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 Post subject: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 7:18 am 
Just pulled down the new engine we had just built. The #6 and #4 pistons had broken tops (#6 real bad) located at the thin area next to the valve pockets caused by what we think was the rings end butting due to heat. Top ring lands broke straight up and off the pistons and exited through the valves after smashing plug on #6. Does not look like any burned pistons or any melting from pre-ignition at all. Used 0.020" over KB 2.2 hyper-eut pistons with Hastings rings, with the ring gaps opened to 0.026" per their instructions. Engine has a figured 11:1 comp ratio (35cc head and 0.025±" neg deck). Was runing 32° total advance and 180° thermostat and running 94 Sunoco with lead replacement. Cylinders appear to be OK with just a hone job required. All bearings had some alum go throught them and will be replaced. Alum parts went out the exhaust, but the head and valves appear to be OK.

Any suggestions on replacement pistons? Expect to buy 6 new, and if we have to, will bore block, can go to 0.080" or 0.100" over. Engine was balanced, but if using 6 matched pistons, should be OK. Car ran like H###. Engine pulls great from 1,500 to 5,800+ rpm with no soft spots at all. A touch rich on #6 and #1 like all 4v carb 6s. Fully expect mid 14 sec an street slicks with closed exhaust. Out pulled my 5.9 R/T on an uphill on-ramp and was actually gaining before my son pulled out of it!

KB pistons looked real nice going in, and we did follow the instructions of KB and our machine shop to the letter about the ring gap. Hate to install 2nd head gasket to lower comp ratio, as we would lose quench in the chamber. Have access to piston coating for the piston tops and skirts if needed, but don't know about increasing ring gaps to 0.035". Any and all comments would be of great help.
Thanks
Smith

sgw041454@aol.com


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 10:51 am 
Quote:
: Just pulled down the new engine we had just
: built. The #6 and #4 pistons had broken tops
: (#6 real bad) located at the thin area next
: to the valve pockets caused by what we think
: was the rings end butting due to heat. Top
: ring lands broke straight up and off the
: pistons and exited through the valves after
: smashing plug on #6. Does not look like any
: burned pistons or any melting from
: pre-ignition at all. Used 0.020" over
: KB 2.2 hyper-eut pistons with Hastings
: rings, with the ring gaps opened to
: 0.026" per their instructions. Engine
: has a figured 11:1 comp ratio (35cc head and
: 0.025±" neg deck). Was runing 32° total
: advance and 180° thermostat and running 94
: Sunoco with lead replacement. Cylinders
: appear to be OK with just a hone job
: required. All bearings had some alum go
: throught them and will be replaced. Alum
: parts went out the exhaust, but the head and
: valves appear to be OK.
:
: Any suggestions on replacement pistons? Expect
: to buy 6 new, and if we have to, will bore
: block, can go to 0.080" or 0.100"
: over. Engine was balanced, but if using 6
: matched pistons, should be OK. Car ran like
: H###. Engine pulls great from 1,500 to
: 5,800+ rpm with no soft spots at all. A
: touch rich on #6 and #1 like all 4v carb
: 6s. Fully expect mid 14 sec an street
: slicks with closed exhaust. Out pulled my
: 5.9 R/T on an uphill on-ramp and was
: actually gaining before my son pulled out of
: it!
:
: KB pistons looked real nice going in, and we
: did follow the instructions of KB and our
: machine shop to the letter about the ring
: gap. Hate to install 2nd head gasket to
: lower comp ratio, as we would lose quench in
: the chamber. Have access to piston coating
: for the piston tops and skirts if needed,
: but don't know about increasing ring gaps to
: 0.035". Any and all comments would be
: of great help.
: Thanks
: Smith


Hey, slanters! I don't get this business about the huge piston ring end gaps and still having problems with ring ends butting together. I've run .016" end gap on moly rings in a 340 with cast pistons that I built 25 years ago. It went 13.11 @ 104mph in a '64 Dart GT 4spd w/3.91 gears and on 20yr old(then) 7" (JCPenney!) slicks. That thing sealed up perfect. I almost felt guilty changing the oil in it, because it never got dirty.
Is the problem forged pistons? Are the rings incompatible with the ring grooves? Is the problem not using a torque plate? What gives?

