Its time to replace the alternator on the Satellite (nice light show in the dark from one of the fields). Now, the alternator I have now is a rebuilt unit thats lasted 7 years. As far as I know, its a standard unit for my car (standard slant six car). Can I get a 60amp alt. and not have any worries? I have drilled through the bulk head and eliminated the connecters to and from the ammeter, and have also ran an extra 10g wire from the alt output stud to the starter relay (with some fusable link of course). Should I be OK? Thanks.

Shouldn't be a problem given your upgraded wiring. Biggest concern will be getting a good quality alternator. Don't see any brand new ones on ebay at the moment but they go by pretty regularly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What go high amps, go with a 440 alt out of a motorhome.

It will deliver wattage to yer cottage!

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I replaced the alt back when on the '74 from the 46 amp to the 65 amp double pulley with no problems, now have the same setup on the Hpak Duster, but as always remanf alts only last a few years at best (the one on the Hpak duster is doing swell at 5 years now...then I just trade in another one from my barrel of remanf cores... they're kind of like starters, since I went to mini-starters I suddenly have too many slant six starters laying around waiting for the scrap barrel since they wont start a high compression motor so well)...

I still have one of the 120 amp sizzler OEM alts from a 1975 440 New Yorker (sorry, Brett got my last bracket for his 'Charger' project...), it just lies in the 'shed' with a few other Big Block parts just waiting for nothing to happen...


-D.Idiot

A friend of mine got a "new" not rebuilt one about a month ago from Carquest and they asked him if he wanted it with a single or double pulley.
I thought all you could get was rebuilt . they also asked if he wanted a 46 or 60 or 74 amp.

Yeah...careful there. The "new" alternators and starters you can buy nowtimes are cheaply-made copycat junk from China. Not better than remanufactured.

But y'know, come to that, Eric, if you're up for a little adaptation work, you could swap in any of the '89+ alternators (Bosch, Chrysler with black plastic rear cover, Nippondenso which is my preference) and get higher total amperage, considerably better low-RPM charging, and less drag due to easier spinning. The wiring would hook up directly. I am fairly sure, but not 100%, that an adaptor like this one would take care of the bottom bracket, and you can use one of those universal curved top slider brackets. Sam Powell uses such a top bracket on his car, with the slotted end at the engine side and the single hole at the alternator. I've usually seen them the other way around, but his setup works well and looks good.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you have the cast lower alternator mount, you can remove about 1/4 inch from the front of the mount, and then the Nipodenso alternator will bolt right on. It will require a change from a serp pully to a V-belt pully ( Toyota PU is one that will work).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Do they have built in regulators ?

There are versions of the Nippondenso alternator that have built-in regulators, but much better in my opinion is to use the version made for Chrysler products, which hooks up directly to the existing external regulator. Also, these alternators came with V-belt pulleys on '89-'91 Dodge trucks and vans plus '89 M-bodies.

Thanks for the info on shaving 1/4" off the front of the bottom bracket to mount the later alternator. I've been meaning for at least a decade to see whether the extra material would have to come off the front, the back, or both ends of the bracket to get the belt alignment right...never got around to it, though.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

When I was running the nippondenso alternator at the passenger side location I remember having to take ~1/8" off, and from the back (firewall side) of the bracket. I think it could of used more to get the alignment perfect, but then you would have to start shimming the front with washers. Stock upper bracket.

Using the bracket Dan shows will allow use of one of the numerous gm alternators (10si cs144, etc). Just don't go too high with the amperage. With a belt length that long a single 3/8" v-belt has limited ability.

Thanks for the replies gang. I decided to play it safe for now and get a 50 amp unit from Napa. I would like to use a Nippondenso alt in the future, but being a lead at work and looking at our work load next year, time will be a valuable commodity.

Good thread!

I've got a bunch of AC Delco's and Delcotrons floating about. I was looking into installing the conversion bracket and going to the 10SI Delco a couple of months ago.

I talked to an old timer that runs an Auto Electric shop near here. He suggested not doing that. He spoke very highly of the Mopar alternator. His reasoning had to do with mass for heat dissipation, and commented that this unit is pretty well bullet proof. Just replace the brushes every once in a while.

That being said, the front bearing is going south on mine. (Just getting more noise than I'd like.)
I drove the car in today to see if he can replace the bearings and give the Alternator a freshen up. The shiv looks good, so maybe we'll get another couple hundred K out of it.


CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I needed to take all the material off the front of the bracket. Left the back alone, and took it off the front till the alternator fit on, and the alignment was good. I have the 110 amp Nip alternator on my 66 Cuda and have turned 7,500 rpm without problems. At 7,000 the belt will sometimes, vacate the premisis.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Maybe there are small variations in the cases themself and/or pulleys?

Local alternator shop told me about one style of belt... "greenback" something or another, has steel in it instead of fiber to prevent the belt from stretching after tightening - will have to look into that.

If you want mondo current and heat dissipating check out gm cs144's - they put out more current at idle as our old alts do at full tilt.

Thats what I'm running now on the driver side where power steering used to be. Need to investigate how to turn the rear crank pulley (stock ac belt location) to serpentine or gilmer style to run the alt for added insurance.

Got a pic of this setup? I want to lose the PS in my car at some point soon (pump's leaking and I don't feel like spending the money on replacing it when I plan to go with a 20:1 manual box) so that'd be a perfect location for an alternator. Plus, getting rid of the alt on the passenger side of the car will help make it a little easier to reach stuff in there...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me