I thought the Pertronix ignition system I installed today would solve a couple of problems I've been having with the '69 225 engine, but after an initial "I think I got it," I appear to be back to square one.

I've already set the valves, gapped the new plugs correctly, installed new wires, new fuel pump, BBS Carb, filter, and sending unit. New vacuum and PVC hoses too. Even installed an electric choke.

Although I can twist the throttle when the engine is cold and see gas shoot into the carb, it is always necessary to crank the engine for a couple of moments to get it to fire up. Even then, it wants to die. After it starts I have to manipulate the throttle awhile until the engine runs smoothly. It warms up smoothly and no more problems until you put it in gear and try to drive off. At that point the engine acts like it wants to die. I tried to push harder on the gas to see if it would response, and it did pretty well. I didn't go so far as to floor it though, thinking that would kill the engine.

I noticed awhile ago, after reading the books Dan recommends for the past three hours, that the top front of the carb appears damp as if there is a leak from the area of the accelerator pump. Sort of got me thinking. When I first installed the carb I couldn't get the gas to enter the carb. In fact, when I pulled the fuel line off I heard the distinct sound of air being released. I think at the time, I lightly tapped the top of the carb and was able to get gas going into the carb. I'm wondering if the problem I am having might be related to the accelerator pump?

All the reading I have been doing, including a through search of this site, has left me terribly confused. Do any of you have a methodical checklist of how to proceed with interpreting and correcting the problems of: (a) frequent stalling during warmup, and (b) hesitation upon acceleration from a stop?

I am open to suggestions and help. Thank you in advance.

Install a new fuel inlet needle & seat in the carburetor, make sure the thick carb base gasket is installed and the heat riser valve works, dial-in more spring tension on your electric choke, and do the Fuel line mod.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Looking at your post these are a few things that you can check. Accelerator pump must be working as you said that you see a shot of fuel when moving the linkage. The wettness may be from the power valve. Clean everything and recheck in a few days for seepage. Check choke pull off setting. Sounds like you have some books to look at. Is the heat riser valve working ? Those two things are a must for proper warm up. Is the choke closing all the way when cold ? As most of us know slants are very cold blooded. I'm sorry, I hope you are talking about a 1 barrel set up. If you are, review your books on all settings. As always these are things that I would review and are only suggestions.

oops, now I saw that you have a BBS. Still everything that Dan said and I can be reviewed.

Thanks for the quick responses. Dan, I did the fuel line mod much earlier. I hope the situation can be corrected with the parts you suggested. New kit arrives in about an hour but I am off to work about that time. Might pull an all nighter when I get home.

Is the distributor's vacuum advance working?
Does the vacuum and mechanical advance come-in as the engine comes off idle and is given throttle?

Use a timing light to see if you are getting spark advance as the throttle is opened.
DD

Just caught this response as I was going out the door. Vacuum advance is working properly. Thanks

Often electronics can develop temperature-dependent problems, where it only works right when it warms up a few degrees, but not when it's cold, or vice versa. It can be a very hard to find problem.

You might just try to pre-warm your Pertronix module and just to eliminate that possibility. I once found that my MSD5 box produced only a very erratic spark until it warmed up, then would be fine, making starting nearly impossible.

I had a similar problem that beat me up for a month. It ended up bieng VERY Poor contacts (multiple) in the bulkhead connector at the firewall. I ended up wiggling the connector when the car was running and noted that the idle quality went from poor to stall. Opened up the connector and found a burnt nasty surprise. You might want to be sure your wiring is good. Oh yea are you sure that its not running lean ??? Had that cause a 2 week headache, 1/4 turn at a time (thanks SSD) and it idled well and accelerated well from a stop. Just some ideas....

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

Yikes! Perhaps I should've made myself clearer when I posted the carburetor adjustment procedure: You adjust the mixture needle 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle in at the new adjustment for a few seconds...that doesn't mean you're limited to one 1/4-turn adjustment per day!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan it didn't take 2 weeks to keep turning!! I was busy and instead of making large changes without documenting, i did minor adjustments and just drove with the stall for a few weeks. ,then after a moment of clarity i had 1 whole day to figure it out. it took 5 1/4 turn adjustments and paydirt. I assumed that the stall was a rich condition, boy was i wrong..... LMAO....... Too funny!

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day