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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:46 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Western Maryland
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Hey All,

I have my 225 engine down to the short block. I don't anticipate disassembling the mill. There is very little varnish and carbon build up, but I would like to clean what is there the best I can.

I was thinking about one of those fillable pressure spray cans from Harbor Freight filled with kerosene. I'm sure that would do a pretty good job, but I wondered if any of you had a preferred process you may want to share :)

Thank you,

Chris

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:36 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Don't laugh, "easy off oven cleaner" or any of the generic copies works wonders and grease mixed with lye (which is the main engrediant of oven cleaners) makes soap

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 5:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Wash with hot soapy water clean all the passeges. Spray with brakleen. Blow dry with compressed air.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Quote:
Wash with hot soapy water clean all the passeges. Spray with brakleen. Blow dry with compressed air.
b/c the shortblock is not being disassembled I am scared to use water. Just too many places it can hide and creat a prob.

On a bare block your combo is exactly what I'd do.

Thank you,

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-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 10:31 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
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You can get water inside the engine and not hurt anything as long as the water doesn't stay in the engine. I can point you to pictures of a guy hosing out the inside of his junk yard engine. He calls it his "Pull and Save" race engine. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index ... #msg637765 He used a cleaner similar to the Zep Industrial Purple you can buy off the shelf at Home Depot. I've used the same cleaner and it works quite well. Get a big can or spray bottle of WD-40 to drive the water off all the surfaces after rinsing. The tricks here are to not let the bare metal dry off once it's wet and to hit it with the WD-40 as soon as the water stops flowing. After a generous application of WD-40 blow out the water and use more WD-40. As long as there is enough WD-40 so the clean metal isn't exposed to air it won't rust. I would either pull off the oil pump and take out the core plugs or seal off the oil passages. Just make sure you don't trap water inside.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:09 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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You might try carb cleaner as it "melts" the gunk away. Those spray cans at the chain autoparts stores work for not to much money. It's mostly laquer thinner so you could buy a gallon or two and try it in your spray bottle and it evap's fairly quick,then w-40 compressed air etc. 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 5:35 am 
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TBI Slant 6

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Location: Chesapeake Beach, Md.
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Fire up the gas power washer after a dousing the block with carb cleaner. Dry out the nooks and crannies with compressed air.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:06 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Western Maryland
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Very interesting. Who'd of thunk it? Call me a wuss but I think I'll keep the water out of it this time :oops: Guess I'll try the laquer thinner in the spray bottle.

Maybe soon I'll grow a pair and try the water :lol:

Thanks guys,

Chris

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-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

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