I've done the repair using a new radio shack voltage regulator and capacitor connected and soldered per the allpar site diagrams and my gas and temp gauge still do not work.....before doing this the old style regulator caused gauges to peg out ....at first I tried replacing old style regulator with a new old style regulator and got no readings then I tried the new radio shack voltage regulator and capacitor ..............if the gauges were fried they wouldn't have worked at all with the old style regulator would they.....I've cleaned ground strap cable at gas tank and cleaned connections.......any thoughts about what else to try.......vic

You're trying this out with the instrument panel installed in the dash, right? Because otherwise there's no ground path and the gauges won't read. It sounds like they might be fried.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

sometimes when gauges peg out the indicator needle would get "disengaged" of the 2 little arms. Sometimes, that's if you're lucky and the gauge didn't fry as SSD suggests.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Dan - yes the cluster was reinstalled so there is a ground. I'm probably going to move on to aftermarket gauges or pehaps pick up a junkyard cluster.......but I still see this as a challenge. .....is there a way for me to be sure the gauges are fried.......by the way I sent you a private message about something else..........vic

What's your model/year? I'm sure many of us have a few gauge clusters hanging around.

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Never seen a Valiant I didn't like!

VV, didn't get a PM from you. Please resend.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

1974 dart is my model/year.

dan....my pm just said thanks for all your info on plugs, rotor and distributor cap plus soup mixture. I've done all those things in past few days and car runs much better....this is a car I bought out of a junkyard several years ago and I just recently had some time to work on it due to retirement or I should say semi-retire as I still work off and on.....most recently at O'Reilly auto parts here where I live.......one other question though..... I know slants give off water out the tailpipe when first started and I don't think I have a problem as the water coming out of mine does not smell like antifreeze. I've read a couple of post on here saying something about drilling holes in the tailpipe......does that really accomplish anything as it seems you would have to drill further back in exhaust system if rust prevention were your goal and that would result in a sound like a rusted out hole in exhaust......stupid question I guess...vic

P>S> if anyone has a cluster they want to sell or give away I would be interested.

Oh! You're welcome, glad to help.

Water is a significant byproduct of combustion. All engines put out a lot of water. When the exhaust system is cold, the vapour condenses on the cold pipes and is ejected from the tailpipe as visible drips. You're right, no problem unless you get clouds of sharp/sweet smelling white smoke/steam even after the car's warmed up.

The idea behind drilling a hole at the low point in the system is to prevent water accumulating and rusting the pipe at that low point. Many mufflers have a condensate drain hole for this reason. If the car is driven long enough at a time to heat up the exhaust system thoroughly, then there's no problem. A lot of short trips that never really heat up the system can let water accumulate and accelerate the corrosion of the pipes.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.