thanks again for the help.
Since I got the car I been driving it everyday for about a year now and the smoking never seemed to stay gone. It would come and go every other week or so. The engine I believe is orignal because the last few numbers in the VIN is stamped on the ledge on the passenger side of the engine and also on the transmission bellhousing. So, I think it is the original engine but, not about the miles oh, and the engine color is blue
also:
Not really. He drove it back and forth to school on the streets for his senior year and it sat for about a year after that until I bought it. He started it thought every other month or so to move it off and on the streets so it wouldn't collect tickets.

How long should i run that stuff in there? I drive the car like everyday to/ from work which is about 10 minutes from my house.

thanks guys!

-Angelo

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1972 Dart Swinger, 225cid

Since you drive such a short distance, I would leave it in there all the time. If your oil is turning black too fast and is too gritty or too thin, use Rislone, it is a little gentler and not so caustic. I would change the oil frequently to keep the engine bearings happy. It may take 6 months or more to clear up since your not even getting it warmed up much.

Does it use much oil? or does it leak out? If not, try some synthetic. It will clean out your engine over time and is gentler yet. That way you can run a thicker viscosity. If your running 10-30 dino oil try 15-40 synthetic. It should work well to clean out the varnish and maintain a quiet valve train. Try some Seafoam in the tank to clean it from the top side. That is a great product for removing carbon build up.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I do not agree with the advice to use synthetic oil in this case. On an engine that uses (burns) and/or loses (leaks) oil, running synthetic is pointless and very costly. Try cleaning out the engine and see if that gets the smoke under control. If it does not, you're looking at rebuilding or replacing the engine. Once you've got a good engine in place that does not use or lose oil, then it might be worth thinking about using synthetic oil.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

Your usually right on, but I have had some good results after flushing over a 6 month period of time, then switching over once the engine cleaned up.
It may be expensive at first, but I have gone through this process on over eight used engines now and have been pleasantly surprised. Little to no oil leaks and or smoking. Working at a junkyard in my youth gave me allot of opportunity to do some testing. I have saved several SL6's, two 318's and the rest were 440's.

In fact before the rebuild on my Dart I was at 365,000 miles before the bad oil filter that collapsed and failed to bypass. It was running just as described in the first post except I never changed the valve guide seals. After synthetic, it never smoked again, or used oil. The oil report we got back from the sample taken after filter collapsed and wiped out the first two rods, then installing another filter to drive it hone 60 miles, came back perfect! No contaminants. That was using Valvoline 20-50 synthetic oil which I had been using for years.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

something aint right with the compression numbers and smoke. Thanks Ron Parker











Im Thinking About St Louie

It's entirely possible for the top two (compression) rings to be still doing their job just fine, but the bottom (oil control) rings to be stuck or clogged or broken, and failing to do theirs.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

With that compression numbers How is the oil getting by the compression rings to smoke like that. Thanks Ron Parker











Im Thinking About St Louie

I can definitely go along with this. It's pouring synth into an engine before it's been cured of its drinking problem (either via flushing or via a rebuild, whichever is called for) that makes me experience sharp shooting pains in the wallet area.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What kind of answer are you after, aside from "easily"? As I said, it's entirely possible for the compression rings to be doing their job and the oil control rings not to be doing theirs.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

With decent compression and oil burning that is not the guides, I lean toward the idea that there is a huge amount of sludge in the engine. The oil rings may be sticking, or the drains behind them clogged. I would use a top engine cleaner, then give it a real good flushing, and then run it with a quart of atf replacing a quart of normal oil until the next oil change, at about 1000 miles. Then flush it again. Don't use too heavy an oil, a 30, 10-30 or 10-40 max. If it seems to be better, keep it on a short oil change interval for awhile after that. Stop using Pennzoil or Quaker state. Run it in a race motor all you want, but don't give it time to sludge up in a street car.

One cylinder looked low. It is not likely, but it could have a serous problem in that one cylinder that is causing all the smoke. I have seen this when a piston skirt breaks, for no good reason. The engine started smoking real bad and ran fine until the plug fouled.

If the engine ingested something that tore up one bore that could be it too.

Was it noted that all the plugs looked OK and about the same?

Hi everyone!
Thanks again for all of your help with this. This forum is the greatest place on earth to be when someone has trouble with slants working right. Thanks going on... so I got a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil poured it the crank case also a bottle of berryman's b-12 in the tank. so far... Little or no smoke at all ofcourse unless I punch it to get on the freeway. When I first pured them in I went for a 15-20 drive going about 55- 60 a couple times. Then yesterday and today I did it again and was able to do 70mph with no problem,pretty much flooring it and no smoke. it had a slight haze of smoke when i let off the pedal. Wow!! all i can say is Thanks again!!!

-Angelo Lewis

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1972 Dart Swinger, 225cid

One more question...Does anyone have to sell/ know where I can I buy a dipstick for my slant? The crank I guess ate it and I've been using a dipstick way too long to check the oil. I did the oil change thing and marked it after that and check it every week or so. Any input on where I should start besides the local junkyard would be greatly appreciated. (also what category should this actually be under? thanks!)

-A. Lewis

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1972 Dart Swinger, 225cid

I have blue smoke on mine when I lift on the highway. (so I've been told) I think it is where my pinging is coming from. On 93 octane it still pings. The only thing that fixes it is race gas.

The head has 30K on it since rebuild. Engine has pinged since rebuild. Motor has 65K on it since Chrysler put it together. I don't putt around town, it gets driven everywhere!

I am wondering if the guides weren't done properly.

The cylinders looked great when we pulled the motor at 32K.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I used to have the same problem. Pinging before and after deceleration!

After the rebuild (about 16,000 miles back) I took off all the pollution control equipment, so it is fairly basic and stable. I still have the PCV from the valve cover circuit and the gas recirculator from carb float bowl hooked up. So no EGR at all. Where I live they do not require inspections.

Now I can't get the engine to ping at all on 89 octane. I am running 20 degrees initial timing because all I can get out of the distributor is 10 degrees mechanical at 25000 rpm (super stiff springs on a new distributor). The vacuum canister (11R) adds another 13 degrees on top of that for 43 degrees total.

I know I need to do a recurve but have a hard time finding MOPAR distributor advance springs. Eventually when I find them, I will try to make it 10 degrees initial and 20 mechanical degrees advance.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG