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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:28 pm 
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Heck, I'd probably run 3500, but that's me... 3200 should be very nice.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:30 pm 
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Any reason why the short side radius looks untouched? I don't see any real relief around the valves either.
Ask your question again and pretend I am stupid. :?:


On a slite side note.
If my motor worked well with Autolite 64 plugs, will it likely like the same plugs or something different now that the compression has been lowered.

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Last edited by Bren67Cuda904 on Wed Sep 05, 2007 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 2:51 pm 
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Ask your question again and pretend I am stupid. :?:


On a slite side note.
If my motor worked well with Autolite 64 plugs, will it likely like the same plugs or something different now that the compression has been lowered.
no, you absolutely need the NGK ZFRZXXXÑ5 with extra long electrode

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 2:54 pm 
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Start with the 64s, and you could go up to a 65 or 66, but probably not necessary or noticeable. I run NGK GR4s or GR45s in my motors.

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 3:54 pm 
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The short side is where the floor of the port (the bottom of the port when the head is on the engine) and the bottom cut (the cut under the valve down in the throat, probably 70 degrees) meet. It looks like it has the sharp angle left after machining, maybe it is just the angle of the picture. No matter what kind of porting is done this should at least have nice radius. Everything I have heard and see myself is against lowering the floor, but this really should be a clean blend. It can cost a very large amount of flow, on any head.

Valve relief is the clearance between the edge of a valve head and the side of the chamber. The valve needs some room to breathe or you don't get the full benefit of the larger size. On the slants it is not so good because the bore is so small. But the valves could be relieved some by hand with a round bur without opening up the surface of the head beyond the bore diameter.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 6:24 pm 
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Your head dude should have known to relieve around the valves. That would have been a beneficial way to lower compression as well. You can relieve past the bore diameter.

He should have also caught the short side lip.....looks like lazy maching to me.

If you look at a Mike Jeffries head you will see an asymetrical relief plan around the valves.

A good article about this is on Panics site. Thats what I used.

I chose to mill the block and leave my head alone. This means the relieving around the valves can be larger than the bore.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 6:42 pm 
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The short side is where the floor of the port (the bottom of the port when the head is on the engine) and the bottom cut (the cut under the valve down in the throat, probably 70 degrees) meet. It looks like it has the sharp angle left after machining, maybe it is just the angle of the picture. No matter what kind of porting is done this should at least have nice radius. Everything I have heard and see myself is against lowering the floor, but this really should be a clean blend. It can cost a very large amount of flow, on any head.

Valve relief is the clearance between the edge of a valve head and the side of the chamber. The valve needs some room to breathe or you don't get the full benefit of the larger size. On the slants it is not so good because the bore is so small. But the valves could be relieved some by hand with a round bur without opening up the surface of the head beyond the bore diameter.
http://tinyurl.com/25ptxh

I have edited the picture above. I am assuming the sharp angle your speaking of is highlighted in GREEN. This edge is not as sharp as it seems in the picture. The valve relief area is in RED. Correct?
The head was painted with blueing and bolted to the empty box. From the under side a scratch awl was used to trace the bores exact size and position on to the head. The head was removed and set up in the mill and cut out to the markings. The bore is 3.591 and the gasket is 3.66. Keep in mind that the head gasket bores are not perfect circles. If the head was cut wider at the valves the fire ring would not be covered and more than just the edge (.048 compressed) would be exposed. Are you saying that this would have be OK? I was hard enough to position the gasket just right to keep the gasket from hanging into the camber.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 7:28 pm 
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You can relieve around the valves without comprimising head gasket seal.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:38 am 
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I can't seem to find Panics article on head porting/chamber working. Seems as if I read somewhere that leaving a sharp inner port turn has some benifits. Can't remmember what it was. Is it OK to have some of the fiber of the head gasket exposed to the chamber?