fglmopar@aol.com


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 9:01 pm 
Quote:
: Just pulled down the new engine we had just
: built. The #6 and #4 pistons had broken tops
: (#6 real bad) located at the thin area next
: to the valve pockets caused by what we think
: was the rings end butting due to heat. Top
: ring lands broke straight up and off the
: pistons and exited through the valves after
: smashing plug on #6. Does not look like any
: burned pistons or any melting from
: pre-ignition at all. Used 0.020" over
: KB 2.2 hyper-eut pistons with Hastings
: rings, with the ring gaps opened to
: 0.026" per their instructions. Engine
: has a figured 11:1 comp ratio (35cc head and
: 0.025±" neg deck). Was runing 32° total
: advance and 180° thermostat and running 94
: Sunoco with lead replacement. Cylinders
: appear to be OK with just a hone job
: required. All bearings had some alum go
: throught them and will be replaced. Alum
: parts went out the exhaust, but the head and
: valves appear to be OK.
:
: Any suggestions on replacement pistons? Expect
: to buy 6 new, and if we have to, will bore
: block, can go to 0.080" or 0.100"
: over. Engine was balanced, but if using 6
: matched pistons, should be OK. Car ran like
: H###. Engine pulls great from 1,500 to
: 5,800+ rpm with no soft spots at all. A
: touch rich on #6 and #1 like all 4v carb
: 6s. Fully expect mid 14 sec an street
: slicks with closed exhaust. Out pulled my
: 5.9 R/T on an uphill on-ramp and was
: actually gaining before my son pulled out of
: it!
:
: KB pistons looked real nice going in, and we
: did follow the instructions of KB and our
: machine shop to the letter about the ring
: gap. Hate to install 2nd head gasket to
: lower comp ratio, as we would lose quench in
: the chamber. Have access to piston coating
: for the piston tops and skirts if needed,
: but don't know about increasing ring gaps to
: 0.035". Any and all comments would be
: of great help.
: Thanks
: Smith


I have talked with some other people that have used these pistons. What they have told me is that these are a heat treated cast piston and require lots of end gap on the top piston ring. This came from people that run the XXXX out of their engine. You might call up KB and tell them what end gap you ran and see what they had to say. It never hurts to ask questions????


damuel@kalama.com


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 6:50 am 
Quote:
: Just pulled down the new engine we had just
: built. The #6 and #4 pistons had broken tops
: (#6 real bad) located at the thin area next
: to the valve pockets caused by what we think
: was the rings end butting due to heat. Top
: ring lands broke straight up and off the
: pistons and exited through the valves after
: smashing plug on #6. Does not look like any
: burned pistons or any melting from
: pre-ignition at all. Used 0.020" over
: KB 2.2 hyper-eut pistons with Hastings
: rings, with the ring gaps opened to
: 0.026" per their instructions. Engine
: has a figured 11:1 comp ratio (35cc head and
: 0.025±" neg deck). Was runing 32° total
: advance and 180° thermostat and running 94
: Sunoco with lead replacement. Cylinders
: appear to be OK with just a hone job
: required. All bearings had some alum go
: throught them and will be replaced. Alum
: parts went out the exhaust, but the head and
: valves appear to be OK.
:
: Any suggestions on replacement pistons? Expect
: to buy 6 new, and if we have to, will bore
: block, can go to 0.080" or 0.100"
: over. Engine was balanced, but if using 6
: matched pistons, should be OK. Car ran like
: H###. Engine pulls great from 1,500 to
: 5,800+ rpm with no soft spots at all. A
: touch rich on #6 and #1 like all 4v carb
: 6s. Fully expect mid 14 sec an street
: slicks with closed exhaust. Out pulled my
: 5.9 R/T on an uphill on-ramp and was
: actually gaining before my son pulled out of
: it!
:
: KB pistons looked real nice going in, and we
: did follow the instructions of KB and our
: machine shop to the letter about the ring
: gap. Hate to install 2nd head gasket to
: lower comp ratio, as we would lose quench in
: the chamber. Have access to piston coating
: for the piston tops and skirts if needed,
: but don't know about increasing ring gaps to
: 0.035". Any and all comments would be
: of great help.
: Thanks
: Smith


