i did it about 6 weeks ago. bought the petronix kit and replaced my points.installation was easy. it started rite up, ran fine, idled smoother than ever. installed with a new dist cap and spark plugs. never moved the timing b4 installation.

after warm up, checking timing found it to be very advanced approx 30*ahead. when i bring the timing back to where it belongs, it seems to have lost what little torgueit had. it still starts rite up, still idles reaL sweet. it just seems weaker.

i wired it up to the front side of the ballast resistor. what did i do wrong? did i miss something?

D~~~!

The way I read it , you're supposed to bypass the ballast Resistor. I also kept the stuff to convert it back to points in a small baggie in case I get stuck out on the road someday.

i too save the old parts in the glove box. the wiring diagram that came in this kit said, as you, to bypass the ballast resistor. not to removed it from the vehicle, but to wire into the input side of it. i did that.
got any other ideas? can the resistor be removed completely?

D~~~!

I just keep a spare set of points, a small screwdriver in the glove box, and spend the petronics money on other stuff.

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OK, the basic idea is to can the petronics. i get it. has everybody had the same trbl as me, or different symptoms?

D~~~!

Gato,

They are good units. A lot of rodders use them. I had one go out, was stranded. Went back to points.

Some guys go 5 years without a problem.

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it starts rite up, and its steady. it's just losty the torque. i didn't know that was possible.

D~~~!

The Petronix unit is a good one.

Regarding the timing issue, I wonder if the harmonic balancer has slipped and your TDC mark is inaccuarate. Did you check the timing before you installed the Petronix? If you did and it looked good, then it's probably not the balancer. Otherwise, you'll want to check that the mark is correct, and if necessary re-mark the balancer or get a new one.

Steve

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1966 Dodge Dart GT

I've had 2 go out on me. They ran like a dream when they ran, then they whent south suddenly. One was months later, one was a week later.

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My Car Domain

Mine is still in the car, but the wire terminals are jumpered with a small piece of solid core wire. They are no longer connected to the ballast resistor. I'm now thinking of running two wires to a simple switch that is hidden under the dash as an anti-theft device. Simple, but effective, especially if the ballast resistor is made to look hooked up in a stock configuration while in reality, the wires go from the backside of it to the switch hidden under the dash.

very creative!

We have the kit also installed in the TwIsTeR. When hooked to resistor 3.5k to 4k broke up pretty bad. Now on a 12 volt switch, noticed timing had changed also, re-set it, opened the plug gap to .040 pulls 5k now no problem. Power is back. Hope this helps Don

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'72 Duster /6 with turbo build up
'03 Ram 2500 4x4 w/HEMI 5sp 4:10 posi
My Twister Page

thanx for all the help folks.
the 12volt switch idea has me curious. what did u use for the 12 volt source? the starter relay?

D~~~!

I switched to the pertronix last week. I followed the included instructions and tied all the wires together that went to my single ballast resistor. When I tried to fire up the car, the starter would not turn over. I went over my wiring as suggested on this site and discovered some problems with the grounding system. I cleaned up all the grounds, contacts and put in some new grounding wires and the car fired up and ran great. I think everyone contemplating swithing to pertronix should go over the grounding system.

I don't like electronic ignition systems because I don't know how to repair them. I liked the pertronix because it is easy to switch back to the points. I pulled my working distributor out, kept it complete, cap and all and put it in a box in the trunk. I made a jumper with two male spade ends and plugged it into each set of wires going to the ballast resistor. I left the ballast resistor in place. If I have any problems with the pertronix all I have to do is swap distributors and plug the ballast resistor back in.

I like the idea of putting a switch between the wiring that used to go to the ballast resistor. Can't this be a simple in line switch?

Seconded and thirded!!!
I put the dots there to represent anything. If you swap to anything that requires a full 12 volts to the hotwire, ground everything.
And for pete's sake if you do the HEI upgrade, you might as well get ready to run a ground wire. I ended up running a ground directly to my distributor.....it's the only way it would work.
P.S. A HEI module hooked to a Blaster 2 coil will fry your butt. The spark will come out of the hole, and it will jump an inch to get to your elbow. Make sure your careful around that thing......

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb