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 Post subject: valve lash
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 5:31 pm 
I would like to set valve lash on my 225 in my 65 dart, as it sounds like a sewing machine, I have been unable to find a setting or if it is set hot or cold. I would also like information on your publication,and is thier a place I can also find a engine manual for my motor and or car. Thank You Peter A Stone 1965 dart gt

mudboy@iglou.com


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 Post subject: Re: valve lash
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2002 5:37 pm 
Quote:
: I would like to set valve lash on my 225 in my
: 65 dart, as it sounds like a sewing machine,
: I have been unable to find a setting or if
: it is set hot or cold. I would also like
: information on your publication,and is thier
: a place I can also find a engine manual for
: my motor and or car. Thank You Peter A Stone
: 1965 dart gt


If I remember right, it .010 thousands. I used to set it with the engine running, warm. The screws are self locking, no locknuts so it is easy. Just slip the feeler gage in and turn it till you feel a slight drag when the valve is closed, you will feel the gage stuck when the valve is open.Takes longer to remove and install the cover than to adjust.

t4444@ids.net


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 Post subject: Re: valve lash
PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2002 9:06 pm 
Quote:
: I would like to set valve lash on my 225 in my
: 65 dart, as it sounds like a sewing machine,
: I have been unable to find a setting or if
: it is set hot or cold. I would also like
: information on your publication,and is thier
: a place I can also find a engine manual for
: my motor and or car. Thank You Peter A Stone
: 1965 dart gt


The proper valve lash setting is .010 on the intakes and .020 on the exhaust valves, hot.

Here are some other general adjustment tips:

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't "snap loose" and move by 80 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence and torque to 70 ft lbs. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

I do my adjustment with the engine running, so turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor or driveway to stay clean!)

I start with the intake valves, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifold runners to guide you.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust valves are set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct.

When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want to try to "sneek-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "consept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.
DD


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