Hi, all. Long time reader, first time poster.

I recently had a '71 Scamp (sans motor) fall into my lap for $200. I'd like to turn this into my daily driver--lots more fun than the cookie cutter cars I see on the road every day. I'm thinking turbo slant 6. I'd like 275-300 dependable hp. EFI? possibly. Am I being too optimistic?

Money is not an issue and I'd rather spend on the right parts to insure I don't end up behind a tow truck, and I'm not into cutting and welding to cobble something up. Current plans include an 8 3/4 rearend and big bolt pattern axles. Handling is key, so I'm thinking tubular upper control arms and better front discs, along with 17" wheels for better rubber. Rack and pinion? You tell me.

I've got a used stock 225 slant 6 to drop into the engine bay to get me around while work progresses. I'd rather solidify a build-up plan than stumble along and have to make changes on the fly. Any and all thoughts are appreciated! I'm brand new to the slant 6 and to A-bodies for that matter, so no suggestion is too simple. Assume I'm completely ignorant. My wife would be only too happy to agree...

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Turbo 6 Wannabe

Welcome to the Forum. Look at older posts or use the search function to browse for ideas. I would go to the EFI section and read then ask some specific questions.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Again, the search function is your friend.

300hp turbocharged, intercooled with EFI is no problem as long as you plan for some cylinder head work, the right sized turbo, good intake plumbing and a generous exhaust system.

Cutting and welding does not equal cobbling something up. If you aren't into fabricating you'll need to find someone that is and be prepared to pay good money for good work. You may, however, have a big problem finding someone that is capable of doing good work.

You do not need tubular upper control arms for good handling. Save some money and just use Moog offset upper control arm bushings. Money for handling needs to go into good shocks, big torsion bars, sway bar(s), and replacement of anything in the steering that's worn. Chassis stiffening should be given very serious consideration. Subframe connectors and torque boxes help a lot.

My road race '66 Dart used 1.04" torsion bars, QA1 shocks, 1 1/8" front sway bar, 6 leaf rear springs with poly bushings, Moog offset upper control arm bushings, nylon lower control arm bushings that I made, and 15x7" aluminum Mirada wheels with 225/50R15 Kumho Victoracers. Oh, I also had big subframe connectors, a roll cage and a somewhat reinforced K-member. The car understeered a little and could have used a 1/2-5/8" rear sway bar for ballance, but still worked quite well. The later K-member in my '72 Swinger got more reinforcement as it appeared to need it. Believe it or not the race car's street ride was quite good. My coworker's '94 Corvette convertible rides much worse.

For street brakes the large bolt pattern discs with Raybestos Super Stop pads SSD84 will do very, very well. If you need more get 11.75" rotors and/or duct air to the rotors. Do not drill or slot the rotors.

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Joshua

Thanks, Frank.

So you think I should start with the motor? I was actually thinking in order of priority:

1. 8 3/4" rearend with big bolt pattern axles, 11" drums, rear suspension
2. tubular upper control arms, poly suspension, big front disc upgrade (rack and pinion?)
3. 17" wheels/tires
4. motor/904 transmission shift kit

I kind of wanted to prep the car for the additional power rather than have the power first and then start breaking things because the rest of the car can't handle it. Once I have the plan in place regarding the order of how to do the upgrades, then I can start looking for specific suggestions in the appropriate sections. Does this make more sense? Again, any and all suggestions are appreciated...

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Turbo 6 Wannabe

11" drums are overkill and add unneeded weight. 10" finned drums can be found on early Dakotas, Aspen and Volare Wagons and others.

Tubular upper control arms are a waste of money for most people. Poly bushings are good in most places, but if you put serious tires on the car and use them you can deform and loosen poly lower control arm bushings. Most poly strut rod bushings are too thick and push the LCA rearward. This hurts caster.

Rack and pinion steering is expensive if you have the fab work done and unless you use a good shop the steering geometry is likely going to be worse than stock after it's done.

If you want to use street tires 16" is pretty much the minimum. 17x8" Mustang wheels (up to 2004 I think) fit pretty well, but need a spacer or wider rear end to fit the back properly. I have an 8" Ford rear axle in my '72 Swinger to fit the Mustang wheels without spacers.

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Joshua

Joshua-
Thanks for all the good info. So I may be way off base on some of the necessary parts, but do you think my process is good? 1.Rearend, 2.suspension/brakes/wheels, 3.motor?

I AM planning on torque boxes and subframe connectors. No cage since this will be a street car. (I take my dogs to work with me everyday and it will be hard enough to get them into the back seat in a two-door.)

I've got adjustable Rancho shock in my '70 'Cuda, and I like those. Likewise, a BIG front sway bar and torsion bars were right on with my thinking. I heard Unisteer is working on a rack and pinion for A-bodies, which is why I was thinking about that. Their unit is a bolt-on, so no fabricating necessary.

I'm definitely thinking 17" wheels, so I can easily fit 11.75" discs. I've collected all the parts to do Mopar Action's Viper disc brake upgrade. (I was gonna put them on the 'Cuda, but the Scamp is my new obsession.)

