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 Post subject: A-Body dropped spindles?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 12:00 pm 
I did a search of the archives and only came up with a couple hits neither of which gave any details. I'm looking for dropped spindles for my '66 Dart. Would anyone have contact information for a specific vendor that sells such items?

culturevirus@mindspring.com


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 12:08 pm 
Quote:
: I did a search of the archives and only came up
: with a couple hits neither of which gave any
: details. I'm looking for dropped spindles
: for my '66 Dart. Would anyone have contact
: information for a specific vendor that sells
: such items?


good luck! i don't think anybody ever bothered with these since early mopars had adjustable ride height from the factory. i think fat man fabrications just came out with a drop spindle kit for the f-bodies mainly because that front end has fallen into favor with the street rod guys (they seem to like crap.)

-james

ludite13@cs.com


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:16 pm 
Quote:
: Try, Castlemaine Rod Shop, P.O. Box 349, Castlemaine, Victoria, 3450, Australia.

Phone, (03)5472 2853 Fax, (03)5472 1241
<A HREF="http://www.rodshop.com.au">www.rodshop.com.au</A>

I did a search of the archives and only came up
: with a couple hits neither of which gave any
: details. I'm looking for dropped spindles
: for my '66 Dart. Would anyone have contact
: information for a specific vendor that sells
: such items?


klove@bigpond.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 7:01 am 
Quote:
: Phone, (03)5472 2853 Fax, (03)5472 1241
: <A HREF="http://www.rodshop.com.au">www.rodshop.com.au</A>

*************************************************
Hmmm, it didn't show me the full quote....no matter.

Caulispud.....what might you know about these spindles?

I'm wondering if they're designed to replace the larger, (disc brake) upper ball joint spindle, or if they're for the smaller ball joint. I'm thinking along the lines of dual-use. Drop the nose of an A-body for drag use, AND update to disc brakes at the same time.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 7:14 am 
Quote:
: good luck! i don't think anybody ever bothered
: with these since early mopars had adjustable
: ride height from the factory. i think fat
: man fabrications just came out with a drop
: spindle kit for the f-bodies mainly because
: that front end has fallen into favor with
: the street rod guys (they seem to like
: crap.)
:
: -james


Thanks for the followup James. I've spent a fair amount of time in the air-cooled VW scene and I know that there is a compromise with just turning the torsion bars. I'm wanting to keep the car from "dolphining" down the road, i.e. I want near-full suspension travel if possible.I was hoping to get the spindles and do the disc brake conversion at the same time. One post to the board back in January stated that there were dropped spindles available in an ad from the (then) current issue of Mopar Collectors Guide. I was hoping someone might know who the vendor was.


culturevirus@mindspring.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 10:12 am 
James is right. The ad in February Mopar Coll. Guide pg13 is Fat Man Fabrications (704-545-0369). It's a two inch drop for the F-bodys. $415.00.

ceh52@quik.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 10:48 am 
Quote:
: James is right. The ad in February Mopar Coll.
: Guide pg13 is Fat Man Fabrications
: (704-545-0369). It's a two inch drop for the
: F-bodys. $415.00.


Forgive the Mopar newbie, but I'm assuming the F-Bodies have different spindles?


culturevirus@mindspring.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 12:52 pm 
Quote:
: Forgive the Mopar newbie, but I'm assuming the
: F-Bodies have different spindles?


They are, put with the risk of prompting a moparts style debate (with mopar magazine pundits even!), they will physically bolt to the A-body UCA and LCA. Wither this is a smart thing to do is open to a debate.

The F-body spindles are physically taller then the A-body spindles. This leads to geometery changes with the A-body setup.



klesteb@aol.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 1:52 pm 
Quote:
: I know that there is a compromise
: with just turning the torsion bars. I'm
: wanting to keep the car from
: "dolphining" down the road, i.e. I
: want near-full suspension travel if
: possible.I was hoping to get the spindles
: and do the disc brake conversion at the same
: time. One post to the board back in January
: stated that there were dropped spindles
: available in an ad from the (then) current
: issue of Mopar Collectors Guide.


