i found a local 340 for 250 dollers here is the ad


73 340 block, crank and oil pan. Pistons are in the motor, not sure if they could be used. Cylinders do have some rust. Should clean up


is it worth it

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if i cant fix it, it anit broke

For me a spare block is worth that. 340's are getting hard to come by.

If it's a standard bore then go for it.
If it has already been bored .040 or more... then I would 'pass'.
DD

Why Pass if it has been bored .040 or more? It can always be sleeved...

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Care to tell us how much one sleeve costs? Eight?

I had a sleeve put in a magnum 318 that ate a piston, but was otherwise in fine shape. Cost me nearly $100. I would suppose you'd get a discount on 8 sleeves all done at the same time, but even 1/2 off is a pretty expensive proposition.

I'm with Doug on this. If the 340 in question is only +.020" and not too pitted it's a decent deal. If it's +.040" and rusty I'd pass.

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Joshua

I'd agree.. I have been offered a machined one ready to assemble at 10 years back at $1000, I passed for the slant six. A few months ago I was offered one that'd never been rebored out of a '72 Challenger for $1000...
I still passed... (that's why I'll be the Duster 'Idiot' I guess...).

Don't wait to long to inquire, like classified ads, if too good to be true, some dummy will take it quicker than you could get there...(and either save you the headache or beat you to the punch...)


-D.Idiot

once i get it he is giving me two weeks to have it cheacked out by a machine shop if it is bad jhe will giv the money back

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if i cant fix it, it anit broke

Good luck with that. I would bet that once the money is in his hand, it's your block.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I agree, unless it is a close friend. And even then things can go bad for someone that is on hard times.

It would not be hard to check and see if its still standard bore if you have some stock 340 pistons laying around. What ever the max a 340 could be bored is, I would want aleast .020 left for a rebore incase you need it yourself. In other words if the max bore is .060 over then you would not want it to be bored more than .040. But if its a good block that is cheap buy it & they are getting hard to find. To find one with a good crank in it is even more so.

Just a heads up on cranks for 340's, the 318 of the same style has the exact same forged cranks if needed.

Jess

You can always clean it up and paint it, then E-bag it and use the $$$$ for a Slant.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

'73 340s were cast cranks.
Recommended max bore on most 340 is 4.070", anything more should have the cylinder walls sonic tested first to check thickness.
I'd pass on a rusty, or worse, pitted .020 over 340 block.
There are plenty of 360 motors out there, why mess with 20 less inches?

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Slant Cecil

cause it is period correct and a 340 is kinda rare around here

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if i cant fix it, it anit broke

The 340 and 360 were both options in 1971-1973 Mopars. In 1971 the 340 had 275hp and 10.5 comp. ratio. The 71 360 had 255hp and 8.7 comp. ratio. (Both engines with 4bbl. carbs.) In 1972 and 1973 these numbers were closer together. I owned a 1969 Dart 340. It was a screamer! I like the 340,but a 360 would be more available and cheaper to "build"as another poster indicated.The 340 is a winder, whereas the 360 is a stroker. What do you want? You could also get a small block HEMI crate engine! SMILE !!

340's can bring big bucks by people that are looking for a casting date. Talk him down on the price.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

True, sleeving cost a lot but with the availability of a 340 decreasing then this is a viable option if it is a 340 you want to run. Never said it would be cheap.

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