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 Post subject: heat riser removal
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:18 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:37 am
Posts: 272
Location: oceanside Ca
Car Model:
Searched forum about this, only a couple of posts, Living in southern CA its always warm (lead in) is there any harm removing the heat riser from the exhaust manifold ? Performance gains,losses? Thinking of running Dutra duals so i'd buy the front manifold, cut,gut, weld the other, whatcha' all think?

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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Removing the heat riser will mean heating up the underside of the intake manifold full time. Only if you actually physically block off the top of the exhaust manifold (by replacing the intake-to-exhaust gasket with a blockoff plate of the correct thickness) or simply rotate the heat riser to the counterclockwise (heat-off) position and disconnect the spring so it stays there, will you reduce the amount of heat applied to the underside of the intake. There's little performance to be gained by doing so, though.

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 Post subject: anyone done this?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:05 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:37 am
Posts: 272
Location: oceanside Ca
Car Model:
Does anyone have experience with this??? Block off plate should be how thick?

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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It can't be thicker than the gasket, or it'll throw the manifolds out of alignment with the head.

You seem bound and determined to do this mod. Any particular reason? What is it you're hoping to gain?

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2233
Location: Everett, WA
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Dan is actually wrong on this account. Removing the heat riser is a good way for your carburetor to ice up not heat up as Dan implies

Removing the heat riser may not be a problem in sunny California, but up here in the misty Pacific Northwest it is a real problem. You need some heat for your carburetor, for it to work correctly. Especially with a in-line engine a V engine is another story.

And Dan, before you come back and say I am full of it, I have run without the heat riser for 5 years now. The bottom of the intake manifold is cool to the touch. It is one of the reasons I used a water heated plate under my MC 2100 install.


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 Post subject: less is more
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:48 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:37 am
Posts: 272
Location: oceanside Ca
Car Model:
Less is more is the best as I can describe it. I kinda like the old hot rod mentality, if it isn't vital strip it off. I own a hot rod lincoln ,462 .60 over, 10:5 compression, solid isky roller cam .502 lift,roller rockers,MSD everything,holley 750, blah blah.Thus the lic parts name (63 continental). I chopped off the roof and such. It was subframe braced,welded,reinforced, and all the windows were removed,regulators, A/c, insulation etc. Lightened the load 600 lbs from 5200 to 4600, ! :shock: So i figured less clutter in the engine compartment,less things to go wrong .I'm going super six (ordered AUS gasket set) and i'll have no choke, no riser, and dutra's next, so i guess its my style. Seems to me a little better air flow, a 170 auto wagon needs all the help it can get.People in Ca drive fast and keeping up can be a bit of a challenge. I'm not ready for stage 2 in this build ( shave, cam,3.91,etc) so thats why.

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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Quote:
Dan is actually wrong on this account.
We agreed lonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng ago not to dredge up this argument again, remember? :-D

Here, have a beer.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 10:50 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Looking at the design of the Slant 6 heat riser.......

It seems to me that exhaust gas flow would be smoother and less turbulent with it there.............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:20 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:37 am
Posts: 272
Location: oceanside Ca
Car Model:
boring out the exhaust manifold to 2.25" at its exit. Seems easy enough, anyone done this? How large is it in its stock configuration?

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:53 am 
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Location: North America
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Stock outlet is 2". You can bore it slightly, but not to 2¼". And if you're running Dutra Duals, there's no need to bore at all.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject: thanks Dan!
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:19 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:37 am
Posts: 272
Location: oceanside Ca
Car Model:
Thanks Dan! :D I really appreciate your insight on this forum and all of your help. Being new to mopars this has been a great learning experience, and thanks to all who reply to my posts and put up with my sometimes wild questions, Your all helping to save a 63 wagon from death!!

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2233
Location: Everett, WA
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Quote:
Quote:
Dan is actually wrong on this account.
We agreed lonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng ago not to dredge up this argument again, remember? :-D

Here, have a beer.

Image
Did we... We have disagreed about several things, so I lose track, Any way, you are wrong...


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