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 Post subject: Valve Guide Seals
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2002 9:58 pm 
I might need to replace one or more valve guide seals on a 225, anyone replace a seal lately? If so... is it a difficult job? Can anyone clue me in briefly on what I might expect in order to replace vgs? The engine runs clean, but when going down hill using the gears I notice a small amount of blue smoke. Am I correct thinking it might be a seal? Thank you for any help, Bolt_Snypr


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 Post subject: Re: Valve Guide Seals
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 7:41 am 
Hey Bolt Snypr,

Valve seals, not really too big of a deal. I rarely would replace the seals w/o resizing the valve guides. You'd have to pull the head to do that. With an oil leak, you'll notice the engine smoking when you let off the throttle (while driving). With oil at a buck a quart, I really wouldn't worry about it until it got messy and started fouling plugs and such. A "puff" on startup could be almost anything.

If you really want to replace the seals...MP viton valve seals are PN P4120492. This is a pack of 16, so you get some extras in the deal. There are two sizes in the pack. the short one goes on the exhaust.

To replace the seals, you'll need to pull the valve springs. NAPA will sell you an inexpensive valve spring compressor for about $30 or 40. Pull the valve cover (new gasket), remove the rocker arm shaft and all of the spark plugs (need new plugs?). Work one cylinder at a time and stuff 1/8" cotton cord ( I dunno, maybe 6 or 8') into the spark plug hole. Leave it hanging out of the hole so you can pull it out when you're done. This will keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. You can also used compressed air if you have it. NAPA also has an air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. Bring the piston for that cylinder to TDC. Stop when you feel the piston mushing against the cotton cord. Pop off the springs and change the seals. Be careful not to drop the valve lock(s) After you put the springs back on, back off the piston and pull the cord out. Any cotton lint left behind will burn off as soon as you refire the engine. Before reinstalling the rocker arms, I usually bang the valve just a little with a rubber mallet just to be sure the valve locks are seated. I have seen them pop out before.

Since you're pulling the valve springs anyway, this may be a good time to install new springs. Just a thought. Also, it's probably a good time to go ahead and adjust the valves while you're at it.

Have fun. If you do get new plugs, seals, springs, adjust valves, etc who knows? It just might perk up your engine just a little bit.

Later,

Gilly

tlg225ccr@aol.com


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 Post subject: Re: Valve Guide Seals
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 2:56 pm 
Excellent reply, exactly the information I was hoping for. Thanks for taking the time to post it! I'll burn a copy and place it in my new valiant info folder. Just out of curiosity... will the will the parts (PN P4120492) work also for the 170?

Regards,
Bolt_Snypr
Quote:
:
: Valve seals, not really too big of a deal. I
: rarely would replace the seals w/o resizing
: the valve guides. You'd have to pull the
: head to do that. With an oil leak, you'll
: notice the engine smoking when you let off
: the throttle (while driving). With oil at a
: buck a quart, I really wouldn't worry about
: it until it got messy and started fouling
: plugs and such. A "puff" on
: startup could be almost anything.
:
: If you really want to replace the seals...MP
: viton valve seals are PN P4120492. This is a
: pack of 16, so you get some extras in the
: deal. There are two sizes in the pack. the
: short one goes on the exhaust.
:
: To replace the seals, you'll need to pull the
: valve springs. NAPA will sell you an
: inexpensive valve spring compressor for
: about $30 or 40. Pull the valve cover (new
: gasket), remove the rocker arm shaft and all
: of the spark plugs (need new plugs?). Work
: one cylinder at a time and stuff 1/8"
: cotton cord ( I dunno, maybe 6 or 8') into
: the spark plug hole. Leave it hanging out of
: the hole so you can pull it out when you're
: done. This will keep the valve from falling
: into the cylinder. You can also used
: compressed air if you have it. NAPA also has
: an air fitting that screws into the spark
: plug hole. Bring the piston for that
: cylinder to TDC. Stop when you feel the
: piston mushing against the cotton cord. Pop
: off the springs and change the seals. Be
: careful not to drop the valve lock(s) After
: you put the springs back on, back off the
: piston and pull the cord out. Any cotton
: lint left behind will burn off as soon as
: you refire the engine. Before reinstalling
: the rocker arms, I usually bang the valve
: just a little with a rubber mallet just to
: be sure the valve locks are seated. I have
: seen them pop out before.
:
: Since you're pulling the valve springs anyway,
: this may be a good time to install new
: springs. Just a thought. Also, it's probably
: a good time to go ahead and adjust the
: valves while you're at it.
:
: Have fun. If you do get new plugs, seals,
: springs, adjust valves, etc who knows? It
: just might perk up your engine just a little
: bit.
:
: Later,
:
: Gilly


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 Post subject: Re: Valve Guide Seals
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 8:54 pm 
Quote:
: Excellent reply, exactly the information I was
: hoping for. Thanks for taking the time to
: post it! I'll burn a copy and place it in my
: new valiant info folder. Just out of
: curiosity... will the will the parts (PN
: P4120492) work also for the 170?
: Regards,
: Bolt_Snypr


170, 198, 225, they all use the same basic head. For the most part, all the parts and gaskets interchange.
DD


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 Post subject: Re: Thanx! nt
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2002 8:24 am 
Quote:
: 170, 198, 225, they all use the same basic
: head. For the most part, all the parts and
: gaskets interchange.
: DD


Thanks DD!


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