I have never build a motor from the ground up. What are the dos and don't about installing my rings, I spent to much mony on these pistion to mess it up by just wing it

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

i have always rolled mine on and off with a small flat top screw driver even though its not the proper way, you can use an exspander tool just for rings, it`s like a snap ring pliers that the ring ends are open up and slipped over the piston and in the groove.

Just use a little motor oil on the piston lands, and spread the rings apart with your thumbs. It is possible, it just hurts you fingers like crazy. But a little pain is cheaper than a tool.....unless your buddy has one. A toll is really best, as you decrease the risk of breaking a ring.
Getting the pistons down in the bore is a little harder....
Good luck!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Sheesh... I got my ring spreader for $10 I'm figuring it'll be around for the next 3 slant sixes..., plus if you don't get the ends over the lands by spreading them enough and scratch the piston (or if using moly rings and you accidently crack the coating off the ring)...

-D.Idiot

Don't forget to end gap the rings

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I never said it was easy....

If I did it again, I would surely buy a tool, for all the reasons you mentioned. As far as the ring gaps.....I had your run-of-the mill rings with my NAPA piston kit, and the rings were DEAD on. I was all ready to gap them, and then they were correct. I would still check ring gap with any and all gaps, even "custom" sets.

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

does it matter if the gaps line up or not. When I bought the pistions the made the rings too, I was told the they are "pre gaped". should I trust this gap or check it.

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

Check the gap in your bores......stagger the ring gaps on the piston.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

You should check the gap, stick the ring down in the cylinder it is going to be run in & us the piston to push it until its stright before checking the gap.

The ring pack should have a diagram that shows what place the gaps should be placed at on the pistons.

I always just spiral the rings on the pistons. Take it slow and easy & when you get close to the end of the ring you have to pull out just a little to get the end of the ring to go down over the piston. Just dont force it if it feels like anything is binding.


Jess

I spiral them too. Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I used a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I used a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

[/quote]

I spiral them too. Getting the ringed piston down the bore is a piece of cake, with or without a ring compressor. I use a wooden mallet back then, now I just have a delrin fetish so I usd a delrin hammer last time I assembled a motor.[/quote]



Yes, you are referring to putting the piston & rings in as a assy when installing for the build. What I am talking about is just stick the ring by itself in the bore & using the piston to square it up for checking the rings gap with the ring in the bore. Its all good though



Jess

what I mean is:
Now, that's more understandable, ain't?

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

just check my end gap it is set at .003, my manual say I should be at .010 to .020. Should I open them up? This pistions where build to run at 10:1 does that make a difference? One other thing correct me if I am wrong the chrome ring is the top ring then the iron ring right?

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225+0.080 at 10:1
268cam
holley 390
clifford headers
8 3/4 355's lsd
kh brakes
electronic ing

You definitely need to open them up. Look in the factory manual for the gap, but I think you will want at least 0.016" end gap for that application. I just set mine at 0.020-0.022".

I am almost positive the chrome ring is the top ring, but it should say in your ring pack instructions.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The end gap is important because as the rings heat up they expand, closing the gap. If the gap is too small the ends will meet which can lead to broken rings, broken pistons and cylinder damage. If the gap is too large you will get excessive blow-by and low compression. I would keep them in the upper half of the factory recommended range.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.