Hi slant 6ers good to be here and love the site. I have a 63' Dart 170 that I'm having an A833 OD put in to replace the A903. I've supplied the mechanic with the required bellhousing, speedo cable, and the tranny with shifter. I've already coverted the trunion joint with a uni last year when I pulled the drive shaft to have it balanced.

My question is does anyone know what length clutch fork is required for this hook up?

The bellhousing if from a 76' Aspen as is the A833. I ordered a clutch fork sight unseen and had it mailed to the garage hoping it works, and this is they one that uses the pilot not the clip. The tranny mechanic is great but his helper is a bit slow and doesn't quite understand that he could have measured the old fork to tell me it was too short, I happen to pick up from our conversation that the original clutch fork from the A903 is too short.

Would anyone know what the length of my original clutch fork would be which would be a good start so I at least have something to start from.

Thanks in advance and I'll ad a photo of my Dart to the gallery

Hey, I was looking for the same answer, I'm eventually going to put an 833 OD into my '65 Valiant.

I have the idea that that particular bellhousing in an early A-body presents a bit of a challenge, especially in regards to clutch fork length.

Please post what you find out, I'm definitely interested in the final outcome.

Greg

Greg,
Sorry to get back to this so late, I hope this still helps.
I did get the corrects clutch fork which was the 12 inch fork. Everything went in nice and smoothly. I've been running with the A833 for months now and I'm really happy with how it pulls the Dart along. With much help from other slant 6ers here in the forum I was able to find out what my gear ratio is in the differential so I would know if I'm running with the best combination for economy. Also after reading and asking many questions I've learned that tire size and rear ratio is key to how you wish to run your car wether your racing on the strip or just a daily driver with highway driving and just want the best combo for economy.
Brian

Hey Brian, thanks for the update. Sounds like things worked out well. I found this kit, I thought that I might dispense with the clunky linkage:

http://www.chucksclassiccars.com/index. ... y=Specials

The main drawback to the hydraulic clutch setup is the mounting of the master cylinder. You'd have to drill a hole in the firewall next to the brake MC and sort of engineer the clutch pedal to actuate correctly. I like the bracketry they fabbed up for the clutch fork piston/actuator though. Also, a little on the expensive side, but when you find all the regular linkage parts you need, get them shipped, cleaned up and ready to install, I think it's a good deal. Perhaps not a racing mod, but seems like it would work great in a street car, esp. an economy build.

Final drive ratios are easy to find as long as you know what your gear sets are. You could easily find out your rear ratio by doing the wheel-spin trick - jack up the car, turn the wheel one revolution and count the turns of the driveshaft. Tire size is one of the keys to final drive ratios. If you want more info, try to get the Auto Math Handbook by John Lawlor.

This conversion is one I have posted about a few times but my parts cost less than $180 each time I have done the swap (to use a hydraulically operated pull slave for my 833OD fork). You either use a wilwood type master cylinder, or just reuse one of the classic Mopar 1 chamber brake master cylinders. Right now I am running the Mopar one and tossed tghe wilwood one on the shelf. I did it for looks. I used braided steel line with AN fittings between the pull slave and the master cyl, again just for looks. A good line is about $22 (included in the $180) as are the adapters from regular to AN thread. I just made my own bracket...and remember your master cylinder doesn't have to be on the firewall... Works great, feels markedly like a regular clutch.

rock
64d100