Guys what is my best bet for getting the first and last exhaust studs out of my head. They are both broken off. One at the surface and one with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch sticking out.

I'm thinking an easy out is out of the question as these are fused in there something fierce.

Drill and tap?

Thanks for any suggestions.

_________________
-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

get a really sharp pointed punch and mark the center of the stud. since you have some stud sticking out you could grind it smooth if you wanted. then get a really sharp carbide drill bit and you should be able to drill right down the center of the stud. start with a small bit(1/8") and work your way up. also before you start drilling on it, tap it with a hammer like you're going to drive it in like a nail. this can help loosen it. an easy-out should get as long as you careful. take your time and start on the front one so you can figure out your own technique for doing it.

zedpapa

_________________
1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

If you have access to a welder, you can put a nut on the one sticking out, weld it to the stud, and try turning it out when it cools.

The other one will almost have to be drilled out and the threads chased.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

You can drill and tap or drill and easy out, last time I did this I used a cobalt drill bit (they ain't cheap).

Another method, I've seen used is the 'blow torch' method. You heat the broken stud with an oxy-acet setup until bright red, then nail it with the oxygen only lever, it just melts the stud out of the hole like wax...with that said you'll need to be a bit experienced with the torch, and you do have to 're thread' the hole again to make sure all the slag is out of it.

-D.Idiot

For the stud that isn't broken off flush I would use heat and a good penetrating oil like Kroil. I got a broken big block exhaust stud out this way recently. The other broken stud had to be drilled and the remaining pieces picked out carefully. There was a little thread damage from drilling, but not bad. The new stud will go in with sealer and will be fine.

_________________
Joshua

the 2 end studs you are having difficulty with go thru to the water,and you should use sealant on them.

regards,Rod

I have had luck with quality (snapon, mac ect) left handed drill bits, after a good penetrating oil soak. With luck it will grab the stud and back it out while drilling.

Good Luck
TopHat

I wouldn't suggest using an easy out for something this stubborn. If you think trying to drill through a broken stud is hard, wait until you try to drill through a broken easy out.

Amen bro, that is why I posted this question.


I destroyed a pump on my pressure washer this year b/c of a broken ez out. That was a 2 second $120 mistake

_________________
-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

Unless the head has been modified, A.K.A big valves, port work or .060 off deck, then just throw it to the side and find another.

It can be pretty easy and inexpensive to find a 'good' stock head if you know where to look. If you don't know where to look, then it's a good idea to get out and make friends with the local parts supply chain.

Not that I haven't drilled out head studs before, but what garage doesn't need an 'extra' slant six head, or even a whole spare engine.

_________________
1980 Aspen 225 super six

Hello!

First, heat it red with acetylene then touch paraffin to it. The threads tiake up the paraffin and "grease" the joint. When cool, put a center punch in the center and give it a good whack. Then like tophat, I finish up with a lefthand drill bit. Having marked the center with the center punch, drill with increasingly larger size regular bits, then when approaching the stud diamter, use you lefthand bit. The leftover thread part will unscrew. I have NEVER gotten a easy out to work...only break. Then it is time for the millling machine.
rock
'64d100

I have gotten eazy outs to work, but only snap-on, not parts store or home improvement store stuff.

Another tip, the stud goes in to the water jacket. Try to shoot penetrating oil in that area of the jacket. If it is not accessible through the jacket you can drill all the way through the stud and try to soak the back of it that way.

As mentioned above heat is usually good

Go slow and be patient.

Good luck

TopHat

All the intake studs go into water, not just the end two.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

not on Aussie heads then. the end 2 only on the ones I have worked on.
I just went and had a look at my spare and - yep- I am right. topside of the world must be different.

regards,Rod

is the only place to get the lefthanded drill bits, from the tool dealers?

I'm making a trip to harbor freight today, but something tells me I'm barking up the wrong tree there:)

Chris

_________________
-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!