Can the oil pan gasket be changed w the motor in the car? I looked at it last night and it looks like a tight sqeese to say the least. I also changed the valve cover gasket to a new rubber one. Its on a '63 dart and it leaks like a stuck pig. I may even have a bad rear main. Can that also be changed w the removal of the tranny?

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

Rear main can't be changed just by pulling the transmission - the pan has to come out because the bolts that hold the seal retainer to the block can only be accessed from the inside of the engine.

The oil pan gasket can be changed with engine still in car but it is a pita. I did it once - I disconnected one side of the center link and swung it out of the way. Then I unbolted the motor mounts from the frame and raised the engine from above with a typical engine crane. You will have to turn the crank so the weights are up in the engine to let the pan clear. It is do-able, less of a pita then pulling the whole motor but still a pita.

One you have the oil pan out you can change the rear main seal from below. If your engine has the packed fiber "rope" type seal don't attempt to remove the upper half; just replace the lower half. If you have the 2 piece rubber seal then you can use a punch to get the upper half out far enough to grab it with pliers and pull it on out. Be careful that you don't ding the seal surface on the crank. The seal half is easier removed if you turn the crank while pulling. Let the seal hug the surface of the carnk and just turn until it drops out. The replacement is put in much the same way. Be sure to put it in the right way. If you're using the rope seal do not cut it off. Pack the whole thing into the groove as tightly as possible then, trim the ends with a razor blade. There should be very little excess, maybe 1/8" or less to trim off. When you torque the seal retainer it will compress the seal material against the crank and ends of the upper seal. If the upper half of a rope seal needs replacement you must pull the engine to do a satisfactory job. Champ used to make a tool to drive a wire shim into the groove behind the seal. If you can find that it will snug it up enough to possibly stop any leaks in that area. Always replace the lower half.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Pierre, so you have to lift the engine a bit in order to take the pan out? The reason I ask, is because I have to put a new gasket in mine because its leaking real bad and another reason I ask is because I don't have a hoist (crane).

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1968 Valiant 100, 4dr, 225 - FOR SALE TO A GOOD HOME!

I disconnected the engine mounts, jacked up the engine using a floor jack with a 2x4 under the oil pan. Wedged some wood between the raised engine mounts, remove floor jack. I also had to disconnect the drag link to get my oil pan off.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

Yes, because the k-frame to pan clearance is just not enough. I like that wood under the mounts idea.

Thank you guys very much. That helps to know what I'll be looking forward to when I get ready to do this.

Also, what type of gasket maker/sealant do you recommend?

,Cliff

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

Ditto hellion, I won't be starting that until I get my re-wiring finished, my brakes rebuilt and then the oil pan and trans pan. Followed by a complete tuneup...man that's down the road and it sure seems to be a long road at that. -Dan

I once swapped a crank with the engine in the car. I won't be doing that again.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.