The top ring gaps can butt very easily on this type of piston. I would recommend calling Keith Black and give them all of you engine spec's to see if they recommend a different gap. The main factors that affect ring gap are cylinder bore diameter, combustion temperature(which increases with more cylinder pressure) and the distance from the top of the piston to the top ring land. The closer the top ring is to the top of the piston the hotter the top ring becomes, thereby requiring a larger top ring end gap. The drawback of the short distance from the top ring to the top of the piston is that it weakens the top ring land area making it very suseptible to damage from detonation/pre-ignition. Keith Black has to run a small top ring land area to draw heat out of the top of their piston to keep it from collapsing because of poor control of silicon dispursement in the alloy itself. This is the biggest downfall of their pistons.
One other suggestion is that an 11.0:1 motor with a cast iron head is going to detonate on 94 octane gas. You are going to need to run 100 plus octane if you want to run the timing up where it needs to be. Also make sure that you run a ductile iron top ring. With 11:1 compression it is very easy to detonate and a ductile iron top ring will handle detonation much better than a stock cast ring will. Good Luck!


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 7:42 am 
Quote:
: The top ring gaps can butt very easily on this
: type of piston. I would recommend calling
: Keith Black and give them all of you engine
: spec's to see if they recommend a different
: gap. The main factors that affect ring gap
: are cylinder bore diameter, combustion
: temperature(which increases with more
: cylinder pressure) and the distance from the
: top of the piston to the top ring land. The
: closer the top ring is to the top of the
: piston the hotter the top ring becomes,
: thereby requiring a larger top ring end gap.
: The drawback of the short distance from the
: top ring to the top of the piston is that it
: weakens the top ring land area making it
: very suseptible to damage from
: detonation/pre-ignition. Keith Black has to
: run a small top ring land area to draw heat
: out of the top of their piston to keep it
: from collapsing because of poor control of
: silicon dispursement in the alloy itself.
: This is the biggest downfall of their
: pistons.
: One other suggestion is that an 11.0:1 motor
: with a cast iron head is going to detonate
: on 94 octane gas. You are going to need to
: run 100 plus octane if you want to run the
: timing up where it needs to be. Also make
: sure that you run a ductile iron top ring.
: With 11:1 compression it is very easy to
: detonate and a ductile iron top ring will
: handle detonation much better than a stock
: cast ring will. Good Luck!


Hello all,

Why not just run a substantially larger end gap than their spec (like 0.050" or so)? I can't imagine the leakage losses are much at all when the motor is running, especially at high rpms. I seem to remember the stock Slant piston max end gap tolerance is around 0.050", which is about what mine ended up at on my last motor (10 years and 40k miles on it, including more than 100 1/4 mile passes and 4 road course weekends). I'll recheck this tolerance number in my service manual when I get a chance, and maybe someone can correct me here. I don't get much crankcase pressure and I'm running about 11:1 static on 92 octane (big cam).

Lou


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2002 7:21 pm 
Quote:
: Hello all,
:
: Why not just run a substantially larger end gap
: than their spec (like 0.050" or so)? I
: can't imagine the leakage losses are much at
: all when the motor is running, especially at
: high rpms. I seem to remember the stock
: Slant piston max end gap tolerance is around
: 0.050", which is about what mine ended
: up at on my last motor (10 years and 40k
: miles on it, including more than 100 1/4
: mile passes and 4 road course weekends).
: I'll recheck this tolerance number in my
: service manual when I get a chance, and
: maybe someone can correct me here. I don't
: get much crankcase pressure and I'm running
: about 11:1 static on 92 octane (big cam).
:
: Lou


Lou,
Are you the guy that was featured in Popular Hot Roddings August issue? If,so I would like to pick your brain regarding a buildup that I am planning for my 64 Valiant. I was really impressed by your car and the write up. I think you could help me a lot in my project.
I can be reached by email at <A HREF="mailto:MikeMaurer321@msn.com">MikeMaurer321@msn.com</A> or by phone at 303 743-7893.

Mike Maurer

MikeMaurer321@msn.com


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 Post subject: Re: Piston Ring End Gap
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2002 5:57 am 
Quote:
: Lou,
: Are you the guy that was featured in Popular
: Hot Roddings August issue? If,so I would
: like to pick your brain regarding a buildup
: that I am planning for my 64 Valiant. I was
: really impressed by your car and the write
: up. I think you could help me a lot in my
: project.
: I can be reached by email at
: <A HREF="mailto:MikeMaurer321@msn.com">MikeMaurer321@msn.com</A> or by phone at 303
: 743-7893.
:
: Mike Maurer


Mike, let's keep the discussion on the site. Check your email for another little morale builder too...

Lou


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