chrome unit with the philips head screw holding the locking center, then what looks like a leather ring and finally a brass ring that may at one time have been a spring of sorts.

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OK, that's a Stant G-27 cap you've got there. Not a factory item, but a good-quality old aftermarket unit. These can be restored as long as the brass ring isn't split. That what looks like a leather ring is actually cardboard and when it gets old, it tends to wick the fuel past the seal and dribble it down onto the quarter panel.

Remove the philips head screw and disassemble the cap: Screw, cam insert, big cardboard washer, brass ring, small cardboard washer, cap plate, handle. Take a look at all the parts. The critical ones are all metal; sometimes the brass ring will split and at that point you're outta luck unless you can come up with a good replacement. If the ring isn't split, shop around until you find a good quality 1/16"-thick Neoprene or Silicone washer the same size/shape as the original big cardboard washer. I used to be able to buy these right off the shelf at A&A Tradin' Post, a big hardware store in Denver, with the correct inner and outer diameter. It's worth your while to shop around until you find the right ones; if you have to cut a "not quite right" one, especially at the inner diameter, the likelihood of a good seal is greatly reduced. The small cardboard washer should likewise be duplicated in high-grade rubber. Pay careful attention to the thickness; it's tempting to get thicker washers, but stick with the stock thickness, otherwise the cap won't go on easily and you'll wind up splitting that important brass ring.

Clean up the parts before you reassemble with new washers. Make sure the brass ring is clean and smooth, then smear the tank side of it with silicone grease (such as Sil-Glyde) before assembling the cap. Be sure to "clock" the cam insert correctly relative to the handle, so that when the cap is installed on the car, the handle bar is horizontal, not vertical. Tighten the central screw almost all the way, then grasp the edges of the big rubber washer and pull outwards at a few points along its outer edge. The inner diameter of the washer is just slightly smaller than the cardboard original, and it needs not to be trapped between the cam insert and the cap plate, otherwise the cam insert won't be securely fixed to the handlebar's drive square, and you risk being unable to remove the cap from the car.

Inspect the top of the filler neck to see if it's got any serious nicks or dents; these can and should be smoothed and/or filled.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow, thanks my all-knowing friend I will try that and let you know how it flys next time I fill up. Not to high jack my own post bit do you know a fix-it for a speed-o of the same vintage or would it be proper to make a separate post so others can benefit from the repair. This seems like a real weak point, it's actually my third Mopar with a bad speed-o, either that or I'm really lucky.

Hey look, I figured out how to post photos on my signature. Gold star for me.

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Just last summer we found a stant cap for a mid 80s Jeep application that fit. It is black, not chrome. The handle is straight, not the "spinner style" like the stock one.
We removed the two screws that hold the handle on, removed the ugly safety label, reclocked the outer shell to the inside so the handle was horizontal and put it back together. It looks good with the black vinyl top on our car or it could be painted body color. For a show the old cap can always be put back on.

We still have a new original that my Grandfather hoarded years ago for his 65, but have decided not to risk losing it for daily driving.

Pull it and send it to:

DeLuxe Speedometer & Radio
1976 Bannock Street
Denver, CO, 80223
Ph# 303-629-6958

for rebuild-and-return service.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The stock caps for A-bodies had a straight handle bar. The S-shaped handle bar is on Stant aftermarket caps. I wonder what Jeep application you found that fits. It's not the Cherokee cap, 'cause that's a screw-in type cap behind a fuel door. In '85, the CJ7 and the Grand Wagoneer originally used a chrome cap of dimensions that look rather familiar to me (just going off memory with the '60-'66 A-body cap), such as this stant 10811:

Is that the one you got? It's entirely possible somebody was marketing it in black, too. Anyone want to go get an '85 Grand Wagoneer cap, a Stant 10811, and see if it fits on a '60-'66 A-body?
How'd you go about doing that? I know how to do it on a G27, because those have a central screw holding the cam to the cap plate, but the Jeep caps were all pressure-vacuum type, with the vent valve in the middle where the screw would go.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

We just moved three months ago and have been spending all our spare time on the house, trying to get certain things done before winter hits the mountain here. Most of the car stuff is still boxed, there is a locking cap on the dart right now.

I'll check tomorrow, I think the other cap is in the trunk, and the cars original in the box it came in packed away. I probably have the part number in my notebook for the car too, wherever it ended up.

The reclocking was a matter of holding the inside section with a rag and channel locks and giving the outer shell a firm twist. Other than the different (plastic) handle this cap is very close to the original, but black.

It was of course not listed for these cars, the one that was listed is for later models and will not clamp down. A good parts guy in Ferndale WA. spent the time to look in boxs until we came up with something.

When I find something I'll post the part number.