That may not be a bad idea brotha.

I'd think you'd be very safe since you are not running any silly big valve springs.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Does that hughes set have a real roller chain? So many of the "rollers" have the fixed pins in the chain and no rollers. I prefer to use the stock type sets or one of the very high quality true rollers, but nothing in between.

How about a stock style replacement with the iron top gear? If the later ones are not so hot (I have not looked at any up close), I see NOS aftermarket sets on ebay all the time, fairly cheap. I have a new / old cloyes set I am going to use that looks good.

Of course, a real stock set would surely work.

I have used the "stock" style timing sets in every slant engine, I have built, except one. That one got the Cox Bros double roller set, but only got 5 runs on the motor, before it ate a piston. The sets I used, had the steel cam gear. Never had a problem, and I have turned my 170 up to 7,000 rpm.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Neither the Hughes or Comp sets are true roller. They are just double chain sets. As a side note they are absolutly identical.....obviously sourced from the same place.

I suspect the lower gear is the problem. The cam gears all spec ed out the same. On both the Comp and Hughes the lower gear sits "out" far enough to "pull" the cam gear forward .035. The lower gear is worn on the front side and the cam gear is worn on the back side(teeth). I think this means keeping the cam in place with a button is not going to be the full answer.

Dennis is right I am using stock sbc double v/v springs that are relatively low tension.

I have a good steel upper and lower OEM style gears and a new chain.

I also have a new nylon/alum top gear.

I might play with some sets on a know good block/crank just to be sure my block/crank are not the issue.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....