Sorry to stray off topic, but you guys seem pretty knowledgeable, and it is a Mopar question. I have a Dana 70 rear end out of an early 80s Dodge truck I need to narrow. I've heard and read about cutting the tube and welding it back to the housing etc. I need to locate the short side axle for this rear end, it's an offset chunk. It happens that if I shorten the long side to the same length as the short side it's the right width for my 49 Dodge route van. Any advice on the narrowing, finding an axle etc. would be greatly appreciated, I've struck out on all the other Mopar sites I've posted on. Thanks, Charlie.

dodge47@att.net

Talk to these guys, they will be able to answer all your questions. <A HREF="http://www.moserengineering.com">www.moserengineering.com</A> Dennis

slantzilla@excite.com

Keep calling around (emailing) for that short axle, you will need that "in hand" before starting.
What is it's lenght, spline and lug type?

Sounds like you have "done your homework" but be certain that all is well with the "core" rearend you are about to narrow. Pop-off the cover and check for gear wear, metal chips and confirm the gear ratio before going further.

The Key to a successful rearend narrowing job are the special tools needed. A good bandsaw, welder and the special locating Jig are required. The locating jig is nothing more then 4 big steel "doughnuts" (spacers) and a long / thick / straight arbor bar.

A professional shop will completly disassemble the axle, clean the housing, bandsaw-off the leg to be shortened & install the spacers / bar into the carrier saddles / caps. In your case, you can support one end of the bar in the short side axle bearing counterbore (cup). What you now have is a clean axle housing with a stout locating bar sticking-out the "stump" to be rewelded.

Experience is needed on where to make the shortening cut, most I see are cut right in the middle of the tube where it is easy to work, and then "butt welded" back together. I have also seen the cut made at the base of the axle bearing cup, with the cup bored-out to allow the axle tube to be inserted for a better (stronger) weld joint. In either case, carefull measurments and material removal is needed to prepair the weld joint area.

The special jig / arbor holds everything in place while you weld. Be sure to "tack weld" some small spots 180º apart to start with and watch which way the welding "pulls" the workpiece around. You end-up "stitching" the weld in because when you do one small weld, the lay-out gets pulled over to that spot, then you weld an opposite spot to pull it back. (a free sliding arbor bar tells you all is well and still on lay-out "centerline")

Once the welding is finished you will dress (grind) the weld then completly clean the housing before reassembly. (you have to wash-out all those little rock hard welding "spark balls" or else this junk will trash your gears and bearings)

Can this job be done successfully in the "backyard"? Yes.
Is it worth doing it yourself, No. It is better to disassemble the unit and send it to a pro who has the jig, experience and proper welding equipment.

Call around, my local rearend guy will narrow a housing for $80.00 or he will rent me the jig if I think I can do the job faster / better.
DD