If some of you are holding back with the criticisum, don't. I won't take it personally. I didn't do the work myself, I paid to have it done and want to know really what you think.
I don't think it can be to bad. I was running 14.97 in the 1/4 with restricted exhaust (3cylinders), 2500 stall converter and 3250 lb total weight.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 am 
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You cannot have the fiber part of the head gasket exposed to fire. The metal ring must be mostly or completely compressed between head and block surfaces. You have a fair bit of valve relieving already with a 1.865 valve and 3.59 bore, if I am looking at your cyl head chamber pics right. Not going to make massive gains there.

With good exhaust and a 3200 converter, you should be way down in the 14s, if not in the 13s.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:47 pm 
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Ok I looked at the picture. But did you read my post? That's not the short side of the port, but it should not be sharp either. You got the relief area correct, but it still looks tight to me for that size valve. It is hard to tell from a picture though. Was this head ever flowed?

If you think you read somewhere that a sharp angle on the short side is good, it MUST be. Lets keep it a secret from all the head porters out there who don't know any better. I give up!

Yes I believe too (like I posted way back) that it "should" be able to run low 14's - high 13's with the right converter, gears and driver. I've seen quite a few cars that never see their real potential, no matter how much time or money is spent. Think about why that is and maybe you won't end up with one of those cars.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 3:42 pm 
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If you think you read somewhere that a sharp angle on the short side is good, it MUST be. Lets keep it a secret from all the head porters out there who don't know any better. I give up!

Yes I believe too (like I posted way back) that it "should" be able to run low 14's - high 13's with the right converter, gears and driver. I've seen quite a few cars that never see their real potential, no matter how much time or money is spent. Think about why that is and maybe you won't end up with one of those cars.
I was simply saying that I thought I read/heard it somewhere. I was not stating it as undisputable fact. I simply wanted to hear if there was some truth to this in some conditions. :x
As for cars not running to there potential. I am sure many are slower than they could be, but lets get a little bit real there for just 2 seconds. The question has been asked many many times and I have yet to see anyone step up and say. "My car runs 13 seconds NA, fully loaded, drives on the street and no spray. Ohh and by the way, driving on the street also includes no race fuel. 93 octane max. My car will never see 13 seconds without a power adder. Not because of a lack of talent or money, but because there is not enough cubic inches to do so. Until I hear people step up and say there car is running 13's and have time slips, then lets stop saying that they will.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:38 pm 
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Are you really dealing with reality? You have no idea what you are talking about, even though by now most would have learned quite a bit more.

Have you even figured out what the short side of the port is yet? You could just look it up. It's not in the chamber.

It is truly amazing how you can rationalize about your results and link money spent with talent. Yes you spent the money, but where is the talent? Was it on the invoice? One project that falls short of it's goals and has no direction does not make an expert.

My point about meeting potential was that it takes knowledge and talent, or at least persistence, to get things right. Sure you paid someone to do work, that does not mean it was done right or well. Remember the compression ratio mystery? Job well done? Or was that all just a bunch of BS because you thought you could run a higher ratio for some reason, like a perverse sense of entitlement perhaps? What was the reason for all that nonsense, did you ever figure out where, when or how that mistake was made?

When I said should, I meant should, not will. For a reality check, why don't you have your head flowed while it is off? And not at the shop that ported it.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:22 am 
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It is truly amazing how you can rationalize about your results and link money spent with talent.
My results seem to be in line with most of what I have seen, ET wise. A pinch slower but I'll make up that little bit. But 13 seconds is unrealalistic.

Show me all the 13 seconds slants as discribed. Haven't seen any yet.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:39 am 
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I don't do quarter passes, but it seems to me that the stall needed to make a car perform in the quarter would be a pain in the ass to drive on the street. Maybe I'm wrong, but I do think that a "small" motor with a radical buildup shouldn't be coupled to a juice box (an OLD juice box, not in terms of rebuilt or not, but engineering wise)

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