Regarding the motor, as you said, it can be hard to find someone to do good fabrication work. That's why I was more interested in pre-fabbed parts when and wherever possible. You can bet you'll be hearing from me when I get to that stage.

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Turbo 6 Wannabe

Tackling the rear axle first is fine, but I would do the rear springs and poly bushings when the rear end is out. Might as well do the rear shocks at that point too. Also, if you are going with 17x8" Ford wheels you have to make a decision. If you use an A-body 8 3/4 housing with cut down factory axles from a D100 or C-body wagon you'll still need to make up about 1 to 1 1/4" in width to use +30mm offset Ford wheels. The alternative would be to narrow an 8 3/4 from something else. Other (than A-body) 8 3/4s are usually cheaper so it will help offset the housing labor. I have a '68 C-body rear end I'm planning on narrowing for my Dart.

XV Motorsports was supposed to be making A body subframe connectors. If you can actually get some from them you'll have the slickest subframe connectors going. If you were to duplicate XV's inner fender braces, lower radiator support brace and engine compartment brace along with the subframe connectors and torque boxes you'll have a very stiff chassis.

I'd ask Unisteer for before and after bump steer plots before spending your money with them. If they can't or won't provide bump steer results (real numbers, not just "it drives fine") I'd spend my money on other parts of the car.

Ahh, Viper brakes. Now I understand the big wheels and rotors. I know someone with 275/40R17 wheels under a '68 Valiant. He has the same brakes, but also has a healthy 360 and does track events.

Search the site for the Jager's Fabrication Dart. The exhaust header they built looks pretty good. I'd like the pipes to come off the head a little straighter, but it's still the best /6 turbo header I've seen yet.

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Joshua

Yes, rear suspension will definitely be handled at the same time as the 7 1/4" comes out. You mentioned springs...I was just planning on HD springs. Do you have a different recommendation? Why do I keep seeing posts raving about the Mustang wheels? I was just planning on 17x7 AR Torq Thrusts. I can get them with the proper back spacing to fit a stock A-body 8 3/4" and won't have to deal with cutting the axle housing or axles. Why Ford wheels and all the extra work rather than something aftermarket that comes ready to fit?

I got my 3-point seatbelts from XV Motorsports. When I was last at their site, they had next to nothing for A-bodies--all E and B body. I'll check them out again, thanks.

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Turbo 6 Wannabe

Welcome gofish make sure what you want. Its hard to have a all purpose car. fast strip car fast street car or both or a daily driver. You can have some of the above but not all of the above. We can help you spend your money wisley but what is your goal. Throwing money at something may not bring the best results. Thanks Ron Parker








Im Thinking About St Louie

Thanks, Ron. I was just reading your posts about that header that Joshie225 referred me to. Sweet!

Right you are about knowing what I want. This will NOT be a drag car. I want a car that handles "like a BMW" and I realize there will be a certain amount of discomfort related to a stiff car. I accept that trade-off for a car that can really handle. The occasional day at Willow Springs road course (couple of times a year) could happen. That being said, this will be my daily driver. I just want to drive something more fun than the cookie-cutter cars I see everywhere. I could also drop a small block V8 in this, but what's the fun in doing something so "normal."

I kind of look at it like this. I can afford to go out and buy a new Camry, and it will be "reliable." That's not enough. I want something fun and different, something that has everything the Camry does and more. The Scamp won't be a cookie cutter car, and if I add every bell and whistle, it will still cost less than the Camry.

So bottom line, I want a quick, well-handling car with decent fuel economy that still has some teeth stoplight to stoplight, and that pops some eyeballs when I open the hood at the Friday night cruise.

Maybe I DO want it all...

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Turbo 6 Wannabe

The HD factory leaf springs are actually a pretty decent choice. Until I actually drive my '72 Swinger I can't say how my Mopar Performance oval track springs perform. The oval track springs have fewer, thicker leaves than factory springs.

Mustang wheels are cheap, don't weigh too much and other than the center register being a little small they bolt right on. If you're only going to use a 7" wide wheel you're better off staying with 15s as the wheel and tire will be lighter. If you want bling, fine. I want grip and that means a wide tire in a good compound. That's why I chose 17" wheels. If I could get 245/50R15s for a decent price I'd use them.

Stock A-body 8 3/4s are small bolt pattern and if you can find one for $300 or less, complete, you're doing quite well. Are you having custom wheels made? Or are you having the axles and drums redrilled and suffering the smaller center register? I had shortened C-body wagon axles in mine and it was 3/4" wider than stock.

Ford wheels aren't that much extra work once the center register is bored out. On the front they are almost zero extra work. With the flat upper ball joint and no zerk fitting they bolt right on. This gets you an 8" wide wheel on the front with little mechanical work and if you don't run too tall a tire, no body work. To use the same wheel on the back you need spacers or a wider rear axle. The 8" Ford Granada rear end bolts right into an A-body and is the proper width. The '65-'67 B-body rear end works, but it a little wider than optimum and requires the spring perches to be moved in.

Right now my Mustang Mach 1 wheels are on my Dakota.

http://alltimeracing.com/v2/images/zoom ... G_2682.jpg

I use the grip.

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Joshua