I have not seen any drop spindles offered for the A-Body. (it would be nice if there were some out there)

It is possible to get the front suspension pretty low using the factory parts. One thing to do right off is to cut-down (shorten) the LCR "rebound bumpers" to allow more suspension travel before hitting the bumpers. Depending on the year, (67 & up are taller) doing this cutting can get you an additional 2 inches or so of travel which allows more drop before "dolphining". (bouncing off the LCR bumpers)

So... you say you want the car lower than that....
OK, here is a trick, I have cut the LCR bumper mounting pad-plate off the top of the control arm and notched-down the LCR's bumper pad - mounting plate area, then re-attached the mounting pad plate. (welding required) You can get another inch or so of travel into the system, same goes with the top "frame stop" that the bumper hits against but there is not much ground to be gained from that position. (another 1/4" or so)

Trouble with doing all this lowering is that the camber goes out as you continue to drop the ride height, to off-set this you need to get the off-set upper A-Arm bushings from Moog.

Using some of these tricks, I can get an A-Body K-Frame with in 3-4 inches of the pavement and still be 1/2 inch or so off the LCR bumpers. Now I have to get someone to lift up the car body while I try to slide the floor jack under it!

BTW, if you are drag racing, keep the small drum brakes, they are lighter and produce less drag then the disc set-up.
DD


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 12:58 am 
Quote:
: Hello Roger


I'me using the spindles on an Australian 1967 Chrysler Valiant (its a Mopar name game) custom car.
Fortunately I have access to a couple of local brothers who know everything about Australian Valiants, so I am putting disc brakes, anti roll bar, power rack and pinion, on the front, and a subframed Jaguar axle on the back.
The spindles come with individual numbers, stamped on them, and metalurgical samples, from when they have been tested.
Contact, Rod Hadfield, at the Castlemaine Rod Shop,he should be able to tell you, or find out, anything you want to know about the spindles.

Keith
: *************************************************
: Hmmm, it didn't show me the full quote....no
: matter.
:
: Caulispud.....what might you know about these
: spindles?
:
: I'm wondering if they're designed to replace
: the larger, (disc brake) upper ball joint
: spindle, or if they're for the smaller ball
: joint. I'm thinking along the lines of
: dual-use. Drop the nose of an A-body for
: drag use, AND update to disc brakes at the
: same time.
:
: Roger


klove@bigpond.com


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 7:08 am 
Quote:
: I have not seen any drop spindles offered for
: the A-Body. (it would be nice if there were
: some out there)
:
: It is possible to get the front suspension
: pretty low using the factory parts. One
: thing to do right off is to cut-down
: (shorten) the LCR "rebound
: bumpers" to allow more suspension
: travel before hitting the bumpers. Depending
: on the year, (67 & up are taller) doing
: this cutting can get you an additional 2
: inches or so of travel which allows more
: drop before "dolphining".
: (bouncing off the LCR bumpers)
:
: So... you say you want the car lower than
: that....
: OK, here is a trick, I have cut the LCR bumper
: mounting pad-plate off the top of the
: control arm and notched-down the LCR's
: bumper pad - mounting plate area, then
: re-attached the mounting pad plate. (welding
: required) You can get another inch or so of
: travel into the system, same goes with the
: top "frame stop" that the bumper
: hits against but there is not much ground to
: be gained from that position. (another
: 1/4" or so)
:
: Trouble with doing all this lowering is that
: the camber goes out as you continue to drop
: the ride height, to off-set this you need to
: get the off-set upper A-Arm bushings from
: Moog.
:
: Using some of these tricks, I can get an A-Body
: K-Frame with in 3-4 inches of the pavement
: and still be 1/2 inch or so off the LCR
: bumpers. Now I have to get someone to lift
: up the car body while I try to slide the
: floor jack under it!
:
: BTW, if you are drag racing, keep the small
: drum brakes, they are lighter and produce
: less drag then the disc set-up.
: DD


Thanks for the tips Doc. Those combined with another fine post (http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... done#10700) from awhile back will get me a lot further down the road on the front end rebuild/upgrade necessary for my '66 wagon. This will be a street cruiser/driver with some mild old skool mods.


culturevirus@mindspring.com[/